I just bought a used 2002 Blaster. When I first start it in neutral the RPMs ramp way up unless I put it in gear and go. It seems to be relate to the choke. If I warm up the engine a bit and then put it in neutral for it will idle properly sometimes. If it doesn't idel right I can control the wild idle by adjusting the choke. What would cause this? Bad choke? Bad carb? Has anyone else seen this issue? What fixed it?
RPMs ramps up when first started. Adjusting choke can control it
- Thread starter subsys7
- Start date
check to be sure that the pilot circuit in the carb is clean and clear, and check the airscrew adjustment (it's the one on the side of the carb, start with it 1.5 turns out from lightly seated).
also do a leakdown test on it, it may have an air leak that seals up as the parts expand when they warm up
also do a leakdown test on it, it may have an air leak that seals up as the parts expand when they warm up
If the idle slows down when you pull out the choke it is possible you have an air leak.
Do a leak down test.
Do a leak down test.
Sweet, thanks for the advice guys. I just rode around and the idle ramps up when the clutch in when shifting gears too. I am guessing its an air leak maybe?
Another question comes to mind - is it even necessary to use the clutch at all when shifting gears except for into first and depending on the terrain I suppose?
Another question comes to mind - is it even necessary to use the clutch at all when shifting gears except for into first and depending on the terrain I suppose?
If you have an air leak you can do damage just riding it around it could be running too lean which can fry the top end.
As to clutching, I seldom use the clutch when just riding, other than starting or stopping.
There are exceptions as to when I clutch, in heavy going, steep inclines/declines and mud.
I find the blaster box quite forgiving and easy on a clutchless shift, but with any box you have to get the revs, throttle position, right or it will clunk.
It is advisable to clutch when changing at a standstill, as gear linkages can be damaged from trying to change with stationary gears.
I have found that the best way to bend a shift fork is by stabbing the gear lever trying to find neutral, with the bike stationary and not clutching..
As to clutching, I seldom use the clutch when just riding, other than starting or stopping.
There are exceptions as to when I clutch, in heavy going, steep inclines/declines and mud.
I find the blaster box quite forgiving and easy on a clutchless shift, but with any box you have to get the revs, throttle position, right or it will clunk.
It is advisable to clutch when changing at a standstill, as gear linkages can be damaged from trying to change with stationary gears.
I have found that the best way to bend a shift fork is by stabbing the gear lever trying to find neutral, with the bike stationary and not clutching..
Compression and leakdown test before riding anymore.
If it even revs high between gears it means you must have a major airleak.
Airleaks mean more air, more air leans the mix, lean mix means high temps and less lubrication which means you out of pocket. Which is never good.
If it even revs high between gears it means you must have a major airleak.
Airleaks mean more air, more air leans the mix, lean mix means high temps and less lubrication which means you out of pocket. Which is never good.
this happened me i adjusted the air and carb screw between 1 1/2 and1 1/8 of a turn out from tight then replaced the gasket in the screw that goes onto the top of the carb, then made sure it was screwed tight and it solved it
