Switch assy loose

Yfs

Member
Jun 11, 2015
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The switch asay thing on top of the carb is loose. Does that whole switch assy box thing screw onto somewhere?
 
The tors brick and screw cap are one unit. Once the cap is tightened down, the brick should not be able to move. If it moves, it's not sealing properly which can also cause an air leak. The best solution is to tighten the cap and see if it stops moving. If not, the best thing to do is get the tors delete kit. That will solve a ton of headaches involved with the tors brick.
 
The tors brick and screw cap are one unit. Once the cap is tightened down, the brick should not be able to move. If it moves, it's not sealing properly which can also cause an air leak. The best solution is to tighten the cap and see if it stops moving. If not, the best thing to do is get the tors delete kit. That will solve a ton of headaches involved with the tors brick.
Where can I get one and how much do they cost
 
Ebay, amazon, rockymountainatvmc. The kit starts around $40 comes with a new cable, cap, drill and tap and idle adjuster screw. Than follow one of a few posts here on blaster forum for the tors electrical removal.
 
Ebay, amazon, rockymountainatvmc. The kit starts around $40 comes with a new cable, cap, drill and tap and idle adjuster screw. Than follow one of a few posts here on blaster forum for the tors electrical removal.
What does that do to my electrical stuff
 
The tors will limit your throttle should something go wrong. Usually the tors goes bad for no reason. If you have a pre 2003 model, all you need to do is remove the the tors brain from under the hood than get the elimination kit for the carb. If you have an 03 and new model, you will have to cut and ground a wire coming from the ignition box. Not sure off hand which wire. I would have to look it up.
 
the 03 and up you just cut the tors wires coming out of the cdi (solid black and black with yellow stripe) and then splice them together. Nothing else has to be done but you should get the eliminator kit.