'01 Blaster Issues... Low end bogging, dies and wont start after an hour...
- Thread starter Dc2ProductionS
- Start date
Hahaha thanks!! Yea Ive done a little video editing before
So what should my next course of action be? Find out the size of the carb? I can take some pics of it when I get back home. From there it might be adjusting the jetting?Maybe replace with a whole new carb??
It moves, and if you learn how to ride it, you can keep the power up as you can see throughout that video. But having the low end power would make it just that much better. It works, yes. But I want it to be right.
awesome video man,nice job
told you it was not stock carb lol
good job painting too...keep it coming
told you it was not stock carb lol
good job painting too...keep it coming
if that carb has an actual brass idle screw midway along the carb body, then it is a PWK,
could be 28, 35 or 36mm
you'll need to actaully measure the I.D. of the engine side carb throat
if no idle screw is present, but the choke knob screws up and down, which alters the choke circut
to control idle rpm's, then it is a 34mm PJ.
could be 28, 35 or 36mm
you'll need to actaully measure the I.D. of the engine side carb throat
if no idle screw is present, but the choke knob screws up and down, which alters the choke circut
to control idle rpm's, then it is a 34mm PJ.
Here are a few pics of the Carb.
Dont mind the fitting leading into the top of the carb. Little Mcguiver trick I had to use bc of the throttle cable length going from the twist to thumb throttle before my new cable arrives. The throttle is really crisp, and idles better than before. It actually wouldnt even hold an idle before. lol.
Take a look at this thing and lmk if you can tell me anything bc idk a damn thing!!
Dont mind the fitting leading into the top of the carb. Little Mcguiver trick I had to use bc of the throttle cable length going from the twist to thumb throttle before my new cable arrives. The throttle is really crisp, and idles better than before. It actually wouldnt even hold an idle before. lol.
Take a look at this thing and lmk if you can tell me anything bc idk a damn thing!!
yuuuup, Keihin 34mm PJ
the choke knob threads in and out to adjust idle....
took some squeezing to get that into a stock intake.
and the clamp is 1/2 off the actual carb throat, better get that slid back before the carb pops out creating a huge airleak and go boom !
i'd keep a close eye on the intake for cracking, stretching it that much has been known for that.
best bet is to find a 34-36mm UPP intake on ebay.
34mm PJ jetting ranges.....
float height - 16mm
pilot - 45-48-50
needle DGH or CEL (a must have to get rid of that 1/4-1/2 throttle bog)
mains 145-162
the choke knob threads in and out to adjust idle....
took some squeezing to get that into a stock intake.
and the clamp is 1/2 off the actual carb throat, better get that slid back before the carb pops out creating a huge airleak and go boom !
i'd keep a close eye on the intake for cracking, stretching it that much has been known for that.
best bet is to find a 34-36mm UPP intake on ebay.
34mm PJ jetting ranges.....
float height - 16mm
pilot - 45-48-50
needle DGH or CEL (a must have to get rid of that 1/4-1/2 throttle bog)
mains 145-162
good eye speedy !
better get that missing bolt replaced/repaired and leakdown tested before riding it again,
or you'll be asking for top end rebuild advice
i think me and awk posted exactly at same time lol
either that bolt is missing or has a flat head to it cant tell from pic really
either that bolt is missing or has a flat head to it cant tell from pic really
which bolt or space are you talking about? I never noticed a missing piece or something that looked filled to me.???
and isn't this quite interesting.
they looped the 2 oil injection lines together when they went to premix, and the line from the carb inlet runs back into the oil feed line to back to the oil pump.
if oil was left in there (?) and circulated around and around, this could solve the possibility of the pump running dry and seizing ?
they looped the 2 oil injection lines together when they went to premix, and the line from the carb inlet runs back into the oil feed line to back to the oil pump.
if oil was left in there (?) and circulated around and around, this could solve the possibility of the pump running dry and seizing ?
i saw that too lol....i was about to ask what was up
better than just cutting and plugging them without removing the pump and gear ha ?
btw, FOR ONCE..... my paint skillz kicked yo azz above showing the missing bolt
That's actually what a buddy told me to do when I first got my blaster, but I just ended up doing the full delete.
Hmmmm.... I never noticed that bolt missing before! Thank you for noticing that! I will have to take a good look at that and see what I can do. I wouldnt be surprised if that is part of my problem since it looks like there is nothing there really holding it at all... When pinned it could be getting enough air for that leak to not matter, but in the low end there isnt enough air pushing past it to compensate for the leak and its fudging everything up.
Now its just figuring out if the bolt is missing (best case) snapped, or worse.... I'll have to do some inspecting!
Now its just figuring out if the bolt is missing (best case) snapped, or worse.... I'll have to do some inspecting!
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