Shifting from neutral stalls engine

[GraffitiDan]

I bought a 2000 Blaster a few days ago, it was running fine and had fun riding around the yard. I cleaned the carburetor, changed the oil, changed the spark plug, and cleaned the spark arrestor. After doing that, I can no longer ride it. When I shift from neutral into first or second, even with the clutch fully engaged it jumps a little bit and stalls.

When the engine is running it sounds fairly normal. You can hear the piston and the exhaust. When you engage the clutch, you can hear something in the transmission either rattling or grinding ... lightly.

What do you think the problem is, and how do I fix it?

 

[jeff1005]

Check your clutch cable to make sure it is adjusted right.Do the adjustment on the lever first and if that doesn't work make sure it's in place the right way on the engine.

 

[GraffitiDan]

Check your clutch cable to make sure it is adjusted right.

When I first got it, it was pretty loose. So I adjusted it handle to be tighter. Now it's doing this. But when I have the handle fully depressed, I cannot manually move the transmission lever any further. Tightening wouldn't help.

 

[jeff1005]

You can gas it as you shift to get moving,but that really won't fix the problem.Did you add any crankcase oil?It can make things funny if you added too much.

 

[GraffitiDan]

Did you add any crankcase oil?It can make things funny if you added too much.

Yeah I drained the tranny oil. This Blaster has an oil pump eliminator. I added .75 liters yesterday, I checked the level and it looked good today. I added a bit more (2 oz) to see if it solved it, but its the same.

I'm guessing it's some clutch plates or something, but I guess it could be simpler?

 

[ruthless_one3k]

Theres an adjustment on the pressure plate of the clutch you may need to adjust it. Mine does this very slightly but I just rev it a bit and its fine. How much oil did you put in it, make sure its in the sight glass while the engine is running not just when its stopped

 

[GraffitiDan]

Theres an adjustment on the pressure plate of the clutch you may need to adjust it

where is the adjustment? is it a screw? do you have a picture?

 

[ruthless_one3k]

You have to take off the clutch cover and its a set screw with a locking nut in the center of the clutch pressure plate

 

[GraffitiDan]

You have to take off the clutch cover

Do i have to drain the oil to do that?

 

[GraffitiDan]

Ok so I popped off the clutch cover and it's not looking too hot. There were a good amount of metal shavings in the bottom of the cover. I'm assuming these were from a groove that was worn into the cover by I'm guessing the clutch blots. One of the bolts is missing.

There is a good amount of play back and forth on the clutch basket, and with the clutch plates themselves. The push rod also has a bit of play left and right, but it is not unscrewing.

The hand lever when I got it was fully loosened. I tightened it and got a bit more pull on the clutch. I don't know if that caused this problem, or if it was like this and it made it worse, or if it was a problem waiting to manifest.

So I'm wondering now, do I need to replace the entire assembly? Just the screw? And how do I adjust the push rod so I won't have my original problem (clutch not actually disengaging, causing a lurch forward).

Here's some pictures:

DSC00274
DSC00275
DSC00277
DSC00279

Movies:
MOV00280
MOV00282
MOV00283
MOV00283

 

[89custom]

edit: didnt read last post. oh sh*t man. mega bummer. hard to tell. that is acualy alot of play, seeing as there is normal close to non. so theres something else going on. right now, the clutch cover damage isnt going to do anything, but take off the clutch assembly and basket to see whats goin on behind it/internaly.

 

[CC&Fabb]

What I would do is just order the whole new clutch kit. You deffently need to get new press springs. You need to then adjust that center rod out more and that will reduce the play of the clutch disks.

Heres a link to a decent clutch. Your going to have to either get an screw to replace your missing one OEM or, take one to the hardware store and match it up.

http://www.motosport.com/atv/product/EBC-DIRT-RACER-CLUTCH-KIT/?prodId=28649&words=clutch+kit&srchHistoryURL=odchg5th||words~clutch+kit^parentCategoryID~category_root^categoryID~264^categoryName~ATV

I think that a bunch of your major problems could be that missing spring and screw. That means that there is not even pressure on the clutch disks and that will cause problems.

Also, if somebody hacked that clutch up that bad, I wonder what else is wrong with it. I would just check it over really well and fix any other problems you may have before they get worse.

 

[GraffitiDan]

Ok I guess I can get some new clutch plates. But to myself familiar about whats going on and what I'll need to adjust later, what would I do to get it adjusted correctly?

The service manual says:
With the push level in this position (clutch cable fully engaged), turn the adjuster (in the clutch) to align the mark on the end of the push lever with the mark (protrusion) on the crankcase.

The only protrusion on the crankcase I see near the push lever is vertical triangle ... but the alignment of the push lever is further forward than it, even when the clutch lever is fully disengaged.

Also I tried turning the push rod adjuster, but it doesn't seem to affect the push lever anyway. I guess I'm confused about how you actually adjust it.


Here is the push lever normally, fully disengaged. I think the triangle just to the right of it is what they want me to align with, but the lever only moves to the left.
http://www.screencast.com/t/CtRnZLAt

Here is the push lever fully engaged, even further from the protrusion.
http://www.screencast.com/t/8BdJxkFF

 

[GraffitiDan]

I took the bolts and springs off, and removed the plates. They look pretty good to me, although I don't really know what a good set look like either. Unfortunatley I found out that the reason there isn't a 5th bolt is because the clutch boss had one of it's prongs broken off.

DSC00288
DSC00289
DSC00290

Do those plates look ok? I'd rather just buy what I need (which to me looks like springs, bolt, and boss).

 

[89custom]

no those plates are worn to sh*t. defently replace those. i suggest the ebc clutch kit. i paid 60 bucks for it(without shipping) on ebay and its great.

 

[244blackblastard]

the reason you have that much clutch play in the basket is when you took off the remaining four bolts and springs and the cover what did the main big nut look like ? was it loose easy to turn out? i think that main center shaft nut came loose and that was the main problem. then the whole basket would have free play like you showed with your hand in the video pulling and pushing in with your hand. when it would slide out to end of shaft it would rub the cover and thats why you have shavings. make sure you tighten that center nut very well and it has the corresponding lock type washer to lock the nut from coming loose when you put everything back together.

 

[GraffitiDan]

the reason you have that much clutch play in the basket is when you took off the remaining four bolts and springs and the cover what did the main big nut look like ? was it loose easy to turn out?

I will check that out when I get home tomorrow. Just to be sure I'm looking at the right thing, are you talking about

1) the nut on outside of the pressure plate, #20 in the picture
2) the nut on the inside of the pressure plate around the adjuster, #16
3) some other nut

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