What blew my motor (a survey)

What caused my motor to bite the dust

  • Air leak/lean seize.....You were warned

    Votes: 4 66.7%
  • Piston Broke........it was weeks ago when we told you that noise was piston slap

    Votes: 1 16.7%
  • Big End bearing went......Sorry that noise was rod knock guys

    Votes: 1 16.7%

  • Total voters
    6

deeeebeeeeee

Member
Aug 20, 2015
367
128
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Rossville, Ga
OK this is more of a game than a question, if you don't know what's going on with my bike by now,then either you don't read the forum or you ignore my posts because you don't have time to read a page of jumbled thoughts, layed out in even more jumbled sentences.? Do I use sentence form? Whats that. Lol

I will give some info.
It did have a massive air leak and a massive main jet
It did have an unsettling noise. That i noticed weeks ago after my youngest came up the hill in first gassing it to redline then letting of until it got down to about 6 or 7k.
I was as WOT when it died.
This is my first two stroke although I have been wrenching and learning for the last 25 years.

I already pulled it apart as far as I could and have absolutely no doubt what caused the problem.

The answer and pictures tomorrow night.

As far as the motor being toast I am not too upset as I am surprised it run as long as it did being as it was so cobbled together, I was already preparing for a rebuild. I also knew that putting the Toomey on it might be more than it could handle.
 
don't have time to read a page of jumbled thoughts, layed out in even more jumbled sentences.? Do I use sentence form? Whats that. Lol

you definately do give the most detailed posts of anyone on here, with color commentary thrown in.
I read every word for some strange reason :)


Holly 750 double pumper sized jets masking an airleak for the win !
 
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Thanks, there is nothing I hate worse than those, I bought a blaster (I think it's a blaster) it doesn't run, what's wrong with it? Kind of posts.

It's like we'll it could be 50 million things what's it doing?

Well it just won't start.
2 days later
Guess no one wants to help me... wah wah wah
 
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I think I read you were at a 310 MJ or higher with that DG pipe ?? I vote air leak. Thankfully when these guys warned me I most likely had an airleak when I first came on here I listened, bit the bullet and dropped a grand into her to make it right. Although KOR is a 12 min drive from my house so I didn't have to do anything but get the best damn customer service/ bike rebuild ever.
 
No engine load, and unsettling noises....i'd say big-end or piston that threw in the towel:D
I've ran with an huge airleak for quite some time, didn't melt the pistono_O (huge main jet, and i always ride WOT)
But i'm deffinately curious for the outcome Deeeebeeee!
 
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OK I can hold it in any more, I had a 370 main jet in for the toomey, and then found out that the missing chunk the carb cap lined up with the cutout on top of the carb and was not sealing at all, so I stuffed it with high temp gasket maker and let it sit, took it for a lap around the yard and it was running really rich. In the meantime I had also pulled the flywheel and stator plate and checked the main seal, as well as moved the timing back a bit closer to stock (1 1/2 to 2° advance over stock).
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So even though, it may not have been completely leak free it was now running quite rich, and not longer had the major leak.
I had my little girl on the tank "she demanded I take her for a ride" and it was loading up bad, so I nailed it in first, eased off to shift, realized that I had alot more rpm and power to go (because of the new pipe, rimming,etc), so I slapped the throttle back open, and when I actually tached out first, I slapped second (real dry loose dirt and gravel on top of really hard clay).
A second and a half later it lost spark, and rolled another 10 feet up the hill tile it quit with a clank, clank. When I let off the brakes and it didn't roll backward down the hill I knew I was in trouble.

Found this (first pic below) in between the threads and insulator of my sparkplug. Thankfully when the piston dropped the exhaust side skirt, a piece almost immediately fouled the plug. I would hate to think what would have happened if it would have been wide open pulling 8k or so when the pieces starter getting between the crank/rod and the case and binding the motor up.
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The piece by itself sacrificed it's life as a piston skirt to snear up and shut the motor down, before there was any sign of what was going on. I would like to thank this little piece of cast, and celebrate its efforts as heroic.

