Will not start

blasterboricua

blasterboricua

New Member
Nov 15, 2009
45
1
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florida
Ok so over the weekend i took my bike to the woods, it was ryden preaty good untill it shot off on me.. So this is what i have done so far... Pull flywheel off clean the magnets had sum rust residue, spray the coils with electrical parts cleaner, pull carb out did a rebuild kit on it have a 300 jet on it, has vforce reeds stock carb, and from what i was told when i bought it it waz bore to .25 over. The bike turns on but shuts off on me so is ovious that i have spark but im thinking it might not be strong enough. What to look for please help!!!!
 
Does your blaster still have the Throttle Override System (TORS) still installed and hooked up? Check the top of your carb, if it has a cap like most bikes (other than stock blasters and banshees), then it is removed and its not that. If there is a giant junk box sitting on top of your carb with wires coming out of it, that is the TORS/idle control mechanism. Check to see if the wires are still hooked into a connector that is then wired into the wiring harness. At the handle bar, check if there are wires coming out of the throttle housing that then go down under the hood to a connector and then into the harness. If all of these things are intact, then your TORS system is still hooked up and it could be malfunctioning. It is supposed to sense if the throttle gets stuck open. If the throttle gets stuck open, the TORS system will cut spark. However, it often malfunctions and thinks the throttle is stuck open when it is not, and then you cant get the bike to run. A good sign of this is when you kick the bike over, you get one spark but thats it. So it fires once, but then blurbles out and wont idle.

There are some other threads on how to disable or remove the TORS system. In a nutshell, you can either order a TORS removal kit from either Vito's for around $45, or Dennis Kirk sells a Moose Racing kit for around $65 that comes with an anodized trick looking carb cap and a stainless braided throttle cable. The Vitos kit just comes with a plain stamped carb cap and regular throttle cable. Both kits come with an idle screw kit, you have to drill out the hole on the riders left side of the carb and then tap it with the supplied tap, you then install an idle screw since the idle control will be eliminated if you remove the TORS control box on top of the carb. The other, less expensive (free) option, is to simply disconnect the cables coming from the control box on top of the carb, and then disconnect the cables coming from throttle as well. On the 87-02 models this is sufficient, but on the 03-06 models, the wires have to be cut and spliced together.
 
Have not pull the reed cage yet to check when i do pull them out what am i looking for, it has a new plug..compression i dont have one but for the most part i put mu thumb on the plug hole n i blows my finger out of the hole,...

The tors box is still there but the actual electric switch is not there,the kidd i bought the bike off of said that it was better without it so the bike since it dont have the switch it dont idle i have so sit there with my thumb on the gas the whole time im ryding it, the bike dont have n ignition swith either
 
you're looking for any warping, chips, cracks, anything like that, the reeds need to sit down and seal to the cage.



i would go through your wiring and make sure everything is ok
 
I see, if the wires are disconnected then its not that then. But, the bike should still be able to idle, on top of the TORS box on top of the carb there is a big flat flat-head screw, you should be able to adjust the idle higher by turning the screw to the right I believe. Its a pain because you pretty much have to remove the gas tank to get to it, but it would be worth it to not have to feather the throttle all the time. Or, you could get a kit like I was talking about and get rid of the whole system, this makes the carb much more accessible for other adjustments. If money is tight, you could also just buy the idle scew kit, drill/tap the hole on the left side, adjust the big screw on the TORS box all the way to the left so that it lowers the slide all the way down and then use the idle scew you install from the kit to override the TORS idle adjuster.
 
But far as the immediate problem, how new is the plug? Brand new or just recent? When you put your thumb on the plug hole and kick it over, did you lay the plug on the head and visually check that it is sparking? Meaning after you remove the plug from the head, plug it back into the boot and lay it sideways on the head so that it grounds, then kick it and watch the plug to make sure the spark is strong. Even if the plug is recent, it wouldnt hurt to try a brand new one. Also, is it the bike in the picture? Its not a new model(03+) is it? I agree with the last reply, go through and check all the connections in your wiring. Also, make sure your grounds are making good contact. There is one in the front under the hood, and there is another one that grounds to the frame where the coil is mounted next to the TORS controller/carb. Make sure they are nice and tight and that they are making contact with bare metal, no rust or dirt.
 
