Autolube pump question

Thanks, ill try do it tomoro. P.s im from south africa, we dont really have "premium" fuel, all we can buy at the pumps is 93 or 95 octane fuel (not sure which standard they measure the octane by here). Is a higher octane level necessary with the low compression levels on the blaster?
 
DLK666 said:
Thanks, ill try do it tomoro. P.s im from south africa, we dont really have "premium" fuel, all we can buy at the pumps is 93 or 95 octane fuel (not sure which standard they measure the octane by here). Is a higher octane level necessary with the low compression levels on the blaster?
Click to expand...

Yamaha says to run "premium fuel" with a blaster. Premium where I'm at, is 91 octane,so if you have 93 to 95 octane,you are getting better stuff than me. Your good to go!
 
DLK666 said:
sigh, the smoke is so little, thats what worries me, it seemed more before i put on the new exhaust(i rejetted to a #290) seems to be running fine, i doubt ill be air/fuel lean, but the low amount of smoke is worrying me(its a very small amount).
Click to expand...

What two stroke oil are you running in the tank? There are alot of "low smoke-low ash" two stroke oils out there. Perhaps your running one of these?
 
joeak47 said:
What two stroke oil are you running in the tank? There are alot of "low smoke-low ash" two stroke oils out there. Perhaps your running one of these?
Click to expand...

Im not sure what oil im using right now, i had another blaster which used pre mix, now i bought this new bike and im still using the oil that came with it. Im planning on using castrol synthetic 2T oil in the future.
 
joeak47 said:
First off,for the record....
the yamaha "Autolube" oil injection system is a wonderful,well thought out,and RELIABLE system. Convenient too! My buddy has a 91 blaster that he purchased new and rides on a regular basis,that is still running the original, factory "autolube" oil injection system. Its also only on its 1st over bore in 21 years!!! 9 Years before it was bored to the first over size! YES THE SYSTEM WORKS!
I went back to using the "autolube" oil injection system after taking it off momentarily to play with different pre-mix oils,and fuel to oil ratios. I'm glad I put it back on. Zero issues what so ever,and I'm running a ported cylinder,rechambered head,etc,etc. If your blaster ever quits working,it will most likely be from a different source,or issue.
You mentioned that you heared,that the oil pumps fail. Don't believe everything you hear. I'm still trying to find where this has happend. I too have "heared" it,but never seen it. You know how stories go. Very little facts if any,and lots of he said/she said stuff.
If you want to check to see if its working,try this easy method...
Drain the fuel tank and float bowl of regular fuel,and put in a few cups of "pre-mixed" fuel into the tank. This is only a test,so you won't need much.
Now remove the oil injection line from the side of the carb. There is a small metal "cuff" that you will have to slide back onto the line,so you can pull the oil injection line off the nipple of the carb.
Now put the end of the oil line that you just pulled off of the carb into a small jar to catch the oil that will come out when the engine is running.
Now start your blaster,and get down close to the oil line you pulled off and "Watch" how it works. You will see that it "pulses" the oil in a very small quantity out the end of the line (let it drip into that little cup).
Now "Watch" how it works as you rev the engine...See how it "pulses" the oil at a faster rate? If you see this,you will know that it is working.
Now plug the oil line back onto the nipple on the carb,slide the metal "cuff" over the end of the line to lock it in place,drain your fuel,and put in fresh premium pump fuel in the tank.
After that,... read this>>> http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...o-lube-oil-injection-why-because-works-51335/

Now all you have to do is keep the oil tank full and ride! The "Auto Lube" system will take care of everything else.
The "Auto lube" oil injection system gets blamed for engine failures by dummies that don't put oil in the oil tank. VERY,VERY,VERY seldom has it ever been an issue with the system. 99% of the time its operator error. You know... like adding oil to the tank "After" it goes dry. Sorry,but that doesn't work. its almost a "see through" tank. No excuse for not filling it. The cap is under the seat.
If you ever have to bleed the system its a simple as removing one screw on the oil pump to let the air bubble out,then re-installing the screw. You should do this if the bike was flipped over,or if you removed,and then re-installed the system (like I did).
Click to expand...

