06 Blaster carb rebuild/re-jet need advice

[2006BlasterSE]

Hey all, new to the forum and new to quads too. I've rode but never messed with them at all. I was recently given a 2006 Blaster Special Edition as part of a trade, and I kinda like it. Supposedly bored .020 over with Wiseco piston kit and oil injection bypassed, otherwise all stock (I know the guy well enough I believe him).

Anyway, it had a HUGE fatty pipe on it and Toomey racing silencer and it was too loud for me, so I put on a FMF fatty and Turbine Core 2 with spark arrestor. Runs good for the most part, randomly idles high though and sputters at low-rpms. I'm still playing with it trying to run some gas through it and just drive it to see if the problem persists or if my gas mix isn't right.. Tossing around the idea of re-jetting and rebuilding the carburetor but have no clue what to get. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I do light riding around pastures and sometimes the beach. No real hills or jumps for me... Yet!

Thanks guys, looking forward to getting some experience and maybe building this thing up a bit!

 

[82cutty]

Sounds like an air leak with the random idle . Do a leak down test on the motor to make sure it's leak free . They like to leak around the reed cage . After you make sure it's leak free take the carb apart and give it a good cleaning . With your mods start jetting with a 270-280 main... air screw 1.5 turns out from slightly seated and needle in the middle clip . Also make sure the float is adjusted...21mm . Pre-mix at 32/1 . That's 4oz. of oil for a gallon of gas

 

[Blaaster]

Then plug chop to confirm jetting.

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.


Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.


You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.


Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.


The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.


I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.


If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

 

[2006BlasterSE]

Well the good news is that with the full FMF exhaust I put on the idling/sputtering problem stopped. There was no seal at the head at all on the old pipe, I'm guessing that was the problem.

I'll have to do some serious video watching, because you guys lost me. Sounds like I'm wandering in over my head for something I may not need anyway. I barely have room to make good use of 3rd gear, much less hold 5th or 6th! Since the new exhaust made it so much smoother I think I'll just leave it as-is and work on widening it instead. I do appreciate the advice, you guys definitely seem like you've been doing it awhile!!

 

[Blaaster]

It is possible to do a plug chop run in 3rd gear, hold your foot on the brake and make the engine pull hard in the powerband at WOT.