doi need a jet kit to jet??? or is there one that comes built in i have never had to rejet... i know that this is a very dumb question but im new to blasters
question
- Thread starter tyler1blaster
- Start date
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/pro...le=Intake/Fuel&webCatId=16&prodFamilyId=24377 no kit required. just pick up a few jets from rocky mountain. They have jets for $2.24 a peice. i bought #250 through #320 for my future mods. Hope i helped
1) Mark your throttle housing and grip in 1/4 turn increments. Use a marker, razor blade, etc.
2) Now get the motor to operating temperature by riding around, away from the pits.
3) Once the motor is warm, ride in 2nd and 3rd gear from the low RPM to high RPM. This puts a good load on the motor and is an accurate test of performance.
* try to notice if the problem gets worse or better as the motor heats up.
4) Now try to locate the throttle opening at which the problem exists. See details just below.
Rich Jetting Symptoms and Solutions
A) Motor won’t idle and idle set screw is ineffective. Try leaning out the air screw by turning it counter clockwise a quarter turn at a time. If the air screw has no effect, install a leaner pilot jet and return the air screw to 1 turn out. Proper air screw settings are usually between 1 and 2 1/2 turns out. The correct pilot for your bike is one that allows instant off-idle throttle response, and allows the air screw to be effective between 1 and 2.5 turns out. If the problem still exists, check and clean the choke circuit and carb vent lines.
Motor stumbles off idle to 1/2 throttle, then cleans up. If everything in part A above is correct, check the needle. Stock position is usually in the middle, but check your owner’s manual to be sure. To lean out the needle, you need to raise the clip. If the needle is dropped all the way lean and problem still exists, try a leaner needle.
C. Motor will rev through the mid range then becomes gurgley (technical term) at full throttle and power is sluggish. This is a text book example of a rich main jet. This problem often occurs when an air filter becomes clogged and gets worse as the motor heats up. Choose a main jet with a smaller number and lean out the air fuel mixture one step at a time. If the problem still persists even though it’s improved a little, reinstall your original main jet and lean out the needle one position. Now fine tune the main jet with plug checks.
Plug checks are the key to fine tuning the main jet once the other circuits are set.
White Porcelain Chocolate Mocha Brown Black/Wet
Lean Perfect! Rich
Look for symmetrical burn patterns, smell for odors like burnt plastic, which is actually tranny fluid and would be indicative of a blown seal.
Lean Jetting Symptoms and Solutions
A) Motor hesitates off idle with a "Boooooooooowang" sound. This is a lean symptom and often occurs when a motor is cold. Try turning the air-fuel screw clockwise a quarter turn richer and check throttle response again until motor revs without hesitation. If the motor "hangs up" or doesn’t come right back down to idle, install a richer pilot, and reset air screw.
Motor knock knock knocks at idle when hot. Try solution A. If problem persists, perform a "leakdown pressure test" to check for ignition crank seal leakage.
C) Motor revs clean and crisp but runs really hot and lacks power. This symptom indicates a lean main jet and/or needle. Use a richer main jet and/or needle setting. This is the most common misconception about two stroke jetting: When a motor runs excessively hot and lacks power, it is on the verge of seizing. If you are on the trail and don’t have the right main jet, try raising the needle by lowering the clip. It won’t be exact but at least you won’t seize.
Note: To be certain that your problem is lean, pull on the choke and see if the problem gets better or worse. If better, your problem is a lean condition.
2) Now get the motor to operating temperature by riding around, away from the pits.
3) Once the motor is warm, ride in 2nd and 3rd gear from the low RPM to high RPM. This puts a good load on the motor and is an accurate test of performance.
* try to notice if the problem gets worse or better as the motor heats up.
4) Now try to locate the throttle opening at which the problem exists. See details just below.
Rich Jetting Symptoms and Solutions
A) Motor won’t idle and idle set screw is ineffective. Try leaning out the air screw by turning it counter clockwise a quarter turn at a time. If the air screw has no effect, install a leaner pilot jet and return the air screw to 1 turn out. Proper air screw settings are usually between 1 and 2 1/2 turns out. The correct pilot for your bike is one that allows instant off-idle throttle response, and allows the air screw to be effective between 1 and 2.5 turns out. If the problem still exists, check and clean the choke circuit and carb vent lines.
Motor stumbles off idle to 1/2 throttle, then cleans up. If everything in part A above is correct, check the needle. Stock position is usually in the middle, but check your owner’s manual to be sure. To lean out the needle, you need to raise the clip. If the needle is dropped all the way lean and problem still exists, try a leaner needle.
C. Motor will rev through the mid range then becomes gurgley (technical term) at full throttle and power is sluggish. This is a text book example of a rich main jet. This problem often occurs when an air filter becomes clogged and gets worse as the motor heats up. Choose a main jet with a smaller number and lean out the air fuel mixture one step at a time. If the problem still persists even though it’s improved a little, reinstall your original main jet and lean out the needle one position. Now fine tune the main jet with plug checks.
Plug checks are the key to fine tuning the main jet once the other circuits are set.
White Porcelain Chocolate Mocha Brown Black/Wet
Lean Perfect! Rich
Look for symmetrical burn patterns, smell for odors like burnt plastic, which is actually tranny fluid and would be indicative of a blown seal.
Lean Jetting Symptoms and Solutions
A) Motor hesitates off idle with a "Boooooooooowang" sound. This is a lean symptom and often occurs when a motor is cold. Try turning the air-fuel screw clockwise a quarter turn richer and check throttle response again until motor revs without hesitation. If the motor "hangs up" or doesn’t come right back down to idle, install a richer pilot, and reset air screw.
Motor knock knock knocks at idle when hot. Try solution A. If problem persists, perform a "leakdown pressure test" to check for ignition crank seal leakage.
C) Motor revs clean and crisp but runs really hot and lacks power. This symptom indicates a lean main jet and/or needle. Use a richer main jet and/or needle setting. This is the most common misconception about two stroke jetting: When a motor runs excessively hot and lacks power, it is on the verge of seizing. If you are on the trail and don’t have the right main jet, try raising the needle by lowering the clip. It won’t be exact but at least you won’t seize.
Note: To be certain that your problem is lean, pull on the choke and see if the problem gets better or worse. If better, your problem is a lean condition.
