project: winch and HIDs on blaster

[phragle]

I have done the conversion to add a battery for hid lights, its easy. First your stator has 2 parts. one side does the ignition (back part) the front part is for lights etc. The front part is what gets rewound for more output. to do the conversion you must also modify the front part by floating the ground. All you do is take the winding where it grounds on the stator plate, and instead of grounding it to the plate attach it to a wire running up the frame with the rest of the wires. Replace the voltage regulator with a rectifier. I got a universal one from Baja designs. wire that up per the directions and add the battery.

As for it being powerfull enough to run the winch, that depends somewhat on the battery size. Whenever the bike is running you are charging the battery.

 

[tbrooks]

I thought I might add if I remember right from my college days watts=voltsxamps so your winch at no load, 6 amps x 12 volts=72 watts. Now that being said I don't know anything else about the electrical setup and charging system, just thought that might be helpful

 

[ilm121209]

haha i did leak test. she has such a minor minor leak. less than a psi over 10 minutes. im going to run her a few times and then test it again. i just ordered a k&n air filter and a renthal o ring chain. im also waiting on a rebuild kit for my carb and a bunch of jets so i can get her running nice. whats the best way to learn to tune? aside from staying a little on the rich side to aviod leaning out and blowing it up untill i get better? she runs okay but is definitely way rich and gurgling. it had a 50 pilot and a 147.5 main with the idle air screw 4 turns out and the needle on the leanest setting. from what ive seen from other people running mikuni 32mm, thats wayyy too big. so i ordered a bunch of oem equivelant jets because theyre cheap. pilot 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 and main 120, 125, 130, 135, and 140. once i get it running nice i will probably order genuine mikuni jets in the size that works best. or should i not bother?

 

[ilm121209]

I have done the conversion to add a battery for hid lights, its easy. First your stator has 2 parts. one side does the ignition (back part) the front part is for lights etc. The front part is what gets rewound for more output. to do the conversion you must also modify the front part by floating the ground. All you do is take the winding where it grounds on the stator plate, and instead of grounding it to the plate attach it to a wire running up the frame with the rest of the wires. Replace the voltage regulator with a rectifier. I got a universal one from Baja designs. wire that up per the directions and add the battery.

As for it being powerfull enough to run the winch, that depends somewhat on the battery size. Whenever the bike is running you are charging the battery.

so to add the stator you have to float the ground, because if you dont, you will be trying to ground 12vac and 12vdc through the frame at the same time and thats no good? so... to float the ground for the time being on the factory stator i could just snip it from the stator plate and solder it to a new ground wire and run it to the rectifier regulator? im competent with wiring ive just never worked on a stator this way before. its always been "no lights? throw a new one in there" haha

 

[phragle]

Thats pretty much it....

 

[Quadman1]

Fix that air leak before you run heat cycles.

 

[Blaaster]

Fix the air leak before you start the engine, chances are it will get worse owing to expansion/contraction forces. They very seldom get better.

If you are fitting a new chain it is a very good idea to fit new sprockets, otherwise your new chain could be toast within a few short rides.

If the air screw is 4 turns out it is jetted wrong!

Equivalent jets are cheap for a reason, they are seldom the correct size, buy only genuine jets.

Do some research on jetting or post your mods and someone may come up with a ballpark figure for you to start at before you plug chop.

 

[ilm121209]

67.75 bore. stock stroke. new b8es plug. fmf exhaust. off hand i believe it is a gold series fatty pipe and a core 2 silencer. ill check in the morning. k&n filter is coming in tomorrow. no air box lid. reeds lay flat but arent great so i will be upgrading them soon to carbon fiber or something, have to research some. mikuni 32mm carb with custom intake. #50 pilot jet and #147.5 main jet. air screw 4 turns out and needle in the leanest setting and still gurgling through the midrange. im going to try a 35 pilot jet and a 135 main with the needle in the middle slot. once my filter comes in atleast. sound reasonable? its weird that a 147.5 main is way rich for me. everything i see about the stock carbs people are jetted in the 200s and 300s

the bottom end just got a new bead of rtv and some seals... what a painnnnnnnn that was.

hopefully she is running soon...

 

[Blaaster]

What brand of jets do you have in the VM32 Mikuni, I know of no Mikuni 4/042 main jets of 147.5.

http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_mikuni_4-042_main_Hex.htm

http://www.mikunipower.com/VM01.htm

If someone has slipped a bodgy [ non Mikuni ] jet in there a 147.5 main would be equivalent to approx. #290 -#300 Mikuni.

