should I change my cylinder base gasket?

[blasterfun]

I forgot to recheck my torque on the cylinder base nuts after a top end rebuild last year and went for a ride.
It stalled at the dunes then I noticed one of the four nuts was missing and another was loose.
Alone and 3 miles from camp I decided to tighten the 3 remaining nuts and try to limp back in first gear.
It started right up immediately and luckily and thankfully no one died.
I shouldnt have been riding alone.

Now my question what would you all do? Take it all apart and inspect if all is well then change the gaskets? What damage did or could have happened?
The cheap guy in me says to throw a new serrated flange nut on there and maybe get lucky and all will be well. Does anyone get their nuts from Home Depot? I read that the cylinder head and base nuts are all m8 1.25 difference being added washers and non-serrated nuts up top. Are these special hardened nuts from Yamaha?

Its a 95' with an FMF powercore 2 silencer and a K&N air filter. Just tryin to keep it running.

Thanks !

 

[Blaaster]

Buy a standard nut, torque all nuts to specs and do a leak test.

If it passes the test, run it, if not you will need to replace it.

It may pay to check the compression reading because ridin with an air leak may have damaged the piston.

Pull the pipe off and look up the exhaust port for signs of ring damage

 

[blasterfun]

Thank you Blaaster!
I have a compression gauge and will check that after replacing the base nut.
My fingers are crossed as the slow ride back felt like nothing happened and was a tempted to take a chance and gun it.

 

[blasterfun]

So I replaced the cylinder base nuts with some larger 13mm as opposed to 12mm serrated flange nuts
m8 x1.25 for .25 cents each. Didnt get around to the leak and comp test and decided to apply a soap solution to the cyl base to observe bubbles if it starts.

It now wont start. It has no spark when kicking over and grounding spark plug to head.

Using the svc manual, completed the electrical checks for main switch, kill switch, plug cap and coils resistances which were in spec.

Not sure I want to take the wrap off the entire wire harness to check for grounding before moving on to replacing the CDI. The book says to check the wiring and maybe thats whats meant if a new CDI is not the cure.

About $11 on ebay.

The manual goes on to part 2 of troubleshooting the ignition and mentions the carb switch which i'm assuming is the tors system. Will a malfunction in the tors switch cause no spark?

 

[Blaaster]

Unplug the TORS wires from the carb and control box, this will disable the TORS