Banshee ignition help please help!!!

[Budget_Blaster]

Ok im at a stand still here and am unsure of what to do.

I went to fire the shee up and ran into issues.About every 20+ kicks it would start to fire then stop so i started by testing the spark by grounding a plug to the head stud its intermittent.So i broke out the DVOM and manual and got some interesting readings.

First the primary resistance on the coil varies to just in spec at 0.28-.020 so it shows bad according to the manual,and secondary shows nothing i cant get a reading this was after 4 different meters ranging from an el cheapo up to a fluke all the same.

Second the source coil showed 48.0 and specs between 13.7-20.5 so that showes bad.

Third the pick up coil specs at 94-140 and i get 78 so it too showes bad.

Ok my question is how in the hell do all these things go bad from sitting on a shelf in a box for two months?This thing ran great when i got it and started first kick every time i just dont get it.I had the DVOM set correctly (200ohms setting) yet all the ignition shows bad i dont get it.

So before i go spend hundreds on a new ignition system wtf is up?Like i said it ran before i rebuilt it so im hoping its an error on my part.

If you pull the plug and ground it on the head it will spark every 10-20'ish kicks im stumped.

 

[Awk08]

gotta ask........
have you tried new plugs ?
are the frame grounds good...on clean bare metal, not on top of freshly painted frame ?
i'd also ohm out the kill switches too.... key and thumb
and re-check all connections for good connection
i'm assuming the tors has been eliminated correctly ?

some of us have had similar results testing these blaster electrical components, some read "bad" ohms, when in fact they are not ???
(notice in the manual it says "at 68 degrees F ?)

on the blasters i check the orange wire going to the coil with a 12v test light
if it shows pulse, when kicking the bike over, then assume the problem lies in the coil/plug wire/boot/plug.
check that black wire is grounded good/clean also
if no pulse on this coil wire, check the wire providing the pulse to the cdi with the 12v test light, if this wire has pulse, assume the cdi is bad

 

[mmajay]

I been threw the same thing your going threw before. First let me say that many times when you check ignition parts they will show bad and for what reaon i have no clue and others on here has had the same problem of ohm meter not reading like it should even if the parts are good. Of course the ground is important as well as the coil,pickup plug,stator and cdi. The only way i figured mine out was to start swapping known good parts for each item i mentioned until i found out it was a weak stator. I now have collected a complete ignition to trouble shoot with. Might sound like an expensive way to do it but it beat me chaseing my tail. I know for fact others who own banshees as well as blasters have done what i have done as well as used my parts to trouble shoot with. Clean all ground areas real good before anything.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Have also seen some mention that even tho parts ohm out of spec they still work. Not saying it's your problem, but on my son's I had to clean the poles on stator and timing nubs, set gap to cure one sided miss. Beside grounds also check connections in wireing, clean and tight, maybe add die electric grease. IIRC, test procedure for secondary is erronious, have to check plug wire to plug wire. Consider new plug caps, or at least trim plug wires 1/4" for fresh connection. Have you checked voltage to CDI while kicking? Is TORS and parking brake disabled?

Different subject, but did you check pipes for mouse house before installing? Not related to this problem, but might be next.

 

[Surfrjag]

are the stator and cdi oem units? i would recomend oem components. it doesnt hurt to have spares anyways...

 

[Budget_Blaster]

Ok guys as for frame i had all the holes plugged off and tapped for powder coating but ive not removed any i didnt have to on my blaster.i have brand new plugs 3 sets all new.fresh gas filter fluids the whole nine and i didnt overlook any newbie stuff lol.

The spark is some times i can get it to spark here and there but nothing consistent.

I have another tech buddy with a different meter coming out monday evening to give it a once over he builds busas and highend high powered crotch rockets so i hope he can help me get it straight.

As for the parts testing bad but being good idk if this is that case but what gets me iscthe damned thing ran prior to tearing it all down so i hope it is in fact something idiotic.

 

[Awk08]

As for the parts testing bad but being good idk if this is that case but what gets me iscthe damned thing ran prior to tearing it all down so i hope it is in fact something idiotic.

frame grounds must be sanded bare where the ground ring touches the frame, not rely on the bolt/threads to do it !!!

 

[Larry's Shee]

frame grounds must be sanded bare where the ground ring touches the frame, not rely on the bolt/threads to do it !!!

