Wiseco Piston Kit or Re-Ring ?

Blaster200boy

New Member
Aug 15, 2009
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Floyds Knobs, IN
Rebuilding bike. Lost compression from running too lean. Only about 3-4 months on piston. I had my mechanic rebuild it in August/September . If the piston doesn't have anything damage wise, do you think it'd be okay to just re-ring it? I'm gonna buy Genuine Yamaha Rings either way cause Wiseco rings don't seem to last long even though it was too lean.
 
If the piston is ok I would say your good to go with your idea... Seems like you got extremely lucky that you would have ring issues and not damage the piston at all.
 
if you currently have a wiseco piston you need wiseco rings.....you must not of had it tuned right ......i have 6 yrs on my wiseco and still have 120psi......
 
Thanks yb for the redirection... I wan't quite sure. Indeed... Find a new mechanic or just ask on here about proper jetting
 
if you currently have a wiseco piston you need wiseco rings.....you must not of had it tuned right ......i have 6 yrs on my wiseco and still have 120psi......

Yea yb200 is right Wiseco have there on ring style so you cant use different rings they have to be wiseco ring only.
 
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I would re-ring it. check the cylinder for any deep marks, might need to do a light hone on it.
 
I would re-ring it. check the cylinder for any deep marks, might need to do a light hone on it.

I here a clacking noise when i hear it idle and a load click when i rev it. It has had 2 (two) top ends bored .20 over. Every time it is honed, does it take that much off to make it clack around? I am deffenetley gonna hone each time. Should i just bore it over another size up?
 
i have been told that a good rule (for a well jetted engine) is that generally you will go through two sets of rings for each piston.you have to inspect the piston, but they will last a long time. my friend has a 2003 blaster with 350-400 hours on it and it is still on the stock top-end-- nothing has been apart. however, before the thing was even started it was rejetted to a 270 main w/ open airbox and gutted stock silencer and the oil-injection was removed and they mix Klotz R50 32:1 with ethanol free premium gas. I do not have nearly as many hours on any of my blasters but they have not yet been apart and I have only recently removed my oil-injection (maybe 10hrs ago w/ 32:1 Supertechniplate) and switched to 110 lead race fuel and I have over 100 hours on mine (with three blaster i get to spread the love).
 
I would re-ring it. check the cylinder for any deep marks, might need to do a light hone on it.

i agree but i have been told that every time you re-ring you should do a light hone to scuff the cylinder. you will also need to do a light break-in with some heat cycles and a little riding at reduced and varying throttle levels to get the new rings broke-in to the cylinder. this is very important and often forgot when working with new rings.
 
i agree but i have been told that every time you re-ring you should do a light hone to scuff the cylinder. you will also need to do a light break-in with some heat cycles and a little riding at reduced and varying throttle levels to get the new rings broke-in to the cylinder. this is very important and often forgot when working with new rings.

When i got my re-built back in August-September, he told me to just ride easy for about an hour off an on varying your throttle. and then about an hour later you can run as long as you like and as fast as you like. As far as piston and rings, Should i get a Wiseco Piston and Rings, or a Genuine OEM Yamaha Piston and Rings. I've heard that the OEM lasts a really, really, long time.
 
The Wiseco rings are very good, I have beaten the hell out of the Wiseco piston and rings on the dyno, ,like over 200 pulls without piston or ring failure
I would use a micrometer to measure the piston, when they get hot from lean or over timing the piston skirt will collapse. Check your ring end gaps as well.
I set blaster engines for .0035 to .0037 inch clearance
I would also suggest a quick hone to help re-seat the rings
I break in my own engines on the dyno. I am much harder then most people during the break in. I make 3 light pulls on the dyno, and then it cool down. I re-torque the head and cylinder base nuts. I make 3 more light pulls and re-torque. At that point I hammer on the engine 3 times. Cool down and hammer on it again. Most of my own set ups are for drag racing so the life of the rings and piston is short from the exhaust port design and engine speed.
 
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The Wiseco rings are very good, I have beaten the hell out of the Wiseco piston and rings on the dyno, ,like over 200 pulls without piston or ring failure
I would use a micrometer to measure the piston, when they get hot from lean or over timing the piston skirt will collapse. Check your ring end gaps as well.
I set blaster engines for .0035 to .0037 inch clearance
I would also suggest a quick hone to help re-seat the rings
I break in my own engines on the dyno. I am much harder then most people during the break in. I make 3 light pulls on the dyno, and then it cool down. I re-torque the head and cylinder base nuts. I make 3 more light pulls and re-torque. At that point I hammer on the engine 3 times. Cool down and hammer on it again. Most of my own set ups are for drag racing so the life of the rings and piston is short from the exhaust port design and engine speed.

Thanks Kennedy. Help appreciated. So get Wiseco rings and piston. rep coming your way......