i blew up my blaster and the piston busted in there. ive taken the top end apart (thanks blaster freak for the thread) but how do i clean out all the shreds of metal in there? i can get out the cpl bigger peices but the little shreds idk? and will they go down into the bottom end?
piston busted, how to clean it out?
- Thread starter joe41
- Start date
if you have metal transfer onto the sleeve, youll have to use Muriatic Acid. dangerous stuff and require some precautions.
if you have metal parts all the way down into the bottom end, part the cases and re-rod the crank. Otherwise, youll be doing it again very shortly after you put it together.
if you have metal parts all the way down into the bottom end, part the cases and re-rod the crank. Otherwise, youll be doing it again very shortly after you put it together.
pull the motor and flip it upside down and spray mineral spirits in there with a sprayer of some sort. work the crank around while doin it to free up any pieces. if you don't think it's clean enough you will need to split the cases to really get in there
The pieces will go down in the bottom end.The best route which most people don't like to hear is to split the cases and make sure all of it is out.You can try to flush it with oil etc. a bunch of times but one piece can ruin your lower end and maybe more.
the chances of getting all the pieces out of the bottom, without splitting the cases are slim to none, and prolly never get it all out of the bearings, which will soon follow if not replaced while apart, but at least you'll know how to split them, WHEN not if, the bearings go
my method is to take the whole quad to the car wash turn it upside down and spend $5-10 with the nozzle in the bottom end. i rotate the crank with the nozzle on high pressure soapy wash and the nozzle in the 2 holes that oil the crank. then after doing this until i run outta quarters i use wd40 in the same way to get all the water out. Ive ran several of these with success and no crank bearing failure even though one was also full of sand.Everyone has there own way ,maybe im lucky
idk man i did the same thing i got the bigger peices out but what i couldent find i just left there and its been a year with them down there and nothing bad yet (knock on wood)
well i think im might just try pressure washing it out like nasty blasty said but i have another problem. when i was taking of the top end and i was disconnecting the clutch cable i accidently pulled out the clutch shaft? idk what its called but it goes back in it just doesnt engage the clutch and theres no resistance when i pull it. happen to anybody?
Looks like you need to split cases now. There is really not a good way to f*ck with that piece without spliting....you will get to know your blaster better though and learn to respect it more than you ever will. Especially if your like me and spend $1145 in a motor rebuild....
Get a quote from your local shop to rebuild it now.
You could just part that motor out and sell here and on Ebay the parts and buy the completely rebuilt one I have waiting to be shipped for $650.00 plus the ride to your door.
My spare motor had a similar problem when I bought it.
Its totally fresh now. It's bored 1mm over (P4), head has been shaved just .015", New wiseco rod, new clutch, new bore, new piston, new seals throughout, new crank bearings, new 1-2 shift fork. Brand new intake manifold, FMF reeds in OEM cage, shifter and kicker included. Motor is complete and ready to drop into your bike today.
You could just part that motor out and sell here and on Ebay the parts and buy the completely rebuilt one I have waiting to be shipped for $650.00 plus the ride to your door.
My spare motor had a similar problem when I bought it.
Its totally fresh now. It's bored 1mm over (P4), head has been shaved just .015", New wiseco rod, new clutch, new bore, new piston, new seals throughout, new crank bearings, new 1-2 shift fork. Brand new intake manifold, FMF reeds in OEM cage, shifter and kicker included. Motor is complete and ready to drop into your bike today.
I'm not knocking your hocking. For someone who doesn't know what they're doing around a blaster bottom end $650 is a decent price for a fresh engine.
But, the cases do not have to be split to put that part back in. The clutch cover has to come off and the clutch pressure plate to be released and the rod will retract and the shaft can be pushed back down.