Sad but true. Put some dielectric grease on it, it won't rust and will conduct electricity. There is also a ground for the CDI at the back of the frame, right by cdi, unless you have relocated it from stock. Also coil must have bare contact/ground where it mounts.

 

[Awk08]

Sad but true. Put some dielectric grease on it, it won't rust and will conduct electricity. There is also a ground for the CDI at the back of the frame, right by cdi, unless you have relocated it from stock. Also coil must have bare contact/ground where it mounts.

/\/\/\ all of that !!!!!!
PC insulating your grounds, more than likely the problem

 

[Budget_Blaster]

Ok guys ill get on it but where are all the grounds located?

do all the electrical componets need bare contact when they mount up?

Like i said this is kinda odd because ive done plenty of powdercoated frames on bikes quads dirtbikes and so on and never did any more than tap the threads and use the bolts as grounds but obviously theres a first time for everything.So where are all the grounds?

Pics would be great the manuals kinda vague.

 

[Surfrjag]

there is a ground wire near the cdi, the coil itself, and the motor to the frame. i think that should be it. i have seen an intermitant spark be a failed cdi...

 

[Budget_Blaster]

there is a ground wire near the cdi, the coil itself, and the motor to the frame. i think that should be it. i have seen an intermitant spark be a failed cdi...

Yea pics would be great bro i got one ground wire on that whole harn ess near the cdi in the rear.So unless i get pics im F'ed in the A.

I ordered a whole new ignition the other night with the programable cdi i think its called a rev box and stator along with a ricky stator coil so its all new.Now i know itll be a ground or in my wiring (i doubt its my wiring its very nice and pretty lol).

If any of you shee owners could snap pics id really appreciate it.

 

[Surfrjag]

If i was home i would take s pic of that one ground wire mounted to the frame under the voltage regulator. Then another where the coil mounts and another where the motor bolts to the frame. I think its you cdi but i also recomended a oem cdi and coil. O well

 

[Larry's Shee]

X2 on oem coil, cdi, AND stator. DON"T pitch them

 

[Surfrjag]

Also what is you pickup gap

 

[Budget_Blaster]

.015 on the gap as the manual says.

yea if you could snap pics bro thatd help alot.

 

[Surfrjag]

Sure ill be home in about 2 weeks.. its not that difficult really. Do you see where the regulator bolts? Put the black wire with the metal peice on the end that has a hole in it in the bolt. Then remove your coil and clean the frame where it mounts. Replace your stator if that doesnt work them cdi if that doesnt work. Report back

 

[Paulie B]

I been threw the same thing your going threw before. First let me say that many times when you check ignition parts they will show bad and for what reaon i have no clue and others on here has had the same problem of ohm meter not reading like it should even if the parts are good. Of course the ground is important as well as the coil,pickup plug,stator and cdi. The only way i figured mine out was to start swapping known good parts for each item i mentioned until i found out it was a weak stator. I now have collected a complete ignition to trouble shoot with. Might sound like an expensive way to do it but it beat me chaseing my tail. I know for fact others who own banshees as well as blasters have done what i have done as well as used my parts to trouble shoot with. Clean all ground areas real good before anything.

This is how I troubleshoot things also. Sure makes things alot easier and faster.

 

[Budget_Blaster]

Ok i completely removed the ignition recleaned the stator plate,replaced the stator and pick up coil,cleaned the rear mount of powder coat for the ground,took the coil off and completely ground down the powder coat there as well as cleaned the metal on the coil so i know i got good grounds now and i got it spark maybe 3 times out of 20 kicks.

One of the times it sparked i was holding it and it sent a healthy spark says my left hand but its starting to piss me off!This is f**king ridiculous!I hate wiring issues!

I got a new cdi rev box on its way along with a new coil so if after these parts i cant get spark i havent a clue wtf to check next?

 

[Budget_Blaster]

Ok went out tore the harness all the way down again to see if i over looked something all is good.

I did start looking at the stator/pick up coil and had red/white wire that was frayed and barely attatched.Upon looking at it and barely moving it i find the wire breaks off in my hand so thats definately an issue.But ive eliminated that whole stator and pick up coil assembly so id think if that was it id have spark and i dont.

Can this wire have caused issues further in the system?I doubt it but ive been wrong before.

I grabbed a couple feet of fine strand 10g automotive amp wire from a buddy and plan to make a couple ground straps from the engine/coil and engine/fram.My new cdi and ignition coil should be here in a day or so if after all this it dont fire im up sh*t creek!