Totally stumped---misfire problem

[little_bob_e]

Hi all
First off Im new so thanks for reading. Any help or info is immensely appreciated. I have read thru almost every thread on here trying to figure this out, as well on some other sites, and still have no clue. This is what happened:

Was riding one day. Everything was fine. Ran thru some shallow rivers a few times and the bike started to sputter. Realized the breather was underwater so I zip tied it to the frame and all was good. After filling with fresh gas I started going again and it just died. Nothing. I tried kicking for a long time and nothing. Pulled the plug and it was fouled. Got a new plug and still nothing. Thats when i went into diagnostic mode. The ohm meter showed no resistance in my stator wire. SO I got a new stator. Tested perfect when I got it. Put it on the bike (at a few degrees retard timing, which i realized later) and it ran funny. I took the flywheel back off (this time without a puller) and i adjusted the timing to stock. Started it up and it misfires. Hard hitting on what seems like every other cycle. After ripping apart the wire harness to make sure the tors system wasnt still causing problems (which is now totally removed, along with parking brake sensor) I was stumped. I then decided to check the magnets on the flywheel. Upon inspection they had cracks through them. AHA! or so i thought. I read some more and ppl were saying they reverse polarity when cracked which would cause misfiring. So i got a new flywheel. Magnets were perfect when I got it. Put it on and nothing. Absolutely no change. Bike idles, but hard. When i attempt to give it gas it seems like it wants to but is bogging big time. So last thing i could assume was the cdi box. Got a new one too. No luck. Nothing I do is changing a thing and im just pouring money in. Even had a friend who has built many banshees and blasters check it out. He has no idea what else to check.

So thats my shpeal. Thanks for reading and if anyone has even the slightest thing to test or try please please please help. I havent went riding in two months and Im starting to really get frustrated.

Lastly, TORS system has been taken out. I oringially bypassed it and connected the brown and yellow wire by the carb. Bike was fine like that. Then when all this happened I went thru the harness and took out all the wires and the brain and everything to ensure it wasnt the problem. In doing so I took out the parking brake sensor cause that was said to cause idle problems. However, the wire going into the brake handle is still there, just the clip is not connected to anything. Is that ok?

 

[Awk08]

sounds like you got the tors and park brake deleted properly, but what year is this ?
it had a seperate tors box under the hood ? (88-02)
but most of those did not have a parking brake switch ?
usually only 03+ had that ?


have you checked....
the reeds ?
coil and plug wire ?
black wire ground at the coil ?
4 or 5 wire stator and how many on the new one ?
disconnect the key and kill switches one at a time to eliminate them as the cause ?
it's possible you flooded the bottom end of the engine with water ? it will not start if full of fuel or water

 

[little_bob_e]

sounds like you got the tors and park brake deleted properly, but what year is this ?
it had a seperate tors box under the hood ? (88-02)
but most of those did not have a parking brake switch ?
usually only 03+ had that ?


have you checked....
the reeds ?
coil and plug wire ?
black wire ground at the coil ?
4 or 5 wire stator and how many on the new one ?
disconnect the key and kill switches one at a time to eliminate them as the cause ?
it's possible you flooded the bottom end of the engine with water ? it will not start if full of fuel or water

sounds like you got the tors and park brake deleted properly, but what year is this ?
it had a seperate tors box under the hood ? (88-02)
but most of those did not have a parking brake switch ?
usually only 03+ had that ?


have you checked....
the reeds ?
coil and plug wire ?
black wire ground at the coil ?
4 or 5 wire stator and how many on the new one ?
disconnect the key and kill switches one at a time to eliminate them as the cause ?
it's possible you flooded the bottom end of the engine with water ? it will not start if full of fuel or water

Thanks for the reply Awk. The bike is an 02 and yes it had both. From what i have read the 02 is a weird year. IT had a seperate TORS box under the hood.
I just bought new reeds also, i forgot to add that. The black ground on the coil i have taken off and cleaned and recconnected. The thing about the stator. My old one was 4 wire and the one i got was for an 02 they said but had 5 wires, the extra being a green. I grounded it to the bolt under the seat holding on the rear plastic pretty much right by the coil and carb. I noticed that when i disconnect the black from the stator it doesnt change anything and still starts, but with the green disconnected it doesnt work. Is that normal?

I tested both the key and kill switch on my initial attempt to diagnose and both were fine. I also discconnected them to be sure and bike didnt start, so they are ok.

I think it may actually have water in it or too much fuel from trying to start it over and over. But it DOES run just very poorly and i cant give it any throttle. It just bogs. Would it run at all if it were flooded or it wouldnt even turn over? And how do i check or drain it other than taking off the head? The only drain plug i see underneath is the tranny i am assuming. Thanks again for your help. I have hope again

 

[Awk08]

to drain any fluids in the bottom end, remove pipe and spark plug from cylinder and kick it until your leg hurts
what brand stator ?
we've had numerous reports of the Rm and ricky stator's being junk right outta the box.
a known working stock stator or ricks motorsports is your best bet.

yes the green wire needs grounded when using a 5 wire stator to 4 wire harness, good clean connection there ?
try connecting the green wire to where the black wire is on the coil ?

 

[speedyslyder]

whats the compression?,and you aligned it up with woodruff key? if you went in water that deep could be some lerking in your engine.

