rebuilt my blaster not running right help!!

blaster911

New Member
Aug 18, 2010
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i just rebuilt my 2005 blaster, got it running and it drives fine but wount idle or reves way up when just sitting there.X( possable carb needle clip positin? i did get it bored 20 over.. thanks for the help
 
Did you perform a leak down test? What EXACTLY did you do fore the rebuid? What mods? How did it run before the rebuild? We need more info lots more...
 
doesnt have any leaks has full fmf sst power core 2 exaust full, reed spacer, uni filter, and now 20 over and befor it blew up it ran amazing and it did idle.. has oil injection but still mixed to gas 60:1 for the break in
 
doesnt have any leaks has full fmf sst power core 2 exaust full, reed spacer, uni filter, and now 20 over and befor it blew up it ran amazing and it did idle.. has oil injection but still mixed to gas 60:1 for the break in

Did you use a leak down tester on it in the correct way ?
 
Why were you also pre-mixing when running the oil injection??? That leans out your fuel mixture. I run oil injection and love it,but don't add oil to your fuel. Thats a no-no. Did you also jet richer (larger jet) for the colder weather?
 
when i pull my chock out is when it reves up where you gotta shut it off so it dont blow and with the choke in it wount idle
 
woulde i turn it out more than stock or less stock is 1 1/2 turns out

That's why it's called tuning. It will tell you what it needs. Turn screw 1/4 turn, wait 20 seconds to adjust to new setting. If not satifactory adjust more. As you get closer go 1/8 turns. If more than 2 1/2 out = larger pilot. Is your carb clean? You can see thru pilot jet? Clean is not a quick douche with a spray can. I suspect either a clogged oilot or clogged carb body. I prefer to be able to blow air both ways in carb body to be sure they flow.

Did you do a leakdown test? Carb boot not cracked? Clamp tite? Slide cap tite? Is there a gasket under cap? Choke knob tite to body?
 
no i did not that is why i added extra oil

Adding extra oil is a very big no, no, the oil takes the place of fuel in the mix and causes a lean condition which will burn much hotter and can destroy the piston.

You need to drain the tank and put in pure gas, and then perform a leak test as there is something amiss with your setup.
 
That's why it's called tuning. It will tell you what it needs. Turn screw 1/4 turn, wait 20 seconds to adjust to new setting. If not satifactory adjust more. As you get closer go 1/8 turns. If more than 2 1/2 out = larger pilot. Is your carb clean? You can see thru pilot jet? Clean is not a quick douche with a spray can. I suspect either a clogged oilot or clogged carb body. I prefer to be able to blow air both ways in carb body to be sure they flow.

Did you do a leakdown test? Carb boot not cracked? Clamp tite? Slide cap tite? Is there a gasket under cap? Choke knob tite to body?

good info cleaning your carb out is a good place to start. I do after every rebuild and find all kinds of crap in it. what is your jetting at? I would make an educated guess at 37.5 piolt and at least a 260-280 main jet for what it needs to be. because boring it makes the motor want more fuel from the increase in suction/surface area from the bigger piston. keep us posted.
 
i just rebuilt my 2005 blaster, got it running and it drives fine but wount idle or reves way up when just sitting there.X( possable carb needle clip positin? i did get it bored 20 over.. thanks for the help

Boring it 20 over will make absolutly no difference in jetting requirements.

Stock pilot is 32.5 and should not be messed with.

The needle clip should be in the centre slot.

Your mods call for around a #290 or #300 main jet, start big and plug chop to confirm.

Clean the carb, set the float and adjust the idle correctly, leak test and then, and only then ride it to plug chop.