Piston and ring tips

CHutzell

New Member
Jul 15, 2009
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I was in the shop today getting some pistons ready to install on a banshee build im doing,thought i would share this with everyone.I see alot of cylinders and pistons come in scored up and these tips will help you avoid all the scoring and make your topend last alittle longer.
The pistons i am working with are wiseco forged pistons,these are notorious for having very little if any chamfers on them.what this will do is scrape valuable oil from the cylinder walls providing no barrier between the cylinder and piston.

In this picture the piston on the left is straight out of the box from the factory how most guys will install it,the piston on the right has been modified
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These are the edges you want to chamfer
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To do this i use rubber abrasives like pictured below,this is what i would recommend using.These come in all shapes sizes and grits,if you have a dremel tool or something similar you can use these
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This should be looked at everytime you bolt your cylinder back on,a new topend or if your just doing rings this should be one thing you look at.

Ring end gap is important aswell,to check this install each ring into the top of the cylinder and use the crown side of the piston to push the ring into the bore,you want the ring square to the bore so you can get an accurate measurement using a feeler gauge,minimum end gap is about .013" excessive end gap will cause problems aswell as kill your power.
After your rings have the proper gap you want to go back and dress the end on the rings with an oil stone to break the sharp edges
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Checking this stuff and taking these steps will make a world of difference in how long your topend will last
 
good stuff colby
have some major greens !!!!!!
 
cool tip bud . i got a question for ya. i thought that the piston itself isnt supposed to touch the cylinder walls, just the rings?

and wouldnt you want the oil to scrape down into the crank area??
 
The piston is supposed to touch the cylinder walls for support. The rings only provide the sealing.
The crank gets the oil first from the incoming mix, then it gets pushed up the transfers, then compressed and burnt.
 
at 4ish thousands clearance the piston is not fully touching the cylinder :p
cool tip bud . i got a question for ya. i thought that the piston itself isnt supposed to touch the cylinder walls, just the rings?

and wouldnt you want the oil to scrape down into the crank area??
 
Yea you don't want the ring gap any tighter the .013" on a 66mm bore,I take the bore size in inches x .005. A 64mm bore would be just a hair under at .0125,more extreme applications would require a wider end gap.Wiseco rings always seem to be on the loose side but its good practice to always check the gap
 
Great info colby. I never have done that to a piston but i assure you i will start doing that in the future. Your attention to detail is astounding. Damn i am glad I sent you my motor!