wet blaster barely runs
- Thread starter Blackplague
- Start date
There is no red wire. Are you talking about the orange wire that connects the coil to the harness. I just went through all the diagrams even the supplimental one- no red wire used from Yamaha. That orange wire goes to the CDI/Tors controller. Here is a diagram. Sure sounds like a plug boot issue The stock ones are good for not sealing cracking, Look into one of these- NGK 90* boot they are $5 LB05E Part number 8031. But i just tore the tors unit off of my next build and found it full of water, seals were all good, not sure how it got in there, maybe check that also!
There is no red wire. Are you talking about the orange wire that connects the coil to the harness. I just went through all the diagrams even the supplimental one- no red wire used from Yamaha. That orange wire goes to the CDI/Tors controller. Here is a diagram. Sure sounds like a plug boot issue The stock ones are good for not sealing cracking, Look into one of these- NGK 90* boot they are $5 LB05E Part number 8031. But i just tore the tors unit off of my next build and found it full of water, seals were all good, not sure how it got in there, maybe check that also!
hey slick quick question... does flipping the rear rims gain any width to the rear end?
Never tried it but I don't thing so, I think u would loose offset is on the outside of the rear rim, that's why it is "deepdished'
kicked the sh*t out of it seemed like constant spark had 2 ppl watching it seems to be drying out which sucks because i want to solve the problem so i can take my blaster to new riding places without worrying about it getting screwed for a day till it dries
There is no red wire. Are you talking about the orange wire that connects the coil to the harness. I just went through all the diagrams even the supplimental one- no red wire used from Yamaha. That orange wire goes to the CDI/Tors controller. Here is a diagram. Sure sounds like a plug boot issue The stock ones are good for not sealing cracking, Look into one of these- NGK 90* boot they are $5 LB05E Part number 8031. But i just tore the tors unit off of my next build and found it full of water, seals were all good, not sure how it got in there, maybe check that also!
yeah the orange wire it was full of water and im sure whatever it connects to is full of water this is crazy it was only being hose washed wtf you would think the bike idling would dry out the wire problems
There is no red wire. Are you talking about the orange wire that connects the coil to the harness. I just went through all the diagrams even the supplimental one- no red wire used from Yamaha. That orange wire goes to the CDI/Tors controller. Here is a diagram. Sure sounds like a plug boot issue The stock ones are good for not sealing cracking, Look into one of these- NGK 90* boot they are $5 LB05E Part number 8031. But i just tore the tors unit off of my next build and found it full of water, seals were all good, not sure how it got in there, maybe check that also!
im looking at the diagram what is the carb switch?
huh that sucks.... i think u just have to trace alllllll the wires and disconect all the connections and clean them....i think thats the only way
np glad to help I:I
yea. the magneto is kinda unlikley now, because it sparks everytime u kicked it. and if ur lights are working, than its not the mag... i still think its the coil.... check every wire that connects to the spark plug and the plug boot. also u can try to unplug the wires that connect the key and kill switch, and run the engine with one of those disconnected or both, and rev it up.... if it dosent stall at 70%, u may need a new or at least cleaned kill switch or ignition..... worth a shot.... if it dosent work, tna atleast u know its not those parts aahah
check this video on youtube sh*t sounds exactly how my bike sounds but my parking brake is disconnected at the handle bars i didnt do it so it may have been done half ass whatever happens when this parking brake sensor is on could still be happening when the wires arc somewhere in the harness how can i full remove this option so there is no possible way this is the problem?
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Carb switch is part of TORS system. 02 and older all you have to do is unplug wires from box. 03+ you also have to splice a couple wires. Pull stator cover and see if you're getting water in there. As already mentioned clean ALL connections and grounds using dielectric grease (not bearing grease) Look at plug cap closely, squishing it between fingers looking for small cracks. Unscrew plug cap from coil and trim 1/4 inch off and install cap with dielectric grease. Also try as mentioned of disconnecting key and on/off switch because they go to ground to kill engine,
its an 03 alot of wires are unplugged i pulled of the cover on the shifter side and it had moisture in it and the cable running to it was full of water
Ok, use a hai dryer to dry it out. Where the wires go from plastic sleeve/tube to wires wrapped with tape spooge some silicon in there after it's dry. Inspect cover and gasket for bad spots. Consider new gasket or little silicon on both side. Complete ALL other suggestions.
Ok bro, I'm back answer to first question yes the stator(magneto) can get water it in, pull the flywheel cover off and inspect. The cdi is a sealed unit highly unlikely.
Number two to take the parking brake switch out of the equation, just unplug it! that's all there is to it!
Here is a how to disable the tors on a 03+ blasty!
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-tors-removal-diy-41973/
i think u just have to guees and check.... meaning inspect ALLLLL the electricals from bars to rear brake and BEYOND!!! (lol little buzz light year there) and jsut see what u can find.... its hard to track a problem if its electrical espeally online
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