05 blaster issues please help!

i'm not seeing a definative answer to a few things.... has the carb been cleaned according to the DIY posted above ?, what jets are in it ? float level correct ?
wether the tors system and e-brake switch have been removed ?, they are easier to remove than test/diagnose

here ya go...........

http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-tors-removal-diy-41973/

the parking brake sensor on the clutch lever should just get unplugged under the hood, or wires cut and taped off seperately to insulate them from each other or getting grounded to the frame
 
No I cleaned the carb myself its clean but I didn't check out the jets and is one of those links for the tors and e brake removal? Because it has a parking brake I believe on the left handlebar but its not hooked up it has no tension at all
 
tension of the cable/brake on the parking brake lever doesn't assure the switch itself is functioning, follow the wire coming out of the clutch lever down under the hood and pull the connector apart to disable it, and eliminate it from the list of causes, then follow the DIY tors removal linked above
 
how to post pics...........
http://www.blasterforum.com/pics-vi...t-way-upload-pictures-thread-5612/index2.html


without looking at your pics, the line you describe is the oil injection line, it goes down into the case to the oil pump and injects 2 stroke oil into the carb to be mixed with the fuel for crank/bearing and piston lubrication
if you are still adding 2 stroke oil to the tank under the seat and injecting it, you need that line connected, it comes off by picking the brass ring back away from the carb, then the line will pull off, push brass ring back when returning it onto the carb.

if you are premixing your fuel/oil, that whole oil injection system can/should be deleted with a blockoff kit available on ebay or vitos performance .com
and that inlet nipple on the carb MUST be plugged off with a 1/8" vacuum cap from any auto parts store.
again /\ that is only if you are premixing fuel/oil @ 32:1 with a good 2 stroke oil

here's DIY's on removing the injection system, but is not required, the injection system works good, just keep the tank under the seat full of a good 2 stroke injection type oil and free from dirt/debris...

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-oil-injection-without-block-off-kit-3272/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/injector-block-off-clean-3-a-31229/
 
So I can leave it on the carb and just take it off from the engine side?


if you plan to continue to use the injection system, remove it from the carb, replace when done cleaning the carb, do not remove it from the pump unless completely deleting the oil injection system and going to pre-mix your fuel/oil
 
yeah that line goes to the oil pump, its located in the front of the right side of the crank case cover, where the line from the carb goes into. The oil pump is under the oil pump cover
 
ok so heres the carb pics its the only visible line remaining on the carb.
9tmlxt.jpg

and another
13z4cw2.jpg
 
Thank you so much the wheeler is up and running after the tots it runs mint can't thank you guys enough so much respect to you guys!
 
Ya I can't thank you enough!!! Trying it out tomorrow I'm taking the one that was broken my buddy is taking my other blaster hoping to have a good ill let you know I any other issues come about thanks again! And ya my names vinny won't hesitate to let you guys know on other issues!
 
I'm also having trouble moving in this mass snow anuway to get around that? Better tires? Chains? I want to ride now haha
 
Will do man! I got a nice jump I might try hitting good with my other blaster that I'm more comfortable on