vforce 3 reeds

no need to really cut or grind anything,you can simply pop that little stuffer out of the reedblock,remove the reeds from the block and you will see where the stuffer goes all the way into the reedblock,just push on the stuffer from the reed side it should pop right out no cutting no grinding
 
no need to really cut or grind anything,you can simply pop that little stuffer out of the reedblock,remove the reeds from the block and you will see where the stuffer goes all the way into the reedblock,just push on the stuffer from the reed side it should pop right out no cutting no grinding


/\/\/\ i tried that when my vf3's were interfering with the wrong "pro design intake" it did not work for me, and had very poor top end, almost like petal flutter, not to say it wouldnt work for some, or possibly a stock motor, but did not on my ken oconnor motor
i modded the vf3 cage by cutting the "nozzle" from it, reinstalled the "stuffer block" and cured all ailments, IMO the stuffer block is needed
so yeah, either piece can be modded without harm, but i'd leave the stuffer, the boys at mototassanari know what their doing and that block serves a valid purpose, what it is in theory i dont know, but firmly believe if it wasnt needed they wouldnt waste the time, effort, and moola making and installing it
 
dont do this ^ no need to. just cut the lip on the carb boot

So sorry, I must be getting feeble in my old age, yeah the lip is on the carb boot not the cage and they're actually pretty beg lips that extend INTO the stock cage. There were some simple instructions that came with my VF3's explaining how to do it. I may even have the instruction laying around if you want 'em.
 
So just so we are all on the same page ( I am installing mine as well today). What you cut off is what the #1 arrow is pointing at correct? You do not have to modify the area around the opening that the #2 shows correct.

2h6g4cl.jpg
 
correct /\/\/\ just cut that lip (#1) completely off the stock intake,
the directions show you how, and brand new vf3's come with bolts/nuts and washers for spacers, and explain how to use a hacksaw blade to cut that off
next time i'm down my garage, i'm pullun my instructions to copy to here, i'd do pics, but no longer have a stock intake for show and tell
 
I didnt buy my setup new so I didn't get any of that. Is there a need for spacing the boot from the reed cage? I was going to just put it straight on like the factory.
 
cut that lip, and smooth with sandpaper, be sure to clean with carb cleaner then, and just bolt it straight to the cage, if not the inner stuffer block can push back/out when pressure builds,
it needs held in by the intake
 
the built in rubber on the stock intake should compress as you tighten everything up, i'd say bolt it up, then do a leakdown test, as should be done with any engine gasket work
 
I had VF2's on my blaster before I put my ported stock cage back on with Boyesen Carbon Fiber reeds and I believe I had to do the same thing. No biggie...you can just trim it back a little bit or I just took a hand sanding block with 80 grit and sanded it down real quick.
 
So just so we are all on the same page ( I am installing mine as well today). What you cut off is what the #1 arrow is pointing at correct? You do not have to modify the area around the opening that the #2 shows correct.

2h6g4cl.jpg

Yeah that's it, I used a fresh razor blade on mine - no sanding or risk of scraping the remaining surfaces with the teeth on a hacksaw blade. It'll cut like butter so do use caution.
 
Yeah that's it, I used a fresh razor blade on mine - no sanding or risk of scraping the remaining surfaces with the teeth on a hacksaw blade. It'll cut like butter so do use caution.

i did the same exact thing, the rubber piece was soft enough to cut straight through