+4 or +6
- Thread starter lowkhalbalr
- Start date
that depends on a alot of factors like rider weight and height, also if u have a raised steering stem
Think about a few things here:
1. The further you move the axle reward the more weight that is shifted onto the front tires and reduces traction in the rear. Great for limiting front wheel lift and breaking rear traction when needed.
2. By lengthening the rear end, you add additional weight to the "sprung" moment effected by the rear shock and increase the leverage the rear tires have on the shock. Depending on rider weight, a stiffer spring and heavier valving in the shock may be in order.
There is a fine line in suspension geometry. Once you go over that line, the effect multiplies quickly every inch you increase the moment of movement.
So in conclusion, lengthening the bike by moving the axle reward will have both good and bad effects, depending on how far you move the axle reward.
In my experience with these bikes, a +4 is all the further you want to go, unless your strictly drag/hill racing in a straight line and your producing enough power to lift the front end off the ground [out of control] with anything smaller and all you plan to do is go straight.
Without widening the track of the bike, you will soon be unable to turn the bike in the shortest possible radius as well.
1. The further you move the axle reward the more weight that is shifted onto the front tires and reduces traction in the rear. Great for limiting front wheel lift and breaking rear traction when needed.
2. By lengthening the rear end, you add additional weight to the "sprung" moment effected by the rear shock and increase the leverage the rear tires have on the shock. Depending on rider weight, a stiffer spring and heavier valving in the shock may be in order.
There is a fine line in suspension geometry. Once you go over that line, the effect multiplies quickly every inch you increase the moment of movement.
So in conclusion, lengthening the bike by moving the axle reward will have both good and bad effects, depending on how far you move the axle reward.
In my experience with these bikes, a +4 is all the further you want to go, unless your strictly drag/hill racing in a straight line and your producing enough power to lift the front end off the ground [out of control] with anything smaller and all you plan to do is go straight.
Without widening the track of the bike, you will soon be unable to turn the bike in the shortest possible radius as well.
roger that. thanks, i was alittle undecided
btw, the bike has been widened 2''also how many chain links will be necessary?
roger that. thanks, i was alittle undecided
also how many chain links will be necessary?
Widening the bike some will help in overall steering. I have always widened the front approx. 1" on each side than the rear. Keeping the front a lil wider helps over power the rear end.
Each link is approx 3/4 inch long, so +4 inches divided by .75 = 5.333 x 2 (top and bottom of sprocket) = 11 links.
well it depends on who u talk to about length i guess. as ive talked to a few pretty respected suspension guys who say a +6 on a blaster does not kill it as a trail quad because they turn like crap anyways and work better when slid thru a corner
thats my point exactly! why need to turn good when you can slide around any turn perfectly. i have a +4 on my trail bike and i can still lift it up and wheelie in dirt. mine works great for heavy trail riding I:I
I wouldn't go any longer then +2 ( or +3 for a built 244 ) for traction and cosmetic reasons.
But do whatever floats your boat....
But do whatever floats your boat....
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