Assembled a blaster, won't shut off!

moppymcjones86

moppymcjones86

New Member
Feb 28, 2011
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White Bear Lk.
Hello everyone! I just bought a 89 blaster in complete pieces and assembled everything besides plastics basically. I am pretty sure i hooked up all the wiring correctly. I can start it and it runs, but hooboy it does not shut off. The kill-switch and key will not work to turn off. What would cause it to run without having the kill-switch or key working? Also, the lights work. Things that would help me... is there only two grounds/ where do they go exactly? All the wires should go to the ones that are color coded the same right?

I just realized that two wires coming fro the motor are identical to me along with there plugs on the harness, maybe I'll switch those around and try again?

p.s. So the oil is actually just gravity fed into the pump? Cause that aint working so well

thanks, Mike
 
I would check for an airleak. There's a link in my sig with instruction for that.
The best idea is to remove the oil pump and run premix 32/1.
 
Welcome, man! Yeah, there's not much love around here for the Blaster oil injection system. Yes, it is gravity fed. No, it doesn't work too well. You can get a blockoff kit from Vito's Performance for $ 29.99 + shipping that gets rid of the whole works. The system works fine when it is properly-bled and good, clean oil flows to the pump, but let's face it, this is the real world. Air and debris gets in the oil lines, and you've got problems. Put on a blockoff kit, don't forget to drain all the regular gas outta the tank, and run 32:1 premix. You'll never worry about lube again.

With regards to the kill switch question, the wiring harness on a Blaster uses a common ground. There should be a ring terminal which grounds out against one leg of the ignition coil. All the grounds on the bike are tied into this circuit, except the one for the headlights. I'd be willing to bet that this wire is broken or disconnected, hence no kill switch.

You will see a black wire with a white chaser (stripe) coming out of the CDI box. This is your ignition kill wire. The solid black wires in the harness (no chaser) are your grounds. You must ground the black/white wire off the CDI to kill the ignition. Hope that helps. I:I
 
Ya, I'm just going to remove the oil injection system. Seems pretty easy and i like mixing my own gas anyways so I know what it's at for sure.


Well I couldn't get it started today, I have a feeling it's too cold. Still gotta try switching those wires around. Is the cdi box up front by the lights? there's a wire that's black with a white stripe coming out but its plugged right into the harness. And the lights work so I'm guessing that ground is good. The other ground is under the coil. There's still a spark with it shutoff, yet i didn't check spark with those engine wires switched yet... :( tomorrow!
 
Aghhh, I am starting to hate this thing. Can't get it started for the life of me. How picky are these things if you flood them? The carb looks all wet inside yet when I take the plug off like no gas shoots out. Can the plug be bad even if it is sparking correctly with these things? I've never had so much trouble, even with my cr500 and yz125 flood the sh*t out of them and just crank for like 10 times and it pops over...
 
You're not gonna have too much trouble with flooding. It should start once cleared out... If the carb's wet and you have fire, but it still won't start, check your reed cage. The reeds must lay flat on the cage and have no damage. Just be patient with it; these engines aren't complicated and, once you figure it out, you'll be running well for awhile. Bad reeds will keep it from firing.
 
ok, thanks. I mean we just had it running the other day. I just shot starting fluid in and it started after like 4 kicks. Would the reeds go bad just like that in a day? It was sitting for like 5 years before this i was told.
Just removed the tors system with that video, took like 5 mins. thanks. It still sparks with it shut off though... and all the wires look good with the tape off. Tis gotta be a switch, cdi box or magneto?

This is kinda funny, I've never ever had a problem where there was too much spark and wouldn't stop. Mostly there is a problem when there's none.
 
Lol, I know, right? Since you have fire, you're just not able to lose it when you flip the handlebar switch. I'd check all the wires again, and remember that the black one with the white stripe (coming off the CDI box) has to be grounded for the engine to shut off. Worst case scenario, install a simple push-button kill switch up on the handlebars. Wire it into this black/white wire from the CDI box and you'll be good to go. Or rather stop! lol

Yes, it is possible for the reeds to fail suddenly. Especially if they have been sitting and were already questionable before the quad was put in storage long ago. It doesn't take long to check them, and I bet you'll find at least one bent way out or even broken.
 
Ok, we got it started i bought a brand new plug even though they both spark the same, also better starting fluid. Found out kill switch is broke inside, working on that now. So I'm guessing the other switch is bad too.. aghhh.


Is it supposed to blow air/gas out of carb if we have just the can on and no filter... also it's really flooded maybe that's why? Were gonna check the reeds after we fix the switches.
 
OK... So... Reeds aren't the greatest, one has a gap but not huge. Both switches were bad, fixed that. Tors gone, oil injection gone. Just have to buy reeds tomorrow and wahla!


But... I have one more question. Does something hold the back brake rotor in place? cause i don't have anything to keep it there besides just sitting in the caliper. Does anyone have pictures of the brake rotor close up?
 
If it's flooding or looking really wet, you probably need to set the float height. Or even replace the float needle. You can get a carb rebuild kit off ebay for like $16 with a needle, gasket and a couple other items that's worth doing on a bike that's sat for 5 yrs. Float height from the gasket seat to the bottom of tne float should be 21mm.
 
This happened to mine the first time I started it, but it almost blew up then I cut the gas though. Then I rewired it and it worked perfectly :)
 
Ok, Well I got it completely together and it runs good. Put a little bit bigger jet in it and went through the carb. On to go cart mower project...

where do you enter the signatures in profile edit?
 
hmm, umm well it says edit profile among other stuff but it seriously does not say anywhere edit signature.... lol

I can take a pic of the edit buttons to prove it.



Well I found in the faq an edit signatures button but apparently I'm not allowed a signature is what it told me.
 
Last edited:
moppymcjones86 said:
But... I have one more question. Does something hold the back brake rotor in place? cause i don't have anything to keep it there besides just sitting in the caliper. Does anyone have pictures of the brake rotor close up?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I didn't notice this when I responded earlier (and apparently, no one else did either) The rear brake hub "floats" on the splines.
 
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