whats the difference between a rich bog and a lean bog?

so you are just tuning this new carb ??? if i remember right you had a stock carb with an ungodly sized main in it, 400+ or some chiat, hahahaaa
i'd try just turning the airscrew in a little to richen that pilot circut a little and bring them revs down quicker, if you get under 1 turn thats a sure sign to go bigger on the pilot, but try the airscrew first, 1 1/2 turns out is just a starting point, not written in stone
 
yeah i had a stock carb bored out to a 28 from ken, with a 450 main in 90*+ weather down in the desert of NC.
but i ust picked this one up a week or two ago. i should buy stock in keihin jets from the amount of times i have been to the local race shop for jets.
im gonna be down there again today and grab the next size up pilot to try.
thanks awk, and btw it has been around 50* - 60* lately, that what i have been jetting for
 
sounds like you have it close, just needs some final tweaks,
is that shop letting you exchange those jets ????
i was surprised my local cernics suzuki parts guy mentioned that to me one day, to bring the ones that didnt work back in, and they'd exchange them for bigger or smaller ones, otherwise i'd prolly have every jet keihin ever made while getting this 34pj dailed in
 
if you have a 28 pwk then you have a great carb to start with, (mikuni TMX are garbage, tuning nightmare) check the float level and make sure its in specs also try switching needles, i know alot of you dont think the needle even matters or does anything but its actually the most important link to fine tuning ;)


here how it works people, +4 i hope this helps you brotha

1) First letter is the Taper wich affects the transision from the needed to the main jet. So it has an effect around 3/4 throttle.
The C is going to be leaner in that area then the D

2) The second letter is the needle length changing this is like changing the clip position. When you all out of adjustment ethire all the way lean or all the way rich. You put in a shorter or longer needle and reset the clip position to the middle.

The G is going to be a longer than the E so it will be leaner wich length effects the entire spectrum that the needle controls

3) The last letter is the diameter. The diameter effects the transition from the pilot circuit to the needle so around 1/4 throttle.
The K is a smaller diameter than the L so it is going to be richer than the L.


sounds like you have already messed with the clip position, main and pilot circuits so id give a CGL or CEL a shot, report back with what you come up with.
 
they only let me exchange one jet so far but that one was a duplicate to what i had so i didnt use it. but the jets i have so far i will use all of them.
and i have a jjh needle in it, how would those other needles you said compare to the one i have would they be leaner or richer?
and how much of a difference would there be between needles?
 
going from a g** to the dgh made a huge difference with my rich "stutter" < lemme word that correctly, hahahaa

i actually looked on cpw.com, got the phone number and called them, that dude knows his shiat, and suggested that needle, works like a champ !!!!!
/\/\ give that a try, that needle you have sounds rich
the lower the letter, the leaner the ...taper ???? "A" being leanest
 
alright fellas, got the biatch ripping like a cheetah on crack.
160 main
52 pilot
middle clip position with same needle.
revs down like it should , starts and idles for as long as i want, and rides like a mutha fugga!
thanks everyone for your help