I just did your test, seems to be fine, would you pls check out this video just to see if it looks okay:
. Would be much appriciated, anyone ever considered putting a clear plastic tube from the pump to the carb? This way you could see air bubbles and oil flow? P.s thanks for the advice everyone
 
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Hey their is a cheaper way to stop the oil inject system.Take the case off thats hides it.Then take the 2 screw off that hold it to the motor.When off take the screw out that hold injecter together.After you do that take the gear out of it.Put it back together without the gear a little yamaha bond on the gasket or a new gasket. Put it back on and bolt everything back together Take your lines off and oil tank and your good to go without having to buy a kit to block it off.Works fine ive seen a couple Blastesr owners do this .Also saves you buying a new clutch gasket.Its all still their but no gear so it doesnt spin the pump no more.Im not talking about the plastic gear that behind the clutch.The gear that is inside the oil inject system.Also you have to block the line thats goes into the carb so it doesnt suck air their and get dirt in the motor .Their ways to do it.But that is up to you or anyone else how to do it.What work best for you basically. You block the tube line or get a little cap for it how ever its work the best for you.
 
Last edited:
joeak47 said:
First off,for the record....
the yamaha "Autolube" oil injection system is a wonderful,well thought out,and RELIABLE system. Convenient too! My buddy has a 91 blaster that he purchased new and rides on a regular basis,that is still running the original, factory "autolube" oil injection system. Its also only on its 1st over bore in 21 years!!! 9 Years before it was bored to the first over size! YES THE SYSTEM WORKS!
I went back to using the "autolube" oil injection system after taking it off momentarily to play with different pre-mix oils,and fuel to oil ratios. I'm glad I put it back on. Zero issues what so ever,and I'm running a ported cylinder,rechambered head,etc,etc. If your blaster ever quits working,it will most likely be from a different source,or issue.
You mentioned that you heared,that the oil pumps fail. Don't believe everything you hear. I'm still trying to find where this has happend. I too have "heared" it,but never seen it. You know how stories go. Very little facts if any,and lots of he said/she said stuff.
If you want to check to see if its working,try this easy method...
Drain the fuel tank and float bowl of regular fuel,and put in a few cups of "pre-mixed" fuel into the tank. This is only a test,so you won't need much.
Now remove the oil injection line from the side of the carb. There is a small metal "cuff" that you will have to slide back onto the line,so you can pull the oil injection line off the nipple of the carb.
Now put the end of the oil line that you just pulled off of the carb into a small jar to catch the oil that will come out when the engine is running.
Now start your blaster,and get down close to the oil line you pulled off and "Watch" how it works. You will see that it "pulses" the oil in a very small quantity out the end of the line (let it drip into that little cup).
Now "Watch" how it works as you rev the engine...See how it "pulses" the oil at a faster rate? If you see this,you will know that it is working.
Now plug the oil line back onto the nipple on the carb,slide the metal "cuff" over the end of the line to lock it in place,drain your fuel,and put in fresh premium pump fuel in the tank.
After that,... read this>>> http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...o-lube-oil-injection-why-because-works-51335/

Now all you have to do is keep the oil tank full and ride! The "Auto Lube" system will take care of everything else.
The "Auto lube" oil injection system gets blamed for engine failures by dummies that don't put oil in the oil tank. VERY,VERY,VERY seldom has it ever been an issue with the system. 99% of the time its operator error. You know... like adding oil to the tank "After" it goes dry. Sorry,but that doesn't work. its almost a "see through" tank. No excuse for not filling it. The cap is under the seat.
If you ever have to bleed the system its a simple as removing one screw on the oil pump to let the air bubble out,then re-installing the screw. You should do this if the bike was flipped over,or if you removed,and then re-installed the system (like I did).
Click to expand...

Thanks, heres a video of the test i did, does it look okay?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ajaysblaster said:
Hey their is a cheaper way to stop the oil inject system.Take the case off thats hides it.Then take the 2 screw off that hold it to the motor.When off take the screw out that hold injecter together.After you do that take the gear out of it.Put it back together without the gear a little yamaha bond on the gasket or a new gasket. Put it back on and bolt everything back together Take your lines off and oil tank and your good to go without having to buy a kit to block it off.Works fine ive seen a couple Blastesr owners do this .Also saves you buying a new clutch gasket.Its all still their but no gear so it doesnt spin the pump no more.Im not talking about the plastic gear that behind the clutch.The gear that is inside the oil inject system.Also you have to block the line thats goes into the carb so it doesnt suck air their and get dirt in the motor .Their ways to do it.But that is up to you or anyone else how to do it.What work best for you basically. You block the tube line or get a little cap for it how ever its work the best for you.
Click to expand...

