240 stock carb jetting

Eddy B

New Member
Mar 8, 2015
26
0
2
38
pennsylvania
Ok guys installed vitos 240. And it runs pretty good it's a non ported motor with stock carb. I installed the 340 main jet pilot and needle that came with the kit the needle is set in the middle position....so now that u know all that here is my problem the bike bogs at lower rpm in 2nd thru 6 and seems to me the throttle response should b more crisp any ideas???
 
jet in this order......


float height checked/set ?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

chances are for a 240cc you may need to jump from the 32.5 to 35 pilot ?
use this thread for how to adjust the airscrew, and that final setting that achieves high idle will tell you if you if the stock pilot is fine, or an increase is needed........

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/


once you get the pilot/airscrew set, you may want to play with the needle, richen it by lowering the clip first, if the symptoms get worse, try raising the clip 1 above where you are now to lean the needle, and see how it feels.
you can also plug chop the needle settings by using the thumb lever stop screw and run it 1/2 throttle for a 1 run plug chop

plug chop: (for needle and main jet)
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
 
The problem may be in the needle that came with the kit.

Try using the stock needle on the middle clip.

If you still have the airbox lid on a #340 seems a pretty large jet, especially with a stock filter.
 
Thanks for the help guys blaster f###n rips now can't wait to get new carb and exhaust ;)

so what was the final jetting for a 240cc cylinder running an FMF pipe and the stock carb/filter ?
there isn't much info on here for that combo, so anything you can add will help us help others.
 
Well all I did was step down from the 340 main( which vitos recommends for stock carb) to a 300 main jet and stock needle set in the middle position and I used the pilot that came with the vitos kit after I did that I fired it up and found that throttle response was great and it didn't bog while at low rpm I'm might play with the needle a lil more to c if I can get more out of it.....
 
Well all I did was step down from the 340 main( which vitos recommends for stock carb) to a 300 main jet and stock needle set in the middle position and I used the pilot that came with the vitos kit after I did that I fired it up and found that throttle response was great and it didn't bog while at low rpm I'm might play with the needle a lil more to c if I can get more out of it.....
U guys r great thanks for all the help I'm sure I'll b asking more when I get my new carb
 
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.


WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.


Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.


image.jpg



You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
 
So I been looking at filters what do u guy s think about uni and k&n can I just get any air filter that's for my blaster or is there a certain one for the bb kit...and. I was also wondering when I get the bigger carb do I need different throttle assembly or cable
 
Last edited:
Currently I run a K and N filter but I just got a Uni. Lots of atv folks say Uni filter. I am nit sure why but there must be a reason so I am going to follow the crowd. I have always used K and N in any other vehicle I have owned.

As far as the throttle cable it may depend on what carb you are going to run.
 
if you have the tors box removed off the top of the carb with the new cap on it that cable will work on 34 pj carbs and probably the pwk's ...
 
the blaster thumb throttle works with that cable but im looking at getting a 250r,400ex, or maybe a banshee thumb throttle because pulling that bigger carb is making my thumb hurt. I think I read somewhere that they might have more leverage or something to make it easy pulling a bigger carb or 2 carbs in the banshee
 
Currently I run a K and N filter but I just got a Uni. Lots of atv folks say Uni filter. I am nit sure why but there must be a reason so I am going to follow the crowd. I have always used K and N in any other vehicle I have owned.

As far as the throttle cable it may depend on what carb you are going to run.

The K&N's allow more air and with that more dirt/sand.
UNI...FTW !!!!
 
Hey guys need ur help again was ridding my blaster with the new 240 after I finally got it running good and the motor all a sudden lost power and stalled so I got it home swapped plugs and started it up it will sit and idle but as soon as u hit the gas it chokes the motor out hope u guys got sum suggestions
 
Most epic thread ever you probably ran it lean if it was running really good . I guess if it still idles you might be okay but you should always confirm with chops.
 
Last edited: