Its what it sounds like. When I first take off at the low rpms it runs rough and doesn't have much power. It only last a few seconds and it seems to get better as it warms up. Now I'm still on break-in so nothing above 3/4 throttle. I have been cleaning my carb religiously throughout my rebuild and have ended up just about using a whole can of carb cleaner, cleaned it 3x, installed tors removal 3x more, had float issue 2x more, had low idle and shaved boss for idle screw cleaned 2x more. Leaktest was passed with 7psi for 10minutes and I have also got the hang of taking the carb off and on without flexing the reed boot. I shaved the boss for the idle screw another 1/16inch past being perfectly flat, its shaved right down to where the threads start, all the taper before the threads start is gone. Now with it all the way in it idles a little high, but not high enough to properly set the air screw, of course I'm doing this by ear and don't have much experience. I've got the airscrew at 1.5 turns out, which seemed pretty good as I tried to adjust it while trying to hold the throttle steady. Is this just how the 2 strokes run? I know from chainsaws and weedeaters, they like to be wide open with a load on em.
Rough take off
- Thread starter tbrooks
- Start date
Did you make really sure the pilot jet is clean, you often have run a little bristle through to clean it?
Did you set the idle as follows?
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Did you set the idle as follows?
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
I forget to mention rebuild kit in the above as well. Floats are good, drain screw is stripped so I can't turn it, I took it for a short ride earlier (maybe not long enough, just a few minutes), turned the idle screw all the way in which got me prob just over 1000 rpm (guessing), so I pressed on the throttle a little and gave the airscrew a 1/2 turn each way and it seemed a little slower so I left it at 1.5 turns out.
Went out and road for awhile today. Got it warmed up good and played with the air screw. Still can't hear much difference with the idle low like it is, and using the throttle doesn't really help. I realized later I could prob adjust the cable to get the idle higher. I did put the air screw at 2 turns out and it seemed to help the problem. I'm wondering if it is just an elevation thing, I'm at 3200 ft. Merc I'd be interested to see what yours is set at since you run at higher elevation as well.
As a matter of interest where is the clip on the jet needle, at your altitude it may improve if you lean it one clip.
Re adjust the idle to complement the move!
Only briefly try it, up to 1/2 throttle, as it may run too lean.
Have you tried the old trick of pulling the choke partially on when riding. Runs better = too lean, runs worse = too rich!
Re adjust the idle to complement the move!
Only briefly try it, up to 1/2 throttle, as it may run too lean.
Have you tried the old trick of pulling the choke partially on when riding. Runs better = too lean, runs worse = too rich!
Yes, I tried pulling the choke, even the slightest bit and it dies. It also does seem a little smoky and there's a little spooge on the silencer. Of course I don't know enough to know if that is normal. Needle is on the middle clip now, I was gonna plug chop it when I get a chance to see how it looks
Although the amount of smoke should not be relied on to diagnose, smoke and spooge combination will usually point to a rich condition!
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