Bad Noises....

York Racing

New Member
Apr 3, 2010
1,766
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Pennsylvania
So as I knew before, at least the clutch plates and springs are bad on my Blaster. But I never really found out why they went bad. I looked at the oil level tiday and as it turns out, someone drained the oil out of my bottom end. I think I know who it was so payments not an issue but today I refilled the bottom end and I took it for a test ride. But after two laps around the yard it was still smoking badly and the side case started making shearing and clicking noises. So I figure it's the plates. So would the Moose Racing kit with steel plates, new friction plates, and HD racing springs. Would this fix my problem?
 
You won't know for sure until you get in there, but just how bad was that smoke? It is very possible that your engine has a bad crankshaft seal on the clutch side. If this is the case, the crankcase vacuum from the engine will suck oil out of the gearbox and burn it, causing a huge cloud of smoke. I've experienced this first-hand, and it's not pretty.

The Moose clutch kit should fix your problem IF only the clutch plates are bad. Check your clutch basket carefully for wear and dress it as needed. Find out why the oil disappeared; I have a feeling the engine is sucking it out. If you don't fix the vanishing oil problem, you're gonna burn up whatever new clutch you reinstall.
 
If you're burning tranny oil it will look like this. I had a cracked case but same difference, still burned tranny oil.
Picture.jpg

 
Wow guys thanks for all the feedback. =] I dug into it today and I'm pleased with the results. I found that the noise was coming from a bad foward idler gear with too much play. But luckily I caught it before it did any damage and there were no metal shards in the oil. But I noticed that the clutch basket had back and forth play. Is this bad? And also the little piece of metal on the clutch cover with the sirclip has play. I believe it has something to do with the oil block off but I'm not 100% sure. And as for the oil, I thought the same thing. How difficult is it to change crank seals and bearings? I figure while I'm in there I might as well change the bearings too.
 
Crank seals are easy to change, but make sure you replace the bushing when you change the seal on the right side. no need to split the cases to change the seals.
See the DIY section on how to make your own flywheel holder so you can remove the nuts.

But make sure you test the crank bearings before you put it together, make sure there is no play in the crank. if you can feel or hear any, replace them to
Make sure you do a leak down test before you run it

As for the clutch basket and counter shaft gears... these are three piece gears with dampeners and riveted together.
Remove the countershaft gear and set it on a vice or anvil and re-peen the rivets with a hammer until the gear assy it tight again.
You can sometimes do this with the clutch as well with a punch but usually the clutch basket rivet holes are worn and not much you can do about it. peen them as much as you can and leave it.
 
Yeah well I think I'm just going into total over haul mode. I think Im going to throw in new crank seals, bushings, and bearings along with a new head gasket, new rings (mine are only 2 months old) and end by polishing the ports and the piston. And as for the gears, I'm putting in a new foward idler with possibly a new clutch kit. Gotta love these Blasters.