5 mil long rod
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nope, its a 4 mil crank with a longer banshee rod attached, gives the piston a mechanical advantage over the crank plus the added displacement
ken from kenoconnorracing.com just told me he will be offering these as a package deal soon
ken from kenoconnorracing.com just told me he will be offering these as a package deal soon
the stock rod i believe is 110mm and the banshee is 115mm. if u plan on running one plan on new piston and rings every 20-30 hrs to be on the safe side. the cost of these motors are not cheap, u have to trench the cases for the +4, def gonna need a new clutch, have a machinist set it up for the long rod and the cost of a bb kit, if u go that route, ur looking at around 18-2200 depending on how much u do urself.
You can run a long on a stock stroke stock bore engine. You need a spacer plate to move the cylinder higher but it will run fine with absolutely no other work done to the engine.
yes u can run them on a stock jug, but i figured if u were going to spend the money u might as well do bbk and have it ported, just my opinion. ur best bet is to talk to ken oconnor and he will take care of u...
You didn't get two different answers, I clarified. You do not HAVE to have a big bore kit and +4 stroker crank to also have a +5 long rod crank. They can be run together or separate but like most motor work you will see the largest gains if things are done together and tuned together.
PERSONALLY, I would NOT take a brand new stroker crank with a brand new rod and bearing pack and pay to press that thing out and press another rod on. I would build a bitching +4 stroker big bore engine and when the rod flew apart because of how high I had that thing wound, I would replace the factory 110mm length rod with a 115mm length rod and purchase the spacer plate. The long rod + spacer plate leaves the same port timing and everything it just increases the rods leverage on the crank throw and decreases the small end bearings angle slightly.
PERSONALLY, I would NOT take a brand new stroker crank with a brand new rod and bearing pack and pay to press that thing out and press another rod on. I would build a bitching +4 stroker big bore engine and when the rod flew apart because of how high I had that thing wound, I would replace the factory 110mm length rod with a 115mm length rod and purchase the spacer plate. The long rod + spacer plate leaves the same port timing and everything it just increases the rods leverage on the crank throw and decreases the small end bearings angle slightly.
Ok sorry but I'm jackin this biotch. so why wouldn't people put these on the 3mil? would you still have to trench the cases?
yes,unless you have the longer connecting rod machined like the vitos rod,you will have to cut the cases.
The beauty of the +3 vito's stroker is you can use a handfile, file the incoming angle and outgoing angle and rock on. Vito's uses a smaller OD big end bearing rod to make that happen. Thinner metal (by a handful of thousandths) allows the +3 stroker without trenching.
As CHutzell said, if you put the 5 mil long rod rod on the +3 stroker, you'd have to trench the cases then.
With the stock stroke 5 mil long rod, the only difference is a spacer plate to move the cylinder up. With a +4 stroker +5 long rod, you have to trench the cases anyway so doing that and adding a spacer plate is a drop in the bucket compared to the amount of engine work which will probably happen to utilize the +4 stroker anyway.
Again, having had one, I wouldn't press a brand new rod off any crank for the long rod mod. I would consider it only once the big end bearing on a crankshaft had already failed...while you're pressing the crank apart ANYWAY, throw the long rod on it.
As CHutzell said, if you put the 5 mil long rod rod on the +3 stroker, you'd have to trench the cases then.
With the stock stroke 5 mil long rod, the only difference is a spacer plate to move the cylinder up. With a +4 stroker +5 long rod, you have to trench the cases anyway so doing that and adding a spacer plate is a drop in the bucket compared to the amount of engine work which will probably happen to utilize the +4 stroker anyway.
Again, having had one, I wouldn't press a brand new rod off any crank for the long rod mod. I would consider it only once the big end bearing on a crankshaft had already failed...while you're pressing the crank apart ANYWAY, throw the long rod on it.
thats not what ken told me he said he had checked his rings on his long rod and there were fine the extra wear would be from the piston moving 5mm per rotation.
im kinda lost why u guys are saying that it will wear the rings outs faster, doesnt this long rod mod onlt give u 2.5 up and 2.5mm down...how does that wear the rings out faster??
It doesn't even give it 2.5 up and 2.5 down. Same stroke as whatever crankshaft you have (long rod on a stock stroke is still 57mm, long rod on a +4 stroker is still 61mm stroke). It only moves the position that the stroke takes place at (moves the jug, piston, rings, and head all up together) up by the additional rod length to decrease the angle the rod is at compared to the piston.
Shouldn't wear rings out any faster than rings will wear without a long rod setup. (I had a 4mil long rod and ran the same set of rings for over a year with no measurable loss in compression).
Shouldn't wear rings out any faster than rings will wear without a long rod setup. (I had a 4mil long rod and ran the same set of rings for over a year with no measurable loss in compression).
The reason why you will see more wear on your parts with a stroker crank,is the connecting rod angle.increasing the stroke creates more angle on the rod,if you can picture the rod on the on its way back to TDC from BDC the rod is trying to push the piston threw the exhuast side of the cylinder,more angle on the rod makes more thrust on the intake and exhuast side of the cylinder.Like si said,the longer rod moves the piston 5mm higher at TDC and 5mm higher at BDC,it does not effect the stroke length
ahhh gotcha...so then a 5mm spacer plate is what corrects that unwanted rod angle...so is it actually worse to run a +3stroker without a spacer plate due to the rod angle??
no the spacer is to correct for the added connecting rod length.the easiest and best way to correct for the unwanted angle is to use a longer connecting rod,there are a few other things you can do to manipulate rod angle aswell but really doesnt need to be covered
What is done piston wise for having the pin raised for longer rod? On Banshees they use Blaster "style" pistons.
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