The blaster ran great until it ran out of gas. When i go to start it the motor just dies but if i keep on the throttle it runs but dies as soon as i let off. After trying to keep it running for 20 seconds my fatty pipe is smoking hot. I dont mess with trying to keep it running anymore i dont want to blow it up.I have checked the carb changed jets main is a 230 and idle is a 35 I think. I live in mi. Cleaned bowl and everything is gunk free. Fuel peacock is not clogged changed fuel. I'm totally stumped. Let me know what u have for ideas thanks
99 blaster won't idle
- Thread starter 2stroker4life
- Start date
With the petcock on, crack the drain screw.
You should have a constant dribble of fuel coming from the drain tube.
Clean the pilot jet again, it has a very small hole which is hard to clear.
Stock pilot jet should be a #32.5.
Do you have any mods?
A too lean mixture screams heat and could be caused by an air leak or a poor supply of fuel.
You should have a constant dribble of fuel coming from the drain tube.
Clean the pilot jet again, it has a very small hole which is hard to clear.
Stock pilot jet should be a #32.5.
Do you have any mods?
A too lean mixture screams heat and could be caused by an air leak or a poor supply of fuel.
What do u mean crack the drain screw. Not sure what your talking about. I have .20 over force reeds and fmf fatty with sparky. I know that the idle jet is larger then stock motorsports place didn't have one in stock. Even with that it would be getting more fuel so why is it so lean and not even trying to idle . Let me know thanks
As answered in your similar post, please keep to one thread.
Firstly a #230 main jet is too small for a Fatty.
#260 airbox lid on.
#270 - 280 airbox lid off, depending on filter.
Up one size for oil injection delete and 32:1.
Make sure you have a good supply of fuel and clean the pilot really well.
Open the drain screw and see if a constant stream of gas flows from the drain tube.
Have you leak tested it.
Ok so it has a Vito's block off on it. Premixed to 32:1. My air filter is just exposed with a mod with a 3 inch pipe out of the back of the box for more air flow. Air filter is exposed no cover but is sealed tight to boot Under the seat so I should run a 280 main jet or a 290 ? And just run the stock other jet. Also can u walk me through the leak test. What am I supposed to do?
With no air leaks a #260 - #270 should do it but plug chop to confirm.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
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I would take your choke circuit apart and clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner and compressed air. I would remove the black rubber o-ring first to avoid swelling from contact with the carb cleaner. My blaster wouldn't idle when I first got it, I cleaned the choke circuit really good and its been idling ever since !
the drain screw is loacted at the back bottom of the fuel bowl, turn it out to allow the bowl to drain, it should have a steady flow of fuel while the petcock is open
return to the stock 32.5 pilot, start with the airscrew at 1.5 turns out, then adust 1/2 turn at a time until highest odle is acheived, allowing 15+ seconds between 1/2 turns to allow motor to "catch up"
then adjust idle with the idle screw
i'd be willing to bet that you'll need 2-1/2 + turns out with the larger pilot, which is too much
should be between 1/2 and 2-1/2 turns out
again...return to the stock 32.5 pilot jet
