puting crank seal in
- Thread starter NameLess
- Start date
There are two crank oil seals. One on each side of the crank. One is called the "stator side" and the other is the "clutch side". The names are self explanatory....
If you engine is smoking heavily white smoke and smells like burning transmission fluid (whatever type you might be running) then your clutch side seal is the culprit.
If oil is seeping out from the stator cover and your quad is idling REALLY high, the stator side seal is the culprit. Most people will recommend you replace both together and this is sound advice as one failing COULD be an indication the other could fail.... It is not, however required that you change both at the same time, they're not co-located....
For the stator side seal you'll need:
Flywheel puller, impact screwdriver with large phillips head bit, 1/8" drill bit, two drywall screws, and a bunch of patience.
The first step is to clear everything out of the way, you'll need to pull the stator side cover off which requires removing the shifter in most cases. You'll need to use an impact gun or flywheel holder and pull bar to remove the flywheel nut and washer. You'll need to pull the flywheel using the flywheel puller, and then use the impact screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the stator plate in.
That should expose the seal and the stub end of the crankshaft. The tricky part is drilling a hole in the seal on both sides of the seal body WITHOUT hitting the crankshaft or seal mounting surface. Hitting either one will cause irrepairable damage requiring splitting cases. Run the drywall screw into the holes in the seal body and then use a claw hammer to pull the seal out of the case. The new seal is driven in with a large socket that will fit over the crankshaft and drive the seal into the case. Be VERY careful upon installation not to drive the stator side seal in too far, it will rub the bearing inner race and tear the seal to shreds.
Clutch side has more parts to remove to expose but the seal itself is easier to deal with. Remove the right side footpeg, heelguard, and brake cable. Remove the clutch cover after draining the transmission fluid. Remove the entire clutch assembly one layer at a time and then jam the balancer shaft gear and primary drive gear with a penny and use an impact gun to remove the primary drive gear nut. Slide both gears, key, and collar off the crankshaft stub end and then pry the seal out of the case carefully. With the collar removed, the seal should be able to be removed with a flatblade screwdriver, seal extractor, or prybar.... Use the same socket to drive the new seal into the case paying attention to depth. Reassemble the clutch side opposite following the service manual for all of the adjustments.
If you engine is smoking heavily white smoke and smells like burning transmission fluid (whatever type you might be running) then your clutch side seal is the culprit.
If oil is seeping out from the stator cover and your quad is idling REALLY high, the stator side seal is the culprit. Most people will recommend you replace both together and this is sound advice as one failing COULD be an indication the other could fail.... It is not, however required that you change both at the same time, they're not co-located....
For the stator side seal you'll need:
Flywheel puller, impact screwdriver with large phillips head bit, 1/8" drill bit, two drywall screws, and a bunch of patience.
The first step is to clear everything out of the way, you'll need to pull the stator side cover off which requires removing the shifter in most cases. You'll need to use an impact gun or flywheel holder and pull bar to remove the flywheel nut and washer. You'll need to pull the flywheel using the flywheel puller, and then use the impact screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the stator plate in.
That should expose the seal and the stub end of the crankshaft. The tricky part is drilling a hole in the seal on both sides of the seal body WITHOUT hitting the crankshaft or seal mounting surface. Hitting either one will cause irrepairable damage requiring splitting cases. Run the drywall screw into the holes in the seal body and then use a claw hammer to pull the seal out of the case. The new seal is driven in with a large socket that will fit over the crankshaft and drive the seal into the case. Be VERY careful upon installation not to drive the stator side seal in too far, it will rub the bearing inner race and tear the seal to shreds.
Clutch side has more parts to remove to expose but the seal itself is easier to deal with. Remove the right side footpeg, heelguard, and brake cable. Remove the clutch cover after draining the transmission fluid. Remove the entire clutch assembly one layer at a time and then jam the balancer shaft gear and primary drive gear with a penny and use an impact gun to remove the primary drive gear nut. Slide both gears, key, and collar off the crankshaft stub end and then pry the seal out of the case carefully. With the collar removed, the seal should be able to be removed with a flatblade screwdriver, seal extractor, or prybar.... Use the same socket to drive the new seal into the case paying attention to depth. Reassemble the clutch side opposite following the service manual for all of the adjustments.
ok try but it smocks very little white smoke and the tranny oil gose down a bit after it is ran say i check the tranny oil its between the 2 lines so i start it up it smokes a little white then truns blue then i run it around the yard a bit then just it off then let the quad sit for mabby 20-30 min then i go check the oil it went down a bit so what could be making it do that and btw i did drain the tranny oil and put some fresh oil in so mabby thats why its going throught so mutch oil because the oil has 2 go back into places that where drained from?
The transmission SHOULD be sealed away from the crankcase (by the clutch side seal) so if it's burning transmission fluid, it's either pulling it in around the clutch side seal or between the case halves. if it's the seal, you can repair it by following ^^^^^^ those instructions. If it's a case half leaking, you'll have to split the cases and figure out what's going on.
Has this engine ever had a piston disintegrate (at least since you've had it)?
Also, get a leakdown tester and become familiar with its use. Slickerthanyou (a member on here) sells them cheap. They'll fill end up saving your engine from total meltdown.
Has this engine ever had a piston disintegrate (at least since you've had it)?
Also, get a leakdown tester and become familiar with its use. Slickerthanyou (a member on here) sells them cheap. They'll fill end up saving your engine from total meltdown.
The only thing I would add to Civic"s marvellous description is to smear the seal with a little oil, especially on the friction surface. 
So the seal will fail if you put to much grease on it?? Mine did apperently.. any other reason a NEW oil seal will fail like if the clutch basket has play in it?
Anyway I can get you in a one on one conversation?The only thing I would add to Civic"s marvellous description is to smear the seal with a little oil, especially on the friction surface.
I just redid my crank seals all went well it passed the leak down test however now that I have it all back together my clutch isnt disengaging the motor, I have it in gear and when I squeeze the clutch it's still in gear, I took cover off and the clutch plates are flexing nicely which is throwing me off, everything on this clutch is new, new clutch new springs new basket new clutch boss new push rod new ball bearing and the new clutch adjustment pin.. are there any timing Mark's or anything i should have paid attention to that could throw this off?
Find the PDF manual on here, or find Ken O'CONNOR engine assembly vid on you tube.
Did you soak the plates in oil for 24hrs before assembly?
I sure did.. I went back through and redid everything and I'm not entirely sure why but it wasnt working with the new clutch boss.. I decided to try the old one because it wasnt terrible looking it does have a couple notches so I wanted to replace it while I had everything off.. long story short no idea why the new one wasnt working but once I slapped the old one back in she worked like a charm.. the only diff I saw between the two bosses was that the metal clutch plates didnt slide as easily on the new one.. I figured it just had to be broken in or something.. idk but I works so
