Somthing horribly wrong, engine died? help?

[japdeathtrap]

2005 Blaster, had it for about 3/4 of a year. has TORS delete, oil injection delete (just running mixed gas), has aftermarket header, muffler and air-box has a hole in it. I think we found that it has the stock jetting configuration.

anyway the thing has pretty much been running like a champ since the TORS delete back in january, and one time earlier this spring, I had a condition where it would not idle, what so ever, just died and stayed dead and could not get it to run after cranking. I believe all I did was re-seal the clamps that held the header to the muffler, its like the leak of exhaust caused the problem.

So fast-forward to yesterday. I did nothing more than ride it to my friends house like 100yds away and once it hit the top of third gear there was a huge hesitation like there was no fuel, and it immediately became hard to keep it running, it started shuddering, popping and died.

Just like the condition a few months back, I could spray some starter fluid, choke it and it started but then immediately dies like it does not want to run.

So then I took it home, took the carb off, emptied the fuel and took the bowl off the carb, cleaned it, then took the spark plug out, cleaned it, sprayed some ether in the spark plug hole, made sure all the seals were nice (vacuum leak prevention), and the new hose and clamps on the exhaust were tight.

it started up and idled clean, and it ran like a champ through 1st, 2nd gear and again, at like the top of 3rd, or 4th gear it just wanted to die again, felt like no fuel, and then wouldn't even want to stay running. I ended up having to push it home.....its dead..

Any ideas on whats going on? im starting to think maybe the spark plug is bad, and Im also going to get some fresh fuel and good quality pre-mix oil.

 

[dirtysquared]

If you have an aftermarket exhaust, and stock jetting, your definitely starving it for fuel at WOT. Hopefully running it so lean didn't do any damage to the cylinder. If it's not starting at all now, do a compression test to see if you have any. If you don't, do a leak down test too before you Rio he motor down to see if an air leak was a factor as well.

Anytime you change airflow in or out of a motor, re-jetting needs to take place to accommodate the changes. A plug chop should follow to confirm the jetting is on.

What type of pipe are you running, air box lid off or on, foam filter, elevation from sea level, and the temp where your located. Answer that stuff and I'll point you in a correct main jet range.

 

[chad hommes]

I rebuilt my 01 baster piston new jug n carb it start first kick I gas it shuts down idle low

 

[bummer981]

Never use starting fluid on a two stroke, it has no oil for lubrication.

@chad hommes Start your own thread, thread jacking is a crime.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Cleaning the float bowl is not the same as cleaning the carb. Need to take it completely apart, including the main jet holder/emulsion tube. Blow compressed air through all holes. Set float level (saw no mention of it).
Check that the fuel cap vent rattles and that vent tube is not plugged.
Remove fuel petcock and clean it. Might as well clean inside of the tank also.

 

[japdeathtrap]

Tried new gas/oil mix, (dumped all the old fuel out). put in a new spark plug and it cranked right up and made it about 20 ft. It died again in the middle of my yard.

its like once it gets past idle and into climbing RPMS it gets this hesitation, and then from there it is just struggling to stay running. once it dies its impossible to get it to start again.

I know nothing about these carbs, (tuning / setting the internal parts of it). I re-jetted a dirtbike carb once, and I installed the TORS delete in this carb last year and it has been fine.

should I just buy a brand new carb?

 

[japdeathtrap]

So...made some progress, but it died AGAIN!

Took the carb apart, cleaned the float needle, and toothpaste polished & cleaned the parts accordingly to the stickies in the carburetor section. I checked the float height and it was 20mm.

also put a new piece of hose on the exhaust header - to - silencer connection and went back in with new clamps. it WAS super tight.

Drove it all day yesterday, we spent a good 2 hours on it and it was running just fine. Then later I drove it back over to my neighbors house to grill out, and it straight died halfway there. pulled it back home and now its the same thing all over again.

So I'm thinking that maybe the carb body could be wiggling free of the intake and the filter neck and creating a vacuum leak. Also my clamps on the exhaust are all loose and dangling off. I guess I'm going to go get some constant tension clamps and try those and then maybe some for the carb.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Make sure the vent on gas cap is free. Pull petcock valve from tank and clean the screen, clean inside of tank. Clean carb again, make sure vent tubes on carb are open.
When you have it apart, write down what jets are in it. You mention pipe, but have never mentioned which pipe or what jets you have.
Is air filter clean? No indication of dirt in carb or above slide (bad gasket) ?

 

[japdeathtrap]

stock jetting, stock air box but lid has a 1" x 3" hole cut in the top and a foam filter.
has an aftermarket header, it looks like the stock one but is shiny SS. muffler is a DG. no idea if that really makes any difference... i have read that it really doesn't until you have a more modded intake and free flowing exhaust and have bored over.

kind of funky that it was all fine after cleaning the carb and all of a sudden went bad again after cooling down. this is why i suspect the exhaust leak, or vacuum leak. because of heat cycling. and the clamps were so loose they were almost dangling off the exhaust so thats my first order of business.

 

[Blaaster]

The boring of a 3" hole in the air box may need a larger main jet to be fitted, as the airflow will have been increased.

With an aftermarket pipe, pre mix and holes in the lid you should be looking at a main jet size of 280 -290 plus.

Plug chop to confirm the jetting.