I searched for a while and the only reference to a 147.5 main jet was as follows.

MIKUNI LARGE ROUND MAIN JETS N100.604
OVERALL LENGTH = 9mm
HEAD DIAMETER = 8mm
THREAD DIAMETER = 4.9mm
THREAD PITCH = 5.0 x 0.7
GENUINE Mikuni main jet size 147.5 $6.09

 

[ilm121209]

And that's exactly what was in there. Most vm32-33 use hex main jets but apparently some used the large round jets, and i have one of them. Its a genuine mikuni 147.5 large round main jet. What math makes my 147.5 equal to a #300? I'm so confused. Either way, i know that i switched to a 35 pilot and a 135 main, and she's still a little too rich. I'm still 4 turns out on the pilot circuit but getting a nice plug color. Like dark chocolate.

 

[Blaaster]

And that's exactly what was in there. Most vm32-33 use hex main jets but apparently some used the large round jets, and i have one of them. Its a genuine mikuni 147.5 large round main jet. What math makes my 147.5 equal to a #300? I'm so confused. Either way, i know that i switched to a 35 pilot and a 135 main, and she's still a little too rich. I'm still 4 turns out on the pilot circuit but getting a nice plug color. Like dark chocolate.

I was having an out of brain experience at the time of writing, and stupidly thinking of a #145 Keihin jet.

 

[ilm121209]

Maybe its the same principle? Because I'm down to a 35 and 135 and still a little rich.

 

[ilm121209]

i just realized ive been slacking on the pictures. so here are some recent pictures

this was a walk through of how to plug chop. i screen shot it so people could download it and then always have it on hand.


here she is with the winch all mounted up


the roller for the winch line is mounted where the bumper used to be. the bumper was mangled so i just cut it off but i need to buy another bumper that isnt bent and redo it but it works for now


heres another picture of the winch and "bumper"

 

[Larry's Shee]

Might want to do a search on Rick's, Ricky, and RM stator (all the same junk) before you pull the trigger on them. Same goes for their stator plates. Just do a stator plate mod (free).
Get a Moose or electra sport stator.
To help the current draw, get a snatch block (pully). You would have to stretch out 2x the line, but it will pull 2x easier (less draw). Should shut lights off during pulls.

 

[ilm121209]

okay ill look into them. and ive actually been looking into the mod. its seriously only print out a 360 degree protractor and mark the plate and then oval the holes enough to spin it 4 degrees? i cant believe i almost spent money to do that haha

 

[Blaaster]

Elongating the holes 3mm gives it a 4 deg advance, been there done that.

But please prove me wrong.

 

[phragle]

Just how stuck do you plan on getting a blaster that you need a winch to get out????

 

[Larry's Shee]

IIRC, the way the plate/stator assembly is (stock) you cant get much more than 4*, no need for no stinkin protractor, etc

 

[ilm121209]

haha well she is running like a top. im jetted down to a 30 pilot but i need to order a 32.5 because im only .25 turns out on the air screw haha. it idles higher at 2 turns out but then bogs bad when i rev it so i kept turning in untill the bogging stopped. at less than a half turn out haha. at least i know where i need to be jetted for winter now. tomorrow im hoping to get in a few plug chop runs. i think im a little rich on the main still but i wont know untill tomorrow.

as far as the winch goes, anywhere a 4x4 can go, i will try to follow. well, ill go places the 4x4 guys are afraid of. i get stuck a lotttttt. and i have crap tires now, i need to get something better.

ps, the mikuni vm32 on a blaster.... wow! what a difference! now that the tune is closer to perfect, i can sit all the way forward on the seat and when i nail it the front tires lift. its wierd because last week i couldnt get it to grip at all and shes definitely running stronger now. its actually a little ridiculous and throws me around like a rag doll. i need to get used to this. i can tell you from a few years riding a 400ex, this thing would blow its wheel off!

 

[ilm121209]

speaking of blowing wheels off, dont try to fit hubs from a honda onto a blaster. i had access to a 250ex roller with good rear tires and aluminum wheels. well i have a set of hubs that are honda bolt pattern that fit my blaster fine but the aluminum wheels didnt fit them because i guess theyre just for steel wheels (they have bumps to center the wheel). anyway the honda had widening hubs that i wanted. my hub fit on the honda fine. but when i got home the honda hub needed to be filed down to fit my axle. like a 16th of an inch circumference and thin out every single spline. REALLY HONDA?!?! REALLY?!?!?!?!

whatever. i got them on so now i have itp holeshots. going riding this weekend to test them out