Yeah the bike is a 2000 i check the ground where the coil is mounted on and hit the frame with sand paper. I have to check the one under the hood.the plug is a brand new one i put 3 of them in total while making different test.. When i pull the plug out n had my finger on the plug hole i dont see spark but when i put the pug on the plug hole n put the boot on it you can hear the bike turn on but shoots off..
The bike dont start every time tghou it starts after a few kicks then shoots back off
 
Last edited:
Hmm.. again, it definately sounds electrical, and to me sounds like TORS but you said its been disconnected. Usually, a bad ground will not let the bike spark at all, but not always, so there is a slight chance it could be the ground under the hood. Again, check all the connections, that ground, make sure the wire going from the harness to the coil is making a good connection and isnt caked with dirt/debris. If the key switch is gone make sure any splices or added grounds are still connected.
 
anyone with a picture of where the frame round on a yfs 200 is at am looking at the manual and all its saying is that the bike has a groud for coil,one frame ground cant seem to find the such called frame ground..
 
ok so i pull the reed cage out n found that one of the reed flaps was broken..is there any fixture to this dat i can do at home..the valve is a vforce reed and im kinda thinght on money, do they sell this carbonfiber in a sheet
 
If money is tight get yourself a set of boysen reeds. The ones on the v force should be replaceable so you should be able to swap out the v force for the boysen reeds.
 
I think you mean the valve/reed cage itself is a vforce aftermarket cage? This would mean that you would have to replace the reeds with the correct reeds for this cage, I don't think the Boyesen RAD valve reeds and the Vforce, Vforce2, or Vforce3 reeds are interchangeable. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure you dont really have a choice but to shell out the dough for the right reeds to fit the specific reed cage you have. The only other thing would be to find a used stock reed cage with decent reeds still on it. I dont think you will be able to find a sheet of carbon fiber that would work. Those reeds are not only a certain shape and size, but the thickness of the reeds is also engineered and designed for its flex characteristics. I would just save up some money and buy the replacement reeds that go with your cage/valve.
 
so the cabonfiber reed are .5mm thiknes , i found this place near by my house that they make any thinknes by any size u want the sheet of carbon fiber. so i figure i get a foot by a foot of it n give it a try trim the size i need n see how it goes from there.. also had a guy tell me to use stainless steel shim stock same thiknes too .5mm is as flexible n dont have to worry bout the carbon fiber braking n going in to the motor.. any other sugestions...thank you guys..
 
blasterboricua said:
so the cabonfiber reed are .5mm thiknes , i found this place near by my house that they make any thinknes by any size u want the sheet of carbon fiber. so i figure i get a foot by a foot of it n give it a try trim the size i need n see how it goes from there.. also had a guy tell me to use stainless steel shim stock same thiknes too .5mm is as flexible n dont have to worry bout the carbon fiber braking n going in to the motor.. any other sugestions...thank you guys..
Click to expand...

I'd rather have my motor eat carbon fiber than steel anyday. The steel also is going to have a different flexiblity. Don't be cheap and get the right replacements. They are like 40 bucks on ebay.
 
I have to agree with above poster, it would be pretty cool and I would definately give you a high five if you were to make your own carbon fiber reeds, but how much is the sheet of carbon fiber? Then you need have the right tools to shape them/cut them/smooth the edges. Can it be done with a dremel without warping/cracking or otherwise messing up the carbon fiber? It seems like a whole lot of work/headache/risk just to save the 40-60 bucks to buy the right ones.
 
u guys r right but here is the problem my reed padels are double wih 2 mounting screws n all the ones i find on ebay have 3 padels with 3 screw.. should i go with sum vetos,boyesen or stick with the vforce...the carb is jetted with a 320 running no lid on my air box have a spacer on the reeds cage n im .25 bore over on my motor n im running a br9es plug on this thing... any sugestion in to wich ones to get...thank u guys
 
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