Anyone know car audio? need some help

yeah im just sayin... go with a solid reliable 2-12in setup and a good amp and you will be plenty loud....trust me....and yes there is waaaaaay more to being loud than sub size and watts haha...I have 2 alpine type R 10's in my Audi TT and and a 800 watts rms and it is louder than 90% of the systems ive heard....why? cause its done right, i.e. ZERO flex in my hand laid fiberglass enclosure, airtightness, actually knowing what frequency your subs are meant to operate at and tuning you box to it, air space and knowing whether to port it or not....its not just a huge amp and sub game guys...brains are good too. oh an ps if you have over 3x the wattage to your lows as you do highs, then you arent listening to music...your just trying to get attention haha...to each his own

all true... My buddy ran 2 15" JL Audios powered by a 200W PPi amp and this thing sounded awesome you would of though it was 800+w, but nope just a quality amp pushing 200w.
 
I had 2 10" Alpine Type Rs IN my integra with a 1200 watt amp and it pounded over so many peoples 12s or 15's. its all about how you build the box and tune it. 15 and 18 inch subs give more of a rumbling bass that I dont like. I like a nice crisp clean hit of 10s. The single 10 that I have in my dodge running off of a 400 watt amp pounds. A lot of people think I have multiple subs like 2 12 or 2 10s.

Just my opinion on things. Remember the more amps and speakers that you throw in your car the more things that are there to break. It is much easier to have a very simple clean sounding system in the end.
 
hey man, i have a MTX amp that i might part with , i have the birth sheet for it to
i got it from a guy in ontario that was a MTX dealer about 2 years ago at future shop it was over 1000 i paid 750 cash on delivery brand new in box.
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Is that a Digital Design coffee table?
 
All the advice these guys have given is pretty dead on. Bigger is not always better.
A pair of 10s, pair of 12s, or a solo 15 should be about all you'd want in a daily driver. if you're building a competition buggy, go crazy with the 18s and mega amps.

I'm 33 now, and started into the car audio scene back when it was cool to put a pair of tower speakers from your house in the trunk. (Yup, I'm that old. LOL Anyone else remember those days? lol) I have had various systems over the years, and my favorite system in my daily driver was in my 96 Stratus. It consisted of:
Infinity Kappa 6" component set with 1" tweeters up front and 6" midbass in the rear deck, all powered by a 4ch Rockford amp (forget the model off the top of my head)
and for bass I had 3 JL 10w6 (back when they were new. dang, I am old) powered by a RF Punch 100ix2 (last of the pillbug style amps)

I wasn't running godly amounts of power and didn't have enormous speakers, but it was plenty loud enough for a daily driven vehicle. It was clean and clear and could be heard for blocks if I cranked it.

Another aspect to look at is vibrations. I hated some of the systems you'd hear around town. When the car/truck/suv would drive past and all you heard was Brrraaannng Brraaannggg from the metal in the vehicle rattling apart. I'd say take your time before you install the system and sound dampen anything that rattles, and go over the odds and ends and fill any dead space with expanding household foam to keep rattles to a minimum. Places like the rear hatch, roof panel, plastic around the cargo area, they're all going to shake like crazy no matter what you put in for a system.

Also, water damage from leaking window seals and hatch seals can become an issue if you run too much SPL in a daily driver. my 90 Escort with 2 HiFonics Zues 15s leaked like a siv. The rear hatch leaked as well as all the rear glass. Every time I'd reseal it, it would blow apart again. Eventually all the water that leaked in ruined my sub box.

Just some food for though... Let us know what you end up with.
 
ok ok. here it is, i dont just want it to sound primo in the car, i want it an attention grabber that people are like thats insane. just like i did with my blasty :D

but the problem is, i really cant a million dollars, so huge isnt looking to good eh.

i designed up a sick sub box, bunch of blueprints for it, designed it almost dead on to 20.6cu ft and to fit in my car. thats for the 18"s though. i think by the sounds of it, im going to have to scale down. i dont want to be buying like 2 extra batterys, caps, bigger alternator/2 alternator setup, and massivly expensive amps.

so hard with so many choices jesus christ. thanks to everyone helping. its like almost to much help because so much changes between each setup so does the advice.
 
Thats a good idea 89. You can make that system that will turn peoples heads for under $2k. When i had my type r's I think I had less than $700 into the whole system and it banged!
 
i got my Amp for $650 when it was new.. i just bought the same amp for 100 bucks its 1500w unbridged and is a 1/2 ohm stable.. you know what that means.. lol
one yellow or red top optima battery and a good digital cap you should be fine.. 0 guage cable from the batt. and a breaker not a fuse..
 
in my freind's golf he got ONe 15' RE sub with a JL audio amp and a capacitor and it beats all others in its class in a competition.. and it was only about 550 for the whole thing ( including installation and the making of the custom sub box) and the amp was 250 he got from someone in need of money and needing to sell it so 800 got him a bangin system.. it rattles the whole car. 1 15 and a good setup will get the attention you want.. 2-18's gets expansive
 
i have 2 kicker 12 comp with a volfenhag 800watt amp. volfenhag is german company and they make really good stuff i run my subs everyday everywhere i go and the amps held up and so have the subs. volfenhag makes really good stuff u can usually find them really cheap and u will b very satisfied i paid 115 for the amp.