Thoughts on this trade?

yamaha28

Member
Apr 8, 2011
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Just curious to see what you guys think of this trade. I am not going to tell you what I think about it right away. I like picking your guys brains so to speak. haha

So what he (my neighbor) wants to trade me is his 1994 Honda Accord 4 Door with 137,000 miles. It needs paint obviously, he had it professionally primed and sanded, but then they never got around to finishing it and the rear wheel arches started rusting again. It needs that body work done, and new master cylinder, one fan on the rad is loose and floppy, new antenna because it won't roll up or down, and various little things like that. The engine runs phenomenally! Nothing wrong with the engine whatsoever. I like the car because I love tinkering with cars as of recently, so this seems like a perfect start.

He wants a blaster to trade the car for. He doesn't care how it looks, or what aftermarket parts it has on it. Just as long as it has a strong engine, and decent tires.

So would you guys do this trade?

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Personally, I wouldn't. There's too much rust there, that would make me nervous. If its that noticeable on the outside I can imagine what it looks like underneath. I wouldnt consider this particular vehicle to be of equal or greater value than a good running blaster with some work done to it. But if you're looking for a fixer upper you've got a good start. Lol
 
Personally, I wouldn't. There's too much rust there, that would make me nervous. If its that noticeable on the outside I can imagine what it looks like underneath. I wouldnt consider this particular vehicle to be of equal or greater value than a good running laster with some work done to it. But if you're looking for a fixer upper you've got a good start. Lol

yea that is a lot of rust, not unfixable though. He is asking $800 for it if I don't trade him for some kinda blaster. I was hoping to find a blown up blasty for cheap and rebuild it for less then that $800
 
Holly body cancer. POS

i'll second that !!

remember, thats a uni-body car, which the body is the frame, and that one is about ready to bust in half

thats gonna take more than some sheet metal/rivets and a can of tiger hair to fix,
that needs all the cancer removed and new metal welded in, or it's just gonna keep getting worse and worse
that is the typical spots for the honda's to rot

if ya have a spare, running, but sh*tty looking $4/500 stockish blaster,
need a car and not afraid to fix that properly...
go for it
 
If your comfortable replaceing both quarter panels than go for it. You could patch it but you will never get it perfect. I fixed many rust buckets in my days so i speak with experiance. Thats a hell of a lot of work. Better off getting another body for that motor.
 
i'll second that !!

remember, thats a uni-body car, which the body is the frame, and that one is about ready to bust in half

thats gonna take more than some sheet metal/rivets and a can of tiger hair to fix,
that needs all the cancer removed and new metal welded in, or it's just gonna keep getting worse and worse
that is the typical spots for the honda's to rot

if ya have a spare, running, but sh*tty looking $4/500 stockish blaster,
need a car and not afraid to fix that properly...
go for it

Yep, that's the plan. I am going to buy the replacement panels that fit there, cut out all the rust and a little more for good measure, then weld in the new panel.

If your comfortable replaceing both quarter panels than go for it. You could patch it but you will never get it perfect. I fixed many rust buckets in my days so i speak with experiance. Thats a hell of a lot of work. Better off getting another body for that motor.

It doesn't seem like a lot of work in theory, cut all the rust out, get a new panel specific to that car, trim it down, weld it in. Am I missing something? I am sure I am, because I don't really a whole lot about this, not a lot at all.
 
do not trim any replacement panels until you cut out the bad sh*t, chances are, the bad area is bigger than it appears
 
do not trim any replacement panels until you cut out the bad sh*t, chances are, the bad area is bigger than it appears

Oh yea definitely! I would pop the wheel off of whatever side I am working on, assess the damage, then start cutting off the bad stuff. Then after I am all done I would trim the panel to size.
 
That looks like a typical Michigan Rot Rod :o. Where you at? Remember, you can't weld to rust!! Well maybe with 6011, but sheet metal doesn't arc weld very good. I'd have to need a car worse than a ratty Blaster before I'd ever trade.

JMHO, your results may, and will vary I:I
 
That looks like a typical Michigan Rot Rod :o. Where you at? Remember, you can't weld to rust!! Well maybe with 6011, but sheet metal doesn't arc weld very good. I'd have to need a car worse than a ratty Blaster before I'd ever trade.

JMHO, your results may, and will vary I:I

Where am I? Not Michigan! :p

I don't want to weld to rust, I want to take the rust out, then weld it to the good stuff.
 
I was gonna say only if he kicks in enough money to get it all painted. But I dont know much about honda's except 200,000 miles is pretty much their limit engine or body reguardless. That and where they rust thats about average for that year of a honda but nobody ever said average was acceptable eather. I'd skip it and sit on it if he does anything else to it.
 
I was gonna say only if he kicks in enough money to get it all painted. But I dont know much about honda's except 200,000 miles is pretty much their limit engine or body reguardless. That and where they rust thats about average for that year of a honda but nobody ever said average was acceptable eather. I'd skip it and sit on it if he does anything else to it.

Yea but I am trading him a crappy looking blaster! The blaster would be worth probably around $800 or so. What car can you find for $800 that has less then 140,000 and no rust?
 
As a general rule, never own a Honda that has previously been owned by anyone under 30 years old. That's applies to the ones that appear to be in good condition. The only reason this should even be considered is if you just want to learn to do the body work. If that's the case, take it from someone who's already made the mistake of under estimating the cost and time needed to do something like this. Go over the car from bumper to bumper, top to underside and write down everything you see that isn't 100%. Then price the replacement for each thing. Then think about raw materials; sand paper, masking tape, welding wire, gas, body filler, paint, primer, thinner, hardner, sealer, under coating, cutting disk and so on. Take the cost of everything and add 50% (to cover the cost of everything you missed/under estimated) to it. That will get you close what you're going to spend out of pocket. Then compare that number to what one in good condition can be bought for.