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Here is the poor used and abused piston, it was wet and oily when I pulled it, the scoring was caused by a defective exhaust flange.
There are some well washed out signs of the dome being hot in the past, probably from when it was running a 230 main jet without and airbox lid and with a DG pipe as this is how the previous owner had it jetted

When I pulled the flange to fix the leak, I found that the little pipe had been welded into the flange crooked causing the pipe to stick out just under 1mm and hold the bottom of the flange out away from the jug. Funny thing is it didn't have aNY kind of a seat that fits the inside of the exhaust gasket like the Toomey does.

The first time I had it out for a long trail ride, and put it through a puddle a little over the foot pegs deep on the way back to camp, it got tight on me and was hard to kick after sitting for a couple minutes. I let it sit another 20 minutes and then rode it easy for a little bit before loading it on the trailer. I fixed the leak and put another 10 or 20 hours on it since. (It's hard to keep up with the half hour or so rides around little valley in my back yard)
I am really beginning to wonder how this motor ended up with a new wiseco bottom end, a Pro-X piston (ART S1), and a cylinder wall that fit's it soo loosely, the piston w/o rings drops straight thru without any resistance, and rattles around like its got an Extra .010" clearance.
It's like it blew, someone honed it out and dropped in a piston, something else went wrong (cracked skirt) and took out the bottom with it. So they got a Wiseco ready to install crank, standard sized cast piston, honed it out again and threw it together.

Anyhow the cylinder wall looks good. I gotta split the cases and get the rest of the piston out of my motor (new main bearings and seals while I am at it). Sent the top off to KOR for head rechamber / cylinder bore, hone, chamfer, and a forged wiseco. Before it goes out its getting the KOR home port treatment.
This will go along, with the 28mm miKuni VM, boyesen power dual stage (?) reeds, Toomey B1, high power coil.

Before I tore it down I did leak test, the case was now leaking through split between the case halfs at the bottom front come to find out this is also where the chunks of cast were wedged in between the rod/crank and the case. I don't think it was leaking from here initially ,because other than a little grime from the header leaking splooge, it was pretty clean.
3 or 4 hours after the incident, when I sit it up on the rack to plug the exhaust port. I noticed a good bit of thick kinda bronze brown stuff had actually seeped from the case. Sure enough when I pushed the foot pump, air and more of the bronze brown lube from the bottom end came running out as fast as I put it in.

So I guess it's Dropped skirt due to excessive cylinder wall clearance and scoring due to the exhaust header not sealing to the exhaust port.

I also found the clutch plates to be around 70% worn with the exception of a friction or two just below the middle was worn nearly smooth I did notice the steel plaTE tabs were nearly aligned in this area?
 
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Bad thing that it blew, now a fresh new start with a new and faster engine;)
And now you'll know exactly what you got,so no more worries of any worn/ out of spec. parts.
But i don't hope that the crankcases are messed up, hope the brown/ bronze lube isn't dirty old transmission oil...but just some 2-stroke oil.
 
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Bad thing that it blew, now a fresh new start with a new and faster engine;)
And now you'll know exactly what you got,so no more worries of any worn/ out of spec. parts.
But i don't hope that the crankcases are messed up, hope the brown/ bronze lube isn't dirty old transmission oil...but just some 2-stroke oil.

No kidding, I have been encouraged to "do it right". As bad as I would like to pull just one side of the case and the seals to clean out the pieces of casting from the cases and main bearings, it would save me fighting to get the inner clutch basket off, and from pulling the trans, especially since it quit running and simply stopped before really grinding the shattered bits up really good.
But i know even if I replace the main bearings, I will be worried about this and that. I figure if I were to take a short cut to save 40 or 50 bucks and an hour of work, I would be so worried about each and every ltitle thing that I will at the least not enjoy around 28 rwhp like I should, (results from a KOR home port blaster dynoed in Oregon) at worst I will drive myself crazy and freak out every time me or my boys miss a shift.
Point is Peace of Mind is Priceless
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