 

[japdeathtrap]

Also I have the TORS delete kit. But the idle adjustment screw does not work I should probably check that screw and put sealant on the threads.

I have been setting the idle with the throttle adjustment on the handlebar, but that probably does not make a difference because its the same as if the slide was setting on a screw.

plug chopping sounds like a waste, I'm going to buy an ear telescope and look down in the plug rather than cut it up. Seen that tip on Finnegan's Garage life hacks episode. its what he uses to read plugs.

BTW I'm sick of this thing. Im getting it in good running order and selling it asap. or buying another Quad. probably a banshee or a 450R

 

[dank 2 strokes]

Rebuild the top end?

 

[Blaaster]

BTW I'm sick of this thing. Im getting it in good running order and selling it asap. or buying another Quad. probably a banshee or a 450R

If you cannot come to grips with a Blaster, forget about a Banshee, 2 of everything, plus fluid cooling.

If you know what to look for and know how to compensate for the difference in the colour of the smoke ring, then cutting off the threads is really not needed, but it is the preferred method.

 

[japdeathtrap]

what makes me shy away from the idea that the jetting was off is that it ran absolutley perfect after I had cleaned and re-sealed everything.

 

[japdeathtrap]

Update:

My reeds/ diaphragm are broken. I took off my intake manifold rubber boot and found that they had fallen into pieces.

What needs to be done here.

So far, I guess i need some reeds, and also a carb rebuild kit with new needle, jets/ etc. and I will also get a 270 or 280 main jet.

 

[japdeathtrap]

T

Thanks for the tips. please help me figure out what is going on, your pretty much the forum go-to-guy for this kind of stuff....

I got a carb rebuild kit that came with every possible part, gasket and o-ring for the internals of the carb. I also purchased and added in a #290 main jet.

I replaced the broken reeds with boysen power reeds, and then re-set the air/fuel screw back to 1.5 turns, calibrated the throttle linkage so i could see at what part throttle the bogging would happen.

on the 290 main jet the bike starts and only stays idle with me being slight on the throttle and/or having the choke in. we spent more than an hour trying all types of different setting on the air/fuel screw, and needle height. we even tried going back to the 230 main, and setting both the needle and air/fuel screw back to richer settings.

the only way I can get the bike to a (crappy) but stable idle is with the 290#, needle in the middle setting, and air/fuel 1 turn out. I can even ride it around....BUT!!....at 50% throttle or more it starts to die out and bog. and looses all power....funny enough it comes right back to the idle though....so its not dieing out completely like before, but still basically not fit to ride.

Finally, I broke down and went to harbor freight and bought a compression test kit. I had the carb off at the time and secured all the fittings, with 10+ kicks as hard as I could.....only like ~60 on the comp. gauge. ONLY 60! And its still running and driving...how is that possible? does it sound right?

so does this mean my engine is done? I undid the bolts to the head cover and the copper gasket at the top of my piston looks fine. the piston is black & covered in carbon. the cylinder walls as far as i can see do not have any major scratches. it did sort of feel like an rough spot right at the top ... im just not sure. the piston did feel like it wiggled a little bit as well...if im exaggerating it at least has some play.

 

[jbuckster07]

while the harbor freight gauge is decent, I would try to find a buddy that has a better brand, like snap on or mac tools. I have seen someone use a harbor gauge read 85 then a snap on read 135, guess which one we trusted.

If its bogging at 50% throttle I would assume its still a tors problem! Thats the whole purpose of the TORS. The brain might be thinking " OH NO!! He let off the throttle but its staying wide open! Guess I better override everything and bog the engine out!" (not exactly how it works, but you get the idea lol.) Are you sure you followed the 2003-2006 tors removal guide??? Not the 88-02 guide? They are completely different!!

 

[Larry's Shee]

I recall someone getting a HF gauge and it tested 60psi, no matter what he tried it on. Craftsman is the cheapest gauge I would trust!
Have you done a leakdown test since reed replacement? The reed cage has a tendency to warp and leak if overtightened, or not in stages.

.002- .003" clearance will wiggle a bit. You either need to aneal the head gasket or get a new one now that you have taken it apart. Then you have to heat cycle it after assembly!!!!

 

[japdeathtrap]

I recall someone getting a HF gauge and it tested 60psi, no matter what he tried it on. Craftsman is the cheapest gauge I would trust!
Have you done a leakdown test since reed replacement? The reed cage has a tendency to warp and leak if overtightened, or not in stages.

Ok, so when I am looking at the new reeds, the round flaps do not tightly seat against the square part of the reed. maybe I did over tighten? I could probably take them back off and flip them over. and make sure they stay flat. What i am trying to describe is that i could probably stick about a 2mm feeler in between the reed as it sets.

Also I am going to take back the HF comp. tester. but I did do a leakdown test finally and the motor is holding pressure, the psi goes down, but so slowly that you literally can't tell until, its at least ~1 psi per 2 min. And I sprayed soapy water all over the place and did not see one single bubble. even on the head cover gasket.

at the top of the cylinder wall, right above the exhaust port, I can feel an inperfection in the wall. its smooth, but feels kind of like recess. very smooth but not even. and the cylinder cycles up past that point.

Even after inspecting all of this. the bike will start and idle somewhat. even rev up to mid range