But, the cases do not have to be split to put that part back in. The clutch cover has to come off and the clutch pressure plate to be released and the rod will retract and the shaft can be pushed back down.
so wait i have a power washer.. i just empty the oil out of the bike? turn it upside down? stick the nozzle in where the crank is? an just blast away?
that's my method. i make sure to get in the crank oiling holes on top the crank and the big end rod bearing also. after washing it all out way beyond what i think is clean i wd40 everything (with bike upside down to drain it all) i always add 2stroke oil in the same holes on top the crank and the rod bearing b4 assembly. LIke i said this is just the way i do it and it works for me.
This is just wrong on every account and cant believe anyone would ever tell someone that they have ever done this. Its just not what you do. At the minimum you tear the motor down and wash out the crank in a solvent take and blow it out with compressed air (and this idea sends shivers up the back of my neck). then you spin the rod on the crank and feel for vibrations. How the heck do you think that water is going to ever hit the side of the bearings to drive the fragments out from the top side of the motor ?
If you have metal shavings in the bottem end, the pressure washer is either going to push them into places they werent before or drive em in deeper. Then after you spend all this money on a bore job, gaskets and such, the crank will go out (needing replacement), potentially taking out the cylinder/head and that brand new piston you just put in.
Then youll be boring it again (lets hope you have that much room left in the cylinder if it isnt broke into pieces), buying another new piston, gaskets and such.
Why did the piston break so badly in the first place ? Have you figured that out yet ? These motors dont just bust apart. If the engine is air tight, there is spark at the right time and the fuel ratio is correct, the motor will live til the rings cant seal any longer. But they wont break apart.
But hey, it's your money. Spend it how you think works best for you.
Id talk to your parents (if your still young enough to be living with them) and discuss all your options. Take the engine (or whole bike) to a repair shop and get their opinion as well. Taking the "quick fix", hitting it with a hose and hope all your issues goes away is not the correct answer to your problems.
It may have worked for others, but I doubt you see any engine builders EVER doing that and charging someone for that repair. So why do you think it is good for you ? You dont have a broken wire that can be bandaged with a butt connector. Your motor is broke and you have metal parts down inside.
Just my $.02 worth (from a person that has spent more $$$ on half azz'd engine repairs in his life to have supported a GNC team for a year)
Trust me, OregonDunes knows what he's talking about. The pressure washing idea is a bad idea!!! I would rather spend the money, send it to Ken O'Connor, get a bottom and rebuild, +3 or +4 crank and have it ported, and then buy an exhaust. It will save you money if you send it to Ken because many builders do not take much time to redo a bottom end (case lapping and such). Ken would treat you right. He don't only work on Blaster's, but he also rides them! But like OregonDunes said, your choice, not mine. Him and I both know that we have spent more than we have wanted to and that was from half-assing something (mine was jetting).
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
I agree, it is the wise thing to do, which when building engines is ALWAYS the best thing to do.From my side, I dont like the idea of water in my crank bearings.
I was just thinking about the clutch tho, the cable has a locator tab with a hole that the cylinder bolts hold on together with the cylinder, since you have the barrel off, this bracket is not fixed, hence the clutch will not function as the bracket acts as a pivot point. From what i understand you saying, that is normal.
I was just thinking about the clutch tho, the cable has a locator tab with a hole that the cylinder bolts hold on together with the cylinder, since you have the barrel off, this bracket is not fixed, hence the clutch will not function as the bracket acts as a pivot point. From what i understand you saying, that is normal.
I agree splitting the case is a better method and at the same time I challenge the next guy who is planning on crackin the case to clean his bearings to use my method first then examine the engine to document the lack of effectiveness. The ? of how i expect to get to the bearings to clean them with 1900 psi of hot soapy water just plain luck , i try to exceed the less than 6psi of of pressure that landed them there in the first place. I watch the pressure washer irrigate the bearings from the outside towards the center of the crank. I also found that when i did end up in this predicament a large majority of particles followed the path of least resistance out the transfers and exhaust. I have been lucky and am never ashamed to share my exp. and ideas be them right or wrong. If i should in the future have a reason to believe this is ineffective i will share that also. Anyone else ever try or see something similar with bad results?
