00 Blaster seizing up 3 top ends...

[Fordguy22]

Hi,

I have a 2000 Blaster stock except for the fmf pipe, it ran fine until it seized up one trip to the desert... I believe it was original top end but we honed it out and tried a stock piston and rings and new plug after 30 min of riding seized. So i took the cylinder to a machine shop he bored it out to a 67.50 I believe with the Wiesco piston and rings, I installed it and Also installed the oil injection block off kit and was running 32-2 ratio like i do in all of my 6 2 strokes, We rode it a lil the first day no problems, and did some night riding, then on Sunday rode it about 20 miles or so with a 15 minute break and it seized up about 10 more miles, I pulled it apart and the new top it was just messed up, and the bottom end has burn marks on it but the play seems fine other than the side to side motion i would say is a little more than a mil each way.

ANYONE have any advice or ideas for me????

 

[Awk08]

i see no mention of rejetting for the fmf pipe ???
what jetting is in your carb ???? your main should be in the
260 - 290 range depending on elevation and temps


maybe your above...32:2 is a typo ????
thats 16:1, and not providing enuf oil
we all run 32:1 mix sucessfully

when the oil injection was deleted, did the injection nipple on the carb get blocked off ???

is this motor leakproof ???
when you rebuilt it, did you use factory gaskets ??? especially the base gasket, the green ones will suck in and cause a massive airleak

most seizures are caused by excessive heat caused by airleaks, improper lean jetting or imporper fuel/oil mix

heres some info you should read and learn.................

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/

check those out, let us know your current jetting, and if any of the above mentioned rings a bell and may be your problem, then we'll go from there

 

[Fordguy22]

The Bike came with the pipe on it and I dont know about anything done to the carb, re jetting ect... When I got the bike it ran fine for 2 or 3 desert trips but now its just messing up on me.. It has no Oil leaks what so ever I do not know about airleak. The oil injection kit came with plugs for the carb which I did put in and seem to be fine. Yes the Ratio was a typo I was running a 32-1

 

[Awk08]

gonna need to pull the carb and confirm the main jet #, it should be a 260/270/290 range for that pipe

the stock pilot and needle on the middle clip position will be fine, give it a good cleaning while your in there

and check the float level, it should be 20-21.5mm, measured like this...............

then it's gonna need leak tested, it must be absolutely airtight. or it will fry, over and over again and again, each time you even pull the reeds, it must be leaktested again, as the intake is another popular leak spot

what color base gasket did you use, and did you use brand new ones when you redid it before ???
we've seen numerous air leaks from the green paper base gaskets, and recommend only factory or cometic gase gaskets

after each rebuild was the motor given proper "heat cycles" then the base and head bolts retorqued ???

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/blaster-engine-break-44174/

you're gonna need to confirm a few of these things then we'll move on to other possible causes

 

[Budget_Blaster]

First things first as awk said verify jetting and then do an actual break in complete with heat cycles.

These things are not SBF's you cant slappem together good enough to fire up and just "TAKE IT EASY" and everything be ok.

You have to gettem sealed up,jetted,and broke in correctly.

Also how do the crank seals look?Excessive amounts of smoke that stinks like ass?

What are the compression readings upon assembly of the engine?

 

[Awk08]

ok, so oil mix was a typo, good there

pull the carb to confirm jetting and float level

then your gonna need a leakdown tester for the new rebuild coming,
no oil leaks are not a good indicator of that, as the tranny is in a seperated compartment from the cylinder/crank

contact slickerthanyou on here, he makes and sales a very nice affordable leakdown tester
or follow the link in my first post to build your own, but it must be done for proper jetting, and eliminate airleaks and melt downs

 

[Awk08]

and if the original motor was stock when you bought it, why did that shop go clean up to a 67.5 ???
usually one size will do, they jumped halfway thru your 9 bores a stock cylinder allows
do you trust this shop ????
if not call the number in my sig below for the best work around, well worth the few bucks shipping
whats your location ???

 

[Budget_Blaster]

and if the original motor was stock when you bought it, why did that shop go clean up to a 67.5 ???
usually one size will do, they jumped halfway thru your 9 bores a stock cylinder allows
do you trust this shop ????
if not call the number in my sig below for the best work around, well worth the few bucks shipping
whats your location ???

Yea seriously if youre going to keep the bike and longevity is a factor or concern do buisness with KOR!

Ive had luck with one local shop there in town but nothing like ken does!!!

My 240BBK from the day i bought it brand new from vitos to blowing it up sending it to ken and getting it back was night and day!

And to tell you how well the guy is known and respected i called vitos just yesterday afternoon after calling ken about my pwk jetting needs and the guy i spoke to named "paul" i belive said and i quote "IF KEN TOLD YOU TO RUN IT A CERTAIN WAY I WOULDNT ARGUE WITH HIM" i was like damn!

If a well known popular manufacturer is telling you not to disreguard the mans word you know its serious.