06 blaster won't run right
- Thread starter ikilledcasey
- Start date
I think we should make a sticky on rm and rickey stators. People still buy that junk.
I'd a richer pilot doesn't help that, may want to check for air leaks. Don't overlook the main seals while you're at it.
Just back your air screw out 1.5 turns and see if it still hanging.. if so just shut it off and get a leak tester and fix the air leak..dont need to go any bigger than a 32.5 stock pilot jet on your stock carb
I did read a lot about not buying them because they are sh*t... But it was kinda hard to not take a 47 dollar chance..
BUT lesson learned..
I plan on going back and taking it all back apart and cleaning and painting it all and reseal the head and i took the reeds out to check them and i read that ill need some sort of sealant for that, right?
i was excited when i got it and took the entire thing apart...it is my first quad thats all mine and i wanted to know what went on in there and find out why the engine was seized ( upon delivery of flywheel puller i found out it was a magnet in the flywheel had broke off and was jammed against stator)
any advice on what to get to do a kind of tune up rebuild?
BUT lesson learned..
I plan on going back and taking it all back apart and cleaning and painting it all and reseal the head and i took the reeds out to check them and i read that ill need some sort of sealant for that, right?
i was excited when i got it and took the entire thing apart...it is my first quad thats all mine and i wanted to know what went on in there and find out why the engine was seized ( upon delivery of flywheel puller i found out it was a magnet in the flywheel had broke off and was jammed against stator)
any advice on what to get to do a kind of tune up rebuild?
I talked myself into buying one of those $47 p.o.s too..couldn't help myself and now them junk stators have a new home!! Landfill.lol..for the reeds we like to use yamabond..tune up build as in give carb and air filter a good cleaning?
i mean like i didn't torque the head bolts down to spec just kind of eyeballed it as compared to how hard it was to get off... i want to take that back apart and get those torqued to where they're supposed to be.
The seals on the jug and head are good but should i replace them or is there a sealant for them i should put when redoing
I know thats not goo so i didn't let the bike run for very long today just when i got it to start and rev i shut her down and started making a list of things i need to touch up
The seals on the jug and head are good but should i replace them or is there a sealant for them i should put when redoing
I know thats not goo so i didn't let the bike run for very long today just when i got it to start and rev i shut her down and started making a list of things i need to touch up
Just pulling the head and jug nuts down willy nilly, is asking for trouble.
If the tensions are too light leakage may occur.
Too tight, stretched threads and broken cylinder lugs are a possibility.
Uneven tensions on fasteners have caused more carnage than I care to remember.
No sealant should be used on head or cylinder surfaces, just clean and dry, tension to specs using new gaskets.
Beg, borrow, buy, make or steal a tension wrench and a crows foot wrench.
New gaskets must be used when you loosen the nuts to re tension.
It would be a good idea to get and learn to use a leak tester.
If the tensions are too light leakage may occur.
Too tight, stretched threads and broken cylinder lugs are a possibility.
Uneven tensions on fasteners have caused more carnage than I care to remember.
No sealant should be used on head or cylinder surfaces, just clean and dry, tension to specs using new gaskets.
Beg, borrow, buy, make or steal a tension wrench and a crows foot wrench.
New gaskets must be used when you loosen the nuts to re tension.
It would be a good idea to get and learn to use a leak tester.
i found my problem yesturday that i was getting gear oil mixed with gas the crank seal was bad where clutch is
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