stroke demystified
- Thread starter phragle
- Start date
I think I was running 17/38 on the it, you got the 4 speed? you can drop the it 5 speed traany stright in if you can find one. also look into having the head recut by one of the old school engine builders, they big yammies had bad pinging and detonation problems in high gear under load, reshapping the head fixed it right up. you will like the 5 speed tranny if you can find one
couple more tricks get an aftermartket antivibe stem, then replace the urethane parts with real rubber, and a caulk tube full of silicon sealer and fill the bars with it
couple more tricks get an aftermartket antivibe stem, then replace the urethane parts with real rubber, and a caulk tube full of silicon sealer and fill the bars with it
As in more equal HP vs Torque? or a more even power band???
Short stroke engines make more HP in the upper RPM's and less torque, long stoke engines make more torque in the lower RPM's with less HP.
It's 5 speeds stock and the head is re-chambered I:I
I'm been thinking about getting those Fast anti-vibe inserts as a future mod.
if you have the urathane antivibe bushings take them to the autoparts store and try and match them with some ruber ones. rubber abosrbs vibes MUCH better than urethane
ok i understand what you guys are talking about. im in the boat right now of what im gonna do to my motor 240bore but like phragle was saying it will be a heavier and bigger piston which will make it even more un "square" or stock with a stroker crank and port and head rechambered? wich one is better i want power in all ranges? any give me an idea of what i should do?
on a blaster dont worry about throwing it further from a square motor ..the bigger bore is definitly what you want ...adding a little more stroke like 3 or 4 mm is good it helps lowend off idle torque and balances things out ..anymore stroke is a waste plus you wont fit it without epoxyed/welded case modifications as the rod would protrude through the case bottom after trenching it would need for clearance ,porting the jug correctly in the transfer area will yeild more crankcase volume on a big bore ..you really need that so its not choked out at high rpms .sadly some builders ive seen dont even put a tool to the underside of a blaster jug at all ,the la sleeve kit is designed with a lot of good ideas most people dont think of as it already has the area and adjusts for this volume requirement
ok got another question i really dont want a 240bore just seeing how everybody has it is there any way you could take a standad bore cylinder and make it some what keep up with the vitos 240 kit unported? like port head rechamber and a stroker crank, or is it just impossible? and since hot rods is closed currently can i take there standard crank and put a 3mill rod in it?
A good ported stock cylinder with the right pipe and head mods will hand an unported 240 a whoopin.
yeah totally agree , a properly ported stock jug will easily whip a 240 vitos unported one in a race if its dialed in correctly
what kind of pipe would you sugjest? what kind of port style and head would i need to accomplish this?
I would send in for Cyl, head reshaping, lower it giving higher compression my blaster is running 1.5mm overbore ( happend to be this at the time) with 170psi, on stock stroke, with slight modding done to the intake and exhaust ports. And it hauls ass...
Now I've been wondering. How exactly do you de-bore and engine? Do you fill in the sleeve with epoxy or something and drop the smaller piston in?
