seasoned wrench But any do and don'ts?

[sr5bidder]

I have rebuilt: kdx200 2t, rm125 2t x2, xl350r, xt600, trx250x, atc70 and a xt350

I have a Blaster manual and plan the following in the morning:

clean up shop, tools and benches

take clutch and stator cover off

stick the trans in second

lossen the cluth nut flywheel nut and crank gear nut

remove carb and exhaust

remove engine

then continue to break down engine and split cases.

is there any do and don'ts specific to the blaster engine anyone could share with me or any tricky stuff a seasoned wrench could be stumped with?

one specific thing I have not done and I'm wondering about is the swing arm bolt that goes through the engine (on motorcycles I have always just suported the frame so it would balance when removing the engine along with driving a spare bolt in as far as the swing arm as to not lose alignment)

how to with blaster would be great!!I:I

 

[blasterdude14]

watch when you remove the swing arm bolt sometimes the whole rear end will just collapse immediately happend to me the first time i tore down. cant give you much advice beyond that though but hope i helped somewhat

 

[Blasterdude27]

Its pretty simple and straight forward. Good luck!

 

[sr5bidder]

blasterdude
been there,, I will try to find a suitable bolt to push in while the swing arm bolt comes out to aviod the colapse and only bring the swingarm bolt out far enough to free the cases but still hold the left swing arm in place while the spare bolt will hold the left

I supose blocking up the frame is something I should do to relieve the tension on the swingarm bolt

 

[blasterdude14]

ok you seem to know what your doing. more than i know at least lol. have fun

 

[sr5bidder]

well so far I have popped the head and found that Kustom kraft has done some thing to the head it has scribeing that says kustom kraft (looks like mild porting) the piston is .50mm over and the cylinder looks ok ...just glazed and no honing marks I will have to measure it out but prob end up going to 66.75 piston..
well back to the man cave

 

[sr5bidder]

well I got the engine out and the cases split crank stayed in left case and left case was easy to push the main bearing out by hand, I used my harbor frieghrt bearing splitter kit and a couple nice long m10x1.0 (i think) bolts to push the crank out of the left side case....

I did not remove the ballancer from the right hand cases... is there reason to??

someone was definitly in here before me...the reason for the crank main bearing failure IMO is the left main seal was pushed in too far blocking the hole that allows fuel/oil mix to be sucked through the main bearing therefor rapid wear on this left main bearing

the big end bearing on the crank is all present but is badly worn past specs......these engines are pretty tough ehh???

has anyone modded the engine by elliminating the ballancer shaft assy?? and just ballanced the piston and crank??

 

[stephen12091985]

while you have the cases split you should throw in a stroker crank

 

[1997blaster]

while you have the cases split you should throw in a stroker crank

if he has to buy a new crank i defanily would there about the same price

 

[blaster99]

the ballancer bearings like to wear out and the ballancer likes to eat into the case so imo i would replace the bearings or leave it out,but with it out it will vibrate much more

 

[sr5bidder]

whats the advantage of a stroker crank in a 2 stroke?

I don't think the effective stroke changes at all when you add 3mm to the stoke and a 3mm spacer. ( effective stroke is when the piston passes the last port on the compression stroke)

so unless the cylinder can take advantage some how of the longer stoke under the piston to charge the cylinder with more air/fuel.

Kennedy performance please let me know if its worth the extra $50

 

[sr5bidder]

well I've been looking around at cranks and have settled on the wiseco kit the price cannot be beat, it includes all of everything, except the counter ballance bearing i need
(6203) pretty easy to find... I'd figuer a company like vito's would try to make things simple also their vauge discriptions lead me to think chinesse bearings and such.

I'll get my performance by doing a squish band solder check and send head in for mods..