Used head and cylinder.

[deeeebeeeeee]

OK I picked up a used head and cylinder, for a whopping $23. According to the seller the diameter of the cylinder reads just under 66mm with a cheap micrometer. The seller stated that the piston had been ceased in the cylinde, due to not having any oil in the tank. I am hoping that when the time comes I will be able to use the piston currently in my blaster, it's a 98 motor on an '02 frame so I am betting it's been bored a time or 2.
Any reason I couldn't reuse the current piston and just punch out the cylinder I bought to match it?

Of course when It gets here i will verify the actual diameter of the cylinder and make sure it's not going to need a sleeve.
I intend on having the head chambered and the cylinder bored professionally, Either by Ken or someone near Chattanooga, TN that knows their stuff (If there is anyone).

I am seriously considering getting a (grizzly?) Motor head, flex shaft and hand piece and following kens videos along with usuing any other verified Information i can get on port angles, port timing, and port area or time area, in efforts bring peak rpm up around 1000rpm, without narrowing the powerband more than absolutely necessary. I expect this will require a good bit more studying on my part, as well as some reliable guidance. I can only be a willing student.
And get a spare head ahead of time in case I really screw the pooch.

I want to make sure they are fit to use.
What else should I look for?
Are their any known problems with the stock top end?
Places that I should watch out for cracks?
I saved the pictures, which is just a top and bottom view, but for some reason, I get an error when i try to upload them from my tablet. But here is the link if anyone wants to glance at them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331638826785?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[joeak47]

I highly suggest that you purchase Ken's porting templates. Formerly race logic. Send the head to Ken for a "Hemi" re-chamber, and port your own cylinder using the templates.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Thing is $110 for the templates, $65+ for the basic power head and handle, plus another $40+ in carbide, and diamond bits, mandrels, etc. This already brings a DIY port job above the price of getting Ken to do the port when I get him to do the rechamber and I still lack a right angle handle and experience to truly do the job right.
If i had other friends with 2 strokes or the intention of doing just a few blaster cylinders, the sport port would be the way to go.
But for those with a working knowledge and understanding of mathematics and physics, and the desire to truly learn what makes a two stroke march to a particular beat, the information is out there and one can learn what works, if they are patient, and have a bit of guidance.
I would much sooner invest the money in more or better tools or learning material, than spend it on one uniform template and not learn a whole lot more than how to handle a carbide bit.
I would not be satisfied with simply cutting to specifications, without knowing and understanding what each cut is for, what it does, and why it matches the needs of the motor i am trying to create.
I will have two cylinders to play with, if I did a sport port on the first and decide that's great but I could do with a little less on the bottom, or the power band is a bit wider than I had really need, maybe I want a little more on top, or when decide to go ahead and get That 34mm carb, and so on and so forth. The only way I will be able to cope with or work toward and these changes is with jetting or maybe trying a different pipe, unless I take the time to learn what is what, I can onlay take shots I the dark and ruin untold amounts of cylinders, pistons etc. Or throw money at it and have some one do it for me.

The fun and the challenge comes for me when, I can build it and ride it for a little while, then when I come across a deal on a bigger carb, or a different pipe, I can get it throw it on and tune it and ride one weekend. Note the differences and needs of the new setup. Then for the cost of a gasket set and a couple bits, port it to better suit what i am running. Moving slowly, mapping each effort, and having a spare cylinder laying in the corner, just in case I go to far or cut to much. Pretty much limits the cost of screwing up.

I seriously doubt I will ever build a super fire breather, run higher than 93 pump gas, or build one so hot that it looses power as it gets heat soaked. My intention is simply to gain knowledge, and to have something to do that is challenging enough to keep my interest.
I got a feeling that, after I run in that first self worked motor, I will end up spending a ton in gaskets and rings swapping from one cylinder to the next or end up with a wall full of jugs, as spares for 4 or 5 different 2 strokers.

Sorry to ramble, it could just as easily go the other way, maybe I won't be able learn enough to do anything noteable, or maybe noone shares their hard earned knowledge or even gives me the guidance to avoid making big mistakes, could be that my hand or patience just isn't steady enough and I end up botching one cylinder and paying to have the other done, and just enjoy riding?


Anyhow back my original quedtion, other than taking measurements and specs of the "shiny parts". Which is outlined I the Yamaha service manual, is their anything particular I should look out for?

 

[joeak47]

Sounds like you answered your own questions... Send it to ken.

