Rtv use in place of exhaust gasket???

[arc323]

Hello all,

I read somewhere that you can use permeated right stuff instead of standard exhaust gasket. I did this a It feels like my pipe is getting way too hot. Although I don't really have anything to compare it to...

Question: if there is any type of air leak on exhaust, will it overheat? Can you make a gasket for the exhaust with permatex?

2. I rebuilt my carb and read all the jetting guides, etc. I have tors on the bike. There is not an idle screw. Is this normal?

Thanks for the help here. This forum has been a huge resource for me!


Ps.. I'm a noob.

 

[Awk08]

no to permatex in place of the exhaust gasket,
yes to hi temp copper permatex in addition to the stock crush gasket if needed,
a new exhaust gasket must be used every time, they are one time use....crushed and done

an exhaust leak will create a lean = hot condition

the idle screw is on top of the tors box, accessed under the seat/tank

 

[arc323]

no to permatex in place of the exhaust gasket,
yes to hi temp copper permatex in addition to the stock crush gasket if needed,
a new one exhaust gasket must be used every time, they are one time....crushed and done

an exhaust leak will create a lean = hot condition

the idle screw is on top of the tors box, accessed under the seat/tank

Thanks for this info. I just ordered a crush gasket. Hopefully this is the problem and I did in fact jet my carb correctly.

Thanks again!

 

[Blaaster]

I do not know how long you ran the engine for without the gasket.

If you were getting very hot, it may pay to look up the exhaust port for signs of piston/ring damage.

Not being able to find the idle screw also leads me to believe that the mixture on idle would have been incorrect, this too can cause excessive heat.

To ensure that the correct AFR is delivered to the engine one must do all of the following.

Leak test, often.
Set float level.
Clean all jets/passages in carb.
Set idle.
Clean air filter.
Make sure that there are no leaks/blockages in either exhaust and inlet passages, including carb nipple and cap.
Check the fuel flows freely through float bowl drain whilst the engine is running.
Check tank vent for blockage.
Make sure the is no flooding.

 

[arc323]

I do not know how long you ran the engine for without the gasket.

If you were getting very hot, it may pay to look up the exhaust port for signs of piston/ring damage.

Not being able to find the idle screw also leads me to believe that the mixture on idle would have been incorrect, this too can cause excessive heat.

To ensure that the correct AFR is delivered to the engine one must do all of the following.

Leak test, often.
Set float level.
Clean all jets/passages in carb.
Set idle.
Clean air filter.
Make sure that there are no leaks/blockages in either exhaust and inlet passages, including carb nipple and cap.
Check the fuel flows freely through float bowl drain whilst the engine is running.
Check tank vent for blockage.
Make sure the is no flooding.

I only ran it for a few minutes before realizing it was too hot.

I went to auto zone and found a lead exhaust gasket with a steel center. I used a Dremel to make it fit. Then I used ultra copper 700 degree For extra protection. This REALLY helped! Now it runs what seems to be normal.

I have a dmc exhaust (not sure which one ). I am using a 230 jet and I have the e clip in the 2nd slot (I am in denver so I'm trying to adjust for altitude.

I found the idle screw on top of the tors and adjusted it.

Carb is clean, float level seems correct (22mm, right?), air filter is clean.

I'm going to plug chop again tomorrow while playing with the air screw. To make sure I'm all good.
This forum has helped me go from knowing almost nothing to getting the bike in good condition. I bought it from a kid who seemed not to know too much about taking care of it.

 

[Blaaster]

The float level should 20 - 21.5 on a stock carb, now set the idle as follows.

Idle adjusting.


Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

You need not touch the air screw again, except marginally if it bogs when giving it throttle.

The middle clip is the most common place on the needle.

If that is a DMC header pipe the you are way too lean with a #230 main, the pipe alone calls for a #260.

 

[arc323]

Awesome! Thanks Blaaster. That really sums it up for me. I will do this today after work. You are the man!

 

[Awk08]

I have a dmc exhaust (not sure which one ). I am using a 230 jet and I have the e clip in the 2nd slot
I am in denver so I'm trying to adjust for altitude.

.

If that is a DMC header pipe the you are way too lean with a #230 main, the pipe alone calls for a #260.

i'm sure the stock suggested main jet, 230, is for the thick air at sea level, and is probably rich at mile high denver co. (5280' above sea level)
as would be the case with the suggested main for the dmc

arc323 may be onto the correct path, as mile high will require leaner jetting for the thinner air
i'd start with the suggested 260, just to be safe, then plug chop down to confirm

 

[arc323]

i'm sure the stock suggested main jet, 230, is for the thick air at sea level, and is probably rich at mile high denver co. (5280' above sea level)
as would be the case with the suggested main for the dmc

arc323 may be onto the correct path, as mile high will require leaner jetting for the thinner air
i'd start with the suggested 260, just to be safe, then plug chop down to confirm

I went to the yamaha shop today to look at a grizzley 450 eps for the wife. I asked the service mngr about jetting for the dmc. He said 240 should do it so I grabbed a 260 and 240. I'm headed to FairPlay, CO this weekend so I'll have plenty of time to test it out. Thanks guys.

 

[arc323]

Update: went to FairPlay and put in the 240 jet. I plug chopped and it looked real good. I spent the weekend riding the blaster pretty hard through a lot of awesome mountain trails. She never once acted up and I checked the plug after each riding session.

I brought it home and cleaned the air filter and washed the whole bike since one day was a little muddy. The wife's grizzly did well too although it was brand new.

The only problem I had all weekend was the float needle getting stuck open causing me to run out of gas. I took the carbs off and found no issues. It's weird that this also happened the last time I had the carbs apart. Picking up and dropping the rear of the bike seems to fix the float needle..

Anyway thanks again for the help guys!

 

[Blaaster]

If the float and needle and seat were problemsome it could be fooling you that a #240 main is correct.

Plug chops must be done with the float level set correctly, the carb not flooding and the idle set as per specs.

You need to either clean the crap or varnish out of the needle and seat assembly or replace it as sometimes the rubber tip perishes.

Check to see if the float is fouling the bowl somewhere or getting stuck down.

I suppose you could always pickup the back of the bike a few times and drop it a few times but that is not the recommended way to fix a flooding problem!