the back mounts dont look to strong lol (where the pipings welded to the frame) but other then that looks nice 
XJ550 Blaster
- Thread starter 79xs
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the back mounts dont look to strong lol (where the pipings welded to the frame) but other then that looks nice
Really? This is my first time building a frame so I am worried about that kind of stuff. The tubes for the rear mounts were glowing red when I finished welding so I was pretty sure I got a good weld on them. I know the welds don't look super smooth, but I got a good sound when laying the beeds. What do you guys think?
I think drifz is talking about where the square corner is welded to the original part of the frame, not the motor mount piece. I don't think he's done with that area. The last picture set was with the motor mount beefed up but blocking the welded area from view. The first set of pictures shows the area very well but everything was only tack welded together...
I would chop that area of the frame out and run a piece of tubing from right behind the upper shock mount to right on top of the rear upper control arm mounting spots. I would then either trim the pipes and bend them tighter or purchase some stainless and extend the straight pieces and then curve the pipes down inside the frame between the lower control arms and then back towards the back of the quad. It'll make them difficult to remove but better flowing for balancing the pipe pulses. Anything you do to that pipe system is going to drop top HP numbers but the less you can do to it the better off you'll be. When you get the pipes down to two, you might want to make an H pipe to balance the two pipes before you enter the silencer. I'm not sure how much it's going to get some of that lost power back but it's a simple exhaust modification and it might help.
I would chop that area of the frame out and run a piece of tubing from right behind the upper shock mount to right on top of the rear upper control arm mounting spots. I would then either trim the pipes and bend them tighter or purchase some stainless and extend the straight pieces and then curve the pipes down inside the frame between the lower control arms and then back towards the back of the quad. It'll make them difficult to remove but better flowing for balancing the pipe pulses. Anything you do to that pipe system is going to drop top HP numbers but the less you can do to it the better off you'll be. When you get the pipes down to two, you might want to make an H pipe to balance the two pipes before you enter the silencer. I'm not sure how much it's going to get some of that lost power back but it's a simple exhaust modification and it might help.
ooooh I see... right now its welded all the way across the back and front. I don't have any pics of that. The sides are just tacks until I find out how I want to do the pegs. There will also be a gusset plate that joins the rear round bar to the mid cross bar between the rear motor mounts.
exactly like that. Your head has the exhaust ports aimed straight at the piece that sticks out the farthest right now. If the frame followed the yellow line instead of the crook there is now, you might have enough room to peacefully bring the center two exhaust pipes out without too much hacking or flow disturbance.
I mgiht even tempt some like this. It will give about an inch more room for the pipe to clear but not leave your upper control arm unsupported.
Well we took the 550 blaster out for a spin. The power is really not all that bad... its very usable. The current gearing gives you power at any RPM so the atv really only goes as fast as you want it to... It can do a pretty mean drift... trail riding could be done with only first and second gear. 3-6 are just for fun. I took the blaster around the back lot a few times.. my test pilot tried all 6 gears next to the road... It has a very very nice sound with open headers. I'll be buying the parts for the next stage of the build tonight: Swing-arm pivot rebuild kit, new chain, pod filters, carb jets... I'm also looking at stock pipes off newer bikes... a set of used stock cans from a busa can be had for under $60... I don't know if it would be too quiet .. or too big though.. I could always cut them open and remove some baffle.... I might look around a bit more. Let me know if you guys have any ideas. I:I
It was pretty much an engine with wheels... no fenders or anything.. the rear plastics were on to hold the battery that also acted as a seat. The gas tank was just sitting in the frame.
lol i drove my s210 like that when i got my 350 in it no fenders gas tank bungee strapped in da bed radiator bungee strapped on lmao seats not bolted in no dash haha it was funny my dad and i took it around the block like 4 or 5 times idk what the cops would of done we had no tags incurance or hell even lights hooked up haha
Dude, props. Holy crap that thing is badass sounding. I wanna see a video of somebody rippin it up on that thing when its finished. Wow.
Anyone know HP specs on the engine hes got in there?
Looks like somewhere around 50 from what I can dig up on the net. Wow. Thats about as much or more power than a piped banshee with proper jetting. And it has a much meaner powerband. Damn son.
Anyone know HP specs on the engine hes got in there?
Looks like somewhere around 50 from what I can dig up on the net. Wow. Thats about as much or more power than a piped banshee with proper jetting. And it has a much meaner powerband. Damn son.
What did you end up doing with those center two pipes?
It sounds wicked with no mufflers but it might get a little annoying after a few minutes of riding it like that LOL.
It sounds wicked with no mufflers but it might get a little annoying after a few minutes of riding it like that LOL.
I really thought about what you said. I cut some test fit bars and after a few hours of looking at the frame again... I made a executive decision to mod the pipes. I did not have to takes wedges out like I thought I would. I just made 3 or so cuts with the cutting wheel and slowly curved/tacked the pipe. The bar we talked about cutting out was not in the way.. the upper rear a-arm mounts were... this pretty much forced me to just change the pipes a bit.
As for the current status... I sent Bikebandit around $250 bucks
By Monday I should have air filters, swingarm pivot rebuild kit, DID O-ring chain, a selection of jets and a free BikeBandit.com 6" Magnetic Bowl 
. Once I lock down the swingarm I can finish welding up the four front motor mounts.Current build cost (includes the stock blaster parts):
$630
About only having to make 3 cuts to get the pipes out. I'm just curious about how much shoe horning is actually required to get this motor into the frame and all of the stuff buttoned up. Could be a killer swap if it's not too invasive.
Plus it's really fun to call people out with pics or you're lying...
Plus it's really fun to call people out with pics or you're lying...
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