hope you guys are looking forward for a top end rebuild??i f*cked up the cylinder exhaust threads so im going to have a machine shop fix it up.and possible a new wiseco piston(never tried them are they any good?).and the a-arms i got off of ebay suck the threads are f*cked.i got a new clymer manual and it says you can remove the screwed up ball joints on the lower a-arms is the tool for that really expensive HELP ME GUYS.
rebuild coming up?!?!?!?
- Thread starter 2strokepower
- Start date
Wiseco makes great pistons!
I'm thinking you mean a tap for the a-arms or a ball joint remover?
Either way taps are cheap and major autoparts store will loan you a ball joint remover for free.
cool thanks i will get a bunch of pics and then make a rebuild thread.i already got it strippedI:I
A Wiseco forged piston is probably the best one available for the Blaster. I'd get one if money allows! I:I While you have it apart, just mic out the cylinder bore to determine if you need to have it bored out. Sometimes you can get away with just a honing if the cylinder is within spec, and nothing is scratched or scored.
Honestly, you're not in as much trouble as you may think with those damaged threads in the jug. You can probably fix the problem yourself, for about $ 20.00, with a Heil-Coil kit from the local auto parts store. Especially if the threads are just stripped out beyond belief. You'll have to drill, so if the idea of putting a bit to the jug is intimidating, a machine shop will be glad to do it for a fee. I'd leave extracting a broken bolt or stud to the pros. Personally, though, I've always put in my own Heli-Coils, as it takes only about 10 minutes per hole and isn't hard to do. If you follow the instructions, that is...
Honestly, you're not in as much trouble as you may think with those damaged threads in the jug. You can probably fix the problem yourself, for about $ 20.00, with a Heil-Coil kit from the local auto parts store. Especially if the threads are just stripped out beyond belief. You'll have to drill, so if the idea of putting a bit to the jug is intimidating, a machine shop will be glad to do it for a fee. I'd leave extracting a broken bolt or stud to the pros. Personally, though, I've always put in my own Heli-Coils, as it takes only about 10 minutes per hole and isn't hard to do. If you follow the instructions, that is...
A Wiseco forged piston is probably the best one available for the Blaster. I'd get one if money allows! I:I While you have it apart, just mic out the cylinder bore to determine if you need to have it bored out. Sometimes you can get away with just a honing if the cylinder is within spec, and nothing is scratched or scored.
Honestly, you're not in as much trouble as you may think with those damaged threads in the jug. You can probably fix the problem yourself, for about $ 20.00, with a Heil-Coil kit from the local auto parts store. Especially if the threads are just stripped out beyond belief. You'll have to drill, so if the idea of putting a bit to the jug is intimidating, a machine shop will be glad to do it for a fee. I'd leave extracting a broken bolt or stud to the pros. Personally, though, I've always put in my own Heli-Coils, as it takes only about 10 minutes per hole and isn't hard to do. If you follow the instructions, that is...
i dont trust my dad with the drilling lol.but my cylinder only has about 20 hours or so.so im just rebuilding it to keep it fresh while its all apart.oh and i dont know what to do with the ports(how to clean them).
I wouldn't trust my dad working on my quad, either. Lol. He'd either mess something up in the engine, or break the suspension when he sat down on it! 8-|
Seriously, though, I agree with you. Let a machine shop do the thread repairs. Any good machinist does this stuff all day long and has plenty of practice. And, since you've only got 20 hours or so on the top end, I wouldn't even bother honing the cylinder, as long as crosshatch marks are still visible on the cylinder walls. Just pop in the new Wiseco piston and go! You can clean gunk out of the ports with a plastic scraper, rag and some carb. cleaner, if that's what you mean. As long as no machine work is done on the bore, you shouldn't need to chamfer anything. (Techs out there, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.)
that might get you the gaskets...
eehh christmas is coming up so i shouldent worry.
checked the cylinder today and it looks like it needs to be honed.getting a new piston kit in a week or 2.how do you figure out what size piston i have.
can i just ask the machine shop to measure the bore tomorrow if thats possible?i will check the piston too.
Yup, the machine shop will be glad to measure it for you. They have the special tools needed to get an accurate reading. I will say that if the bore appears to need a honing, it may be a good idea to just go ahead and punch it out one oversize. That's up to you. A slight overbore won't cause any reliability problems. By doing the top end this way, you'll be sure to have a properly-fitting piston when all's said and done.
Yup, the machine shop will be glad to measure it for you. They have the special tools needed to get an accurate reading. I will say that if the bore appears to need a honing, it may be a good idea to just go ahead and punch it out one oversize. That's up to you. A slight overbore won't cause any reliability problems. By doing the top end this way, you'll be sure to have a properly-fitting piston when all's said and done.[/QUOTe
ok the machine shop gave me a very good deal for $100.00.i got the cylinder honed and repainted,they cleaned the ports, and repainted the cylinder head.and fixed the threads.so one more quick question im keeping the old piston and rings because i dont have money to buy new ones.so will i need to break in the cylinder or can i go balls to the walls on my first ride?
Yup, the machine shop will be glad to measure it for you. They have the special tools needed to get an accurate reading. I will say that if the bore appears to need a honing, it may be a good idea to just go ahead and punch it out one oversize. That's up to you. A slight overbore won't cause any reliability problems. By doing the top end this way, you'll be sure to have a properly-fitting piston when all's said and done.[/QUOTe
ok the machine shop gave me a very good deal for $100.00.i got the cylinder honed and repainted,they cleaned the ports, and repainted the cylinder head.and fixed the threads.so one more quick question im keeping the old piston and rings because i dont have money to buy new ones.so will i need to break in the cylinder or can i go balls to the walls on my first ride?
No new rings?! Yeah, I understand that money's tight, but having the cylinder honed without putting in at least new piston rings is kinda like detailing your bike, only to go mudding afterwards. It defeats the purpose. :-/
To answer your question, you should take it easy on any cylinder that has had machine work done to it. The piston rings, whether you replace them or not, need time to re-seat themselves into the newly-finished bore. I'm just surprised that new rings aren't going to be installed. Seeing as how the cross-hatch marks were already worn-off before honing, the original piston rings have also been eroded. They won't seat right or seal well if re-used.
To put it in perspective, I have a similar issue with my Banshee. The previous owner took a shortcut while doing a new top end. It ran for about 8 hours before losing compression AGAIN! Dammit! I'm now in the process of doing ANOTHER top end, all because somebody tried to save a buck on cylinder work 8 running hours ago. No offense. Just my .02, 'cause I HATE tearing an engine down twice, to fix a problem that could have been avoided in the first place.
i would really a new wiseco pisteon and some rings but we just dropped round $600 on the bike over the past 2 weeks.piston is 20 hours old (rings too).and after seing yb200(a member on this site)have his top end go for 6 years i think it will last till summer when i rebuild it.I:I i really appreciate your help you know your sh*t
