rear brake help..

[mr_3_0_5]

why do they lock up ifve taken it apart cleaned everything out everything seems to be in good working order..
but if i hit th brake hard it lock up and stays locked..
if i unscrew the three allen key screws just crack them loose i can hear the spring make a noise and it returns to normal.
hit it hard again it will lock up loosen allen key till it click its ok again ..
whats the deal anyne else have this issue??

 

[CC&Fabb]

Your asking the right guy (me)!!!!

Well, if you tighten the 3 allen bolts too tight then, the brake will lock up. What you need to do is loosen the bolts so they are barerly holding the cover on. Then, check to see if it works. If you have the cover too tight the "self adjusting" thing cant back it way back out so, it says locked.

Once you get the brake working right put some lock tite on the 3 allen head screws and lightly tighten them back up.

Bottom line is loosen the 3 allen screws. I think the manual says that you should tighten them to a very light inch pounds. So if you are really toquing them down then, its not going to work.

Your also running the Shorty rear brake cable right?

 

[mr_3_0_5]

yea a shorty rear brake cable.. i didnt really try leaving it slightly on..lol
guess that may be the trick i was thinking real small washers on the it holds it out just 1/8 of an inch.. what do you think..
should i just put aa little lock tight and see how that does?
and why only on the gf's brakes mine doesnt do itno matter how tight i have the cover..

 

[CC&Fabb]

It has to do with how the self adjusting thing is set. Just try and back the bolts off a bit and see if that works for you. It should, it worked for me.

 

[mr_3_0_5]

what do you think about the washers?

 

[coreyownz]

not to thread jack but mine are the igzact opposite.. if i take the guts out than put em back in and tighten the cover down good the break works good (only once like i hit the peddle once thats it) than after hiting the break the first time the breaks are gone... i cranked the adjuster like crazy too

 

[Unstock240]

If it's adjusted correct you shouldn't have to back the bolts off. If it works like that you have the cam adjust out to much. You must have something wrong, my screws are tight and it works fine. Did you grease the piston? It might need to be taken out and sanded smooth. you need to back the plastic cam screw out or in. Pull it out and use a standard screwdriver, it wont work since its made not to back off. Keep turning it until the disk has about 1/16 of slop in it when assembled. Is the return spring inside the caliper working? The specs for the allen screws are 9.4ft lbs so they aren't supposed to be loose.

 

[mr_3_0_5]

my bike works fine with the cover tightend all the way the gf has to have to cover loose to work sound dumb but it does work if its a little loose..

 

[Unstock240]

If it works like that better then paying to replace it though. I would just do the washers between the cover and get some good sealant where the gasket was.

 

[mr_3_0_5]

If it works like that better then paying to replace it though. I would just do the washers between the cover and get some good sealant where the gasket was.

yea i think that may be my best bet or doubling the gasket..
anybody have a gasket??

 

[stephen12091985]

is that the caliper you got from me 305 or the one you already had?

 

[CC&Fabb]

I am not saying to make them loose like they will just back their way out on a quick ride. I am saying dont torque down on them like your never going to take them off agian.

 

[wolf1]

why do they lock up ifve taken it apart cleaned everything out everything seems to be in good working order..
but if i hit th brake hard it lock up and stays locked..
if i unscrew the three allen key screws just crack them loose i can hear the spring make a noise and it returns to normal.
hit it hard again it will lock up loosen allen key till it click its ok again ..
whats the deal anyne else have this issue??

using the stock rear caliper i have run into this problem.

I found out that the gast that goes under the piston adjuster cover (cap with three allen screws) was missing.
it let it bind and lock the brakes up, if you loosened the three screws it would realease but tighten it back up and hit the brakes and it locked everytime.
the clearance is really low and the gasket has to be there.

i put a new gasket in there and the problem went away.

 

[electricguitarlover21]

Yeah my back brake is so screwed up and it's a pain to fix. I can't find the gasket for it either. But that's probably the problem with mine also

 

[Vootie]

I had the same issue before I got hydros. I used small washers between the halves and sealed the opening with sealent. Worked pretty good, but it's not what I'd call a permanent fix.

 

[mr_3_0_5]

well i dont go through water and mud much but i have another caliper here im going to try.. if all fails i will put silicone and little washers.. i thought about doing that also..

 

[electricguitarlover21]

Yeah i was just thinking about converting to hydro, found a cool brake setup off http://blasterzone.com/store/hydraulicbrakekits/Hydraulicbrakekits.html

 

[xjma]

Use RTV sealant to keep junk from getting under the cover.

I JUST fixed up my back brake. Piston was frozen in there. Took it out, took off the O-ring, sanded the piston lightly with really fine grit sand paper, did the same to the barrel in the caliper (where the piston goes). Then I greased the crap out of it.

I think that the caliper wouldn't freeze so much if it used two O-rings....I think. It seems like it's too easy for it to get cocked sideways in there and it's too easy for dirt to get in there. Those two factors, it seems to me, may be the main causes of back brake issues....well, excluding cable issues and such. Keep in mind, this is my first time messing with these calipers, so take my word for what it's worth, I don't have years of experience with them....but i'm usually pretty good at making sh*t work. It worked this weekend....

I also RTVed around the piston to help keep junk out of the caliper. I know once the pads wear the RTV won't seal anymore, but maybe I'll try to seal it every now and then. RTV is cheap!!

I'm looking at the possibility of maybe machining another groove in the piston for an O-ring. It may help...I duno if it's even possible though.

 

[mr_3_0_5]

Use RTV sealant to keep junk from getting under the cover.

I JUST fixed up my back brake. Piston was frozen in there. Took it out, took off the O-ring, sanded the piston lightly with really fine grit sand paper, did the same to the barrel in the caliper (where the piston goes). Then I greased the crap out of it.

I think that the caliper wouldn't freeze so much if it used two O-rings....I think. It seems like it's too easy for it to get cocked sideways in there and it's too easy for dirt to get in there. Those two factors, it seems to me, may be the main causes of back brake issues....well, excluding cable issues and such. Keep in mind, this is my first time messing with these calipers, so take my word for what it's worth, I don't have years of experience with them....but i'm usually pretty good at making sh*t work. It worked this weekend....

I also RTVed around the piston to help keep junk out of the caliper. I know once the pads wear the RTV won't seal anymore, but maybe I'll try to seal it every now and then. RTV is cheap!!

I'm looking at the possibility of maybe machining another groove in the piston for an O-ring. It may help...I duno if it's even possible though.

i know what your talking about but i adjusted it diffrently and it seem to do alot better now..