Why remove the system in the first place? It a good system!
However,here is the cheapest way to delete it without removing it...Loop the to nipples...

100_4083.jpg
 
Im new to blaster but have owned many oil injected Yamahas never had a problem ran my 1985 yt 125 10 years no problem just bought a blaster,owner has been mixing with no block off kit do not know if this is good or not.
 
bmoore said:
Im new to blaster but have owned many oil injected Yamahas never had a problem ran my 1985 yt 125 10 years no problem just bought a blaster,owner has been mixing with no block off kit do not know if this is good or not.
Click to expand...

Just test it using joes method. If it works, use the pump, if not premixI:I
 
joeak47 said:
How about a short video showing us what it looks like after its warmed up?

Did you test it as I suggested earlier in this thread? Its easy to do.

Here ya go again just in case you missed it...


First off,for the record....
the yamaha "Autolube" oil injection system is a wonderful,well thought out,and RELIABLE system. Convenient too! My buddy has a 91 blaster that he purchased new and rides on a regular basis,that is still running the original, factory "autolube" oil injection system. Its also only on its 1st over bore in 21 years!!! 9 Years before it was bored to the first over size! YES THE SYSTEM WORKS!
I went back to using the "autolube" oil injection system after taking it off momentarily to play with different pre-mix oils,and fuel to oil ratios. I'm glad I put it back on. Zero issues what so ever,and I'm running a ported cylinder,rechambered head,etc,etc. If your blaster ever quits working,it will most likely be from a different source,or issue.
You mentioned that you heared,that the oil pumps fail. Don't believe everything you hear. I'm still trying to find where this has happend. I too have "heared" it,but never seen it. You know how stories go. Very little facts if any,and lots of he said/she said stuff.
If you want to check to see if its working,try this easy method...
Drain the fuel tank and float bowl of regular fuel,and put in a few cups of "pre-mixed" fuel into the tank. This is only a test,so you won't need much.
Now remove the oil injection line from the side of the carb. There is a small metal "cuff" that you will have to slide back onto the line,so you can pull the oil injection line off the nipple of the carb.
Now put the end of the oil line that you just pulled off of the carb into a small jar to catch the oil that will come out when the engine is running.
Now start your blaster,and get down close to the oil line you pulled off and "Watch" how it works. You will see that it "pulses" the oil in a very small quantity out the end of the line (let it drip into that little cup).
Now "Watch" how it works as you rev the engine...See how it "pulses" the oil at a faster rate? If you see this,you will know that it is working.
Now plug the oil line back onto the nipple on the carb,slide the metal "cuff" over the end of the line to lock it in place,drain your fuel,and put in fresh premium pump fuel in the tank.
After that,... read this>>> Yamaha Blaster Forum - The #1 Community For Yamaha Blaster Owners!

Now all you have to do is keep the oil tank full and ride! The "Auto Lube" system will take care of everything else.
The "Auto lube" oil injection system gets blamed for engine failures by dummies that don't put oil in the oil tank. VERY,VERY,VERY seldom has it ever been an issue with the system. 99% of the time its operator error. You know... like adding oil to the tank "After" it goes dry. Sorry,but that doesn't work. its almost a "see through" tank. No excuse for not filling it. The cap is under the seat.
If you ever have to bleed the system its a simple as removing one screw on the oil pump to let the air bubble out,then re-installing the screw. You should do this if the bike was flipped over,or if you removed,and then re-installed the system (like I did).
Click to expand...

Heres a vid of how it smokes, first as startup, then after the jump shows the smoke after being ridden for a like 5 minutes: Blaster smoke with autolube pump - YouTube
 
bmoore said:
Im new to blaster but have owned many oil injected Yamahas never had a problem ran my 1985 yt 125 10 years no problem just bought a blaster,owner has been mixing with no block off kit do not know if this is good or not.
Click to expand...

Before you go and use an unknown system and take it on a "wing and a prayer" that its good to go. Inspect EVERYTHING! Is the tank there? Does the tank have a hole in it? Is the tank "CLEAN" on the INSIDE? Are the oil lines there and connected? Is the oil cap there,or has this blaster been ridden for the last ten years with no cap? Is the oil pump there? The oil pump NEEDS TO BE "BLED" (just like brakes on a car) to remove any air bubbles. Only then can you use it.

ALSO: Pick up a service manual for your bike. Its good to have for reference. A wealth of information.
 
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