alright guys, I got some rubber expansion plugs, plugged the intake and exhaust. Then took my hose from my compression tester and took the valve out of it and put it around 7-8 psi on compressor. it's leaking out of the reed box where the boot meets reed box, looks like both of them are warped. should I go with a aftermarket box? or stock, and how tight do they need to be tightened down to? any torque spec? Also, this little port. I see on the diagram a vent hose coming off of it, does the vent hose connect to anything on other end?
2006 blaster runaway issues
- Thread starter Scott Pepple
- Start date
Pressurising from the plug hole may not find a leak at the carby boot if the reeds are sealing well!
The carb boot and reed block must be torqued at 5.8 ft lbs, no more or the boot and block may warp!
You may be able to seal the block and boot with a little High temp copper RTV or a bonding agent.
Torque the nuts diagonally and a little at a time,
Leave to cure overnight!
The carb boot and reed block must be torqued at 5.8 ft lbs, no more or the boot and block may warp!
You may be able to seal the block and boot with a little High temp copper RTV or a bonding agent.
Torque the nuts diagonally and a little at a time,
Leave to cure overnight!
That's what I did was used RTV. both the metal part on the baseplate of boot and reed box looked slightly bowed/warped. If this doesn't work i'll buy new reed box/boot. Is there any aftermarket replacement that is suitable for the build I have?
What is your build?
reeds you can always upgrade. some VF4's will do nicely. As for the carb boot, the stock one works on a stock carby
just 67.25 wiseco piston, fresh rebuild. stock header, dg muffler, super stock boyeson dual stage reeds. haven't jetted it yet, doing some other things before I fire it up again. I Did the Tors delete today with the aftermarket cable and throttle bolt on side of carb.
I would take off the reeds and carb boot. lay them on a flat piece of glass/granite and see if any spot raises up
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