 

[joeak47]

Or just keep it stock and save your cash.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

I don't think my tweak and tune addiction would allow me to leave it stock, lol.
Most definitely going to get Ken to do my head
Hoping to find someone local to do the bore.
Plan on folllowing Kens advice on diy porting, and Initially clean it up and change only a little.

Then, I plan to find a deal on 30-34mm carb as well as a mid-high rpm pipe. Draw on available works, modern turning software, and whatever trustworthy guidance I can get, and redo the unused cylinder to match the intake and exhaust I end up with.

By that time the blaster will be an antique, and my grandkids can step off their electrolysis/ H2O powered, 500 volt brushless motor powered bike. And hop on a flame powered, vibrating , smoking, beast, complete with 6 finite gears, and a hand clutch.

Lol,

 

[joeak47]

If your going to have Ken do your head, you might as well use a slightly bigger box, seeing that your shipping the head anyway, and send him your cylinder too. The reason I say this is because most local bike shops, at least where I'm at, SUCK when it comes to "Turn around time".
As far as I'm concerned a month + is WAY TOO FRICKEN LONG no matter what the machinist thinks or says. This is why I do all my own work. Ken has a quick turn around time and get this... actually cares about doing the job correctly. That's priceless.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

If your going to have Ken do your head, you might as well use a slightly bigger box, seeing that your shipping the head anyway, and send him your cylinder too. The reason I say this is because most local bike shops, at least where I'm at, SUCK when it comes to "Turn around time".
As far as I'm concerned a month + is WAY TOO FRICKEN LONG no matter what the machinist thinks or says. This is why I do all my own work. Ken has a quick turn around time and get this... actually cares about doing the job correctly. That's priceless.

So noted and that makes good sense to go ahead and have Ken do the cylinder and head, that way the head can be matched to the cylinders bore.
As far as squish height, I imagine measuring the deck height, and the cylinder height frpm face to face. Should get me in the ballpark, I will have to see how he wants to handle it when the time comes.
For now I got my fingers crossed that the sleeve in the cylinde I bought is untouched the head is straight, and the plug threads are good.

 

[joeak47]

The blaster has eight (8) over sizes that it can be bored to. You'll be fine. As for the head, as long as the spark threads are good (most likely they are from what I can see in the photo's). As for flatness of the head, don't worry about that, because you machine a lot of material off when re-chambering.

 

[jus_me]

For the head rechamber YES send it to Ken, For the Porting, dont be afraid,,, if you have concerns than follow the video closely and go from there. Whilst you are testing/riding the new porting you have done do some homework and study/ read as much as you can. The more you learn the better off you will be. Mistakes happen, its part of the progression of learning. Your best bet would be to find a roached out cyl and just use it for practice and getting used to the tools themselves and how the burrs cut etc...

A simple dremel with a flex shaft should do you well.. A red/blue magic marker, vernier caliper, depth gauge, scribe, and allot of reading/studying (Gordon Jennings, A. Graham Bell) and most importantly A PLAN. Start slowly and cut less than you think, try it out and go from there.. No risk no reward, but learn as much as you can so you wont have to make so many mistakes. Most info is out there on port timings/rpms but you have to look for it and you will have to do your math/homework. Exhaust timings and shape of exhaust port play a big role.

I will say that when you do your homework and learn why and how and then do the work yourself , it is self satisfying. Sending your cyl out having it ported etc and having it back in just over a week is also satisfying.. If you like to learn , make mistakes, learn from your mistakes, and like to experiment than by all means give it a shot.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

I am actually getting pretty excited, I have a rc heli ready to sell, the pieces are on their way, I got the ok from my better half to invest I some tools, won't be long, I will be able to get them sent out.

I think it might be to my advantage to have Ken cut the head for a squish band clearance, on the safer side of the tolerances.
It looks like I can drop the head by .018" with a thinner head gasket and maybe, .010 with a thinner base gasket.
I don't know about thicker head gaskets, but seems you can add to the band with a base spacer. To do this I would need to use 2 base gaskets for a minimum addition of .020 x2 -.030 = .010 plus the spacer thickness.

I need to find out how to best go about getting the measurement for the deck height and piston clearance.
That way i can get a good tight squish band clearance. I can always lap .001-.008 thousandths off the mating surface of the head or the base to get the right SB clearance.

Other than that it's just a matter of starting on the jug, by first cleaning up the easy stuff, I have a good bit of experience with rotary tools of all kinds, precision work, as well as various grinding and cutting bits wheels etc. Havent used the carbide bits alot tho.

getting a real Drexel and some bits today, that way I can get the flex shaft kit and know it will fit the tool. Might go ahead and get the whole deal if it's cheaper I a kit.