 

[little_bob_e]

IT was an RM stator however before I got it I had no spark and it wouldnt run at all. Once I put it on it had great blue spark and runs. So i know that my old stator was bad and this one is good.

Speedy* The compression is around 90 first kick then up to 120-130 on 2nd to 3rd, should be good. Woodruff key is good and in tact, flywheel is turning properly while running.

The only other variable I can think of is the timing. Since it was an adjustable timing plate I had to do some research on where the proper mark to align zero with is. Does anybody know where zero is supposed to be properly aligned? I am 99% sure I have it right but just trying to let you guys know everything thats going on.

If there was too much fuel or water in the bottom end, would it burn out after enough idling? I have heavy heavy smoke coming out while running and when I pull the plug, its got what looks like a ton of oil on the plug, however draining the gas, it comes out blue like normal, not overly gas rich. Could this be because of extra fuel in the bottom end?

 

[speedyslyder]

its going to be really hard for anyone to help you on here with that RM stator....cuz that is probably your problem.Or at least 1 of them.

 

[Blaaster]

At idle oil accumulates in the crankcase and will add to the oil already in there.

Drain the carby, pull the plug out, open the throttle wide and kick until your leg hurts.

This should Purge the oil from the crankcase.

Now go through the starting procedure again.

You can only move the timing a few degrees either way and although it may not run well it should start and idle wherever the timing is.

Do not let the engine idle for too long, blip the throttle occasionally to purge the bottom end.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Ohm coil and plug cap seperate. Trim 1/4" from plug wire, install with dielectric grease. Make sure "nut" on plug is tight. The problem with those stators is they work, up to a point.

 

[little_bob_e]

Thanks again everyone for the continued help. I ohmed the cap and coil and readings are within range. I am going to try to purge any fluids from the crankcase tonight. Hopefully that helps. Like I said though it does run just poorly, which makes me think it is a timing problem. But I'm just lost

With the stator, I know the rm ones don't have the best rep, but this one tested good with the meter and also produces good spark, so I'm pretty confident it is in working order

 

[Blaaster]

http://www.rmstator.com/en/atv/yama...ster-200-stator-high-output-75-watts--rm01091

I did some research on the stator plate.

if the one you have is the one above, then it has a +/- 10 adjustment.

Installing it with the holding screws in the middle of the adjusting slot should give stock timing.

 

[Larry's Shee]

With the stator, I know the rm ones don't have the best rep, but this one tested good with the meter and also produces good spark, so I'm pretty confident it is in working order

I wish I had a dollar for every RM stator that tested "good", but wold mis-fire at higher RPM. Very, very common with Banshees, and now becoming a problem with Blasters also.

After exhausting all other possibilities, try a known good stock stator.

JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

 

[little_bob_e]

I wish I had a dollar for every RM stator that tested "good", but wold mis-fire at higher RPM. Very, very common with Banshees, and now becoming a problem with Blasters also.

After exhausting all other possibilities, try a known good stock stator.

JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

Thanks guys. I double checked and my stator plate is in the correct position for stock. And Larry, not only did it test good, but it caused the bike to run once i put it on. It is a misfire thru the entire rpm range, and wont allow me to rev it. I am going to try to purge any extra fuel now and give it another shot, but if anybody else still has an idea I am still all ears. Would like to go riding this weekend. Thanks

 

[Larry's Shee]

Have you cleaned the carb and air filter since it's "bath"?

What breather did you zip tie ????

 

[little_bob_e]

Well just got back in from trying again. I took off the exhaust and took out the plug and kicked and kicked. some fuel came out. The expansion chamber had a LOT of fuel in it. It was def dumping fuel through the exhaust. However, unforunately, after reassembling everything, there is no difference. It still seems to misfire. I pulled the plug and checked the spark again and I am getting perfect spark every time the piston comes up. It runs like a misfire but I am seeing spark. But the excess fuel suggests misfire too. I have no idea whats going on. Please keep the comments coming and thanks everyone

 

[little_bob_e]

This is a link to another bike i found on youtube and its doing pretty much the same sh*t. Except it doesnt die after a while. It will idle like that all day. This guy said he is on BF also. Now my question I guess would be how do I check the crank seals? I figured it would be leaking to the stator/flywheel area but I dont see any leaks.

 

[little_bob_e]

Have you cleaned the carb and air filter since it's "bath"?

What breather did you zip tie ????

Carb has been cleaned about 8 times since its bath lol. I kept swearing that was the issue. I just zip tied the float bowl drain tube up a little so it wasnt hanging straight down into the water as well as the set of tubes that come out from either side of the carb

 

[speedyslyder]

here's another thread telling people to get rid of generic stators read it

can you get your money back?

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-blaster-will-not-rev-not-tors-or-parking-brake.58769/

 

[little_bob_e]

here's another thread telling people to get rid of generic stators read it

can you get your money back?

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-blaster-will-not-rev-not-tors-or-parking-brake.58769/

It seems to me the new stator didnt fix his problem after getting rid of the junk one. Again I have wonderful spark on every upstroke. So how could it be the stator? It is delivering the current to the coil and producing necessary spark. I am starting to lean toward air leaks or bad crank seals.

 

[speedyslyder]

can you amuse us with any pics? Does it smell like it is burning tranny oil? How did you get the flywheel off without the puller i want to know lol