Oil pump test?

Feb 8, 2016
35
2
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Kalgoorlie, WA, Australia
Hey all, I brought my 04 as a project and have not had it running, thus not sure on the engine. The previous owner just said it lost all power and just parked it up.

I'm going to do a compression test and leakdown test before I open the motor up, but is there a way to see if the oiling system works, before I consider removing it and running premix fuel.

Thanks in advance, Greg.
 
Ya drain fuel, oil won't go bad.
Remove bleeder screw from pump. It has a red fiber washer on it. Allow about two table spoons full to drain out. Make sure tank is full. Pour some oil into cyl, leave plug out for now, but cover head with rag. Remove oil line from carb, have to push ór pull that brass ring on hose (I forget, look in manual). Kick over until about tablespoon comes out. Reinstall.

Hopefully you have given this a good bath before starting any wrenching !!
 
Ya drain fuel, oil won't go bad.
Remove bleeder screw from pump. It has a red fiber washer on it. Allow about two table spoons full to drain out. Make sure tank is full. Pour some oil into cyl, leave plug out for now, but cover head with rag. Remove oil line from carb, have to push ór pull that brass ring on hose (I forget, look in manual). Kick over until about tablespoon comes out. Reinstall.

Hopefully you have given this a good bath before starting any wrenching !!
It was sprayed with degreaser and power washed about 5 times before I pulled anything apart. It was filthy!

I'll try your suggestion today. I don't know what oil is in the tank now. Is mixing different brand oils bad?
 
If you can kick it over, you will be able to remove the oil line from the carb nipple and watch the end of the oil line while you kick it over by hand. If it works (the pump) you will be able to see it "pulse" oil out the end of the oil line. Its not a huge amount, and you will have to kick it over multiple times to see it do its thing. Its just a small pulse.
 
If you can kick it over, you will be able to remove the oil line from the carb nipple and watch the end of the oil line while you kick it over by hand. If it works (the pump) you will be able to see it "pulse" oil out the end of the oil line. Its not a huge amount, and you will have to kick it over multiple times to see it do its thing. Its just a small pulse.

Pulled the oil line off the carb (from the oil pump) and kicked it over for a few minutes and no oil came out. Feels like decent compression, but I've got a compression test kit coming to get some proper numbers. Got a feeling I'll be doing an oil pump delete and running premix fuel.
 
That system needs bled. Easy procedure. Nothing wrong with an oil pump delete either. You can also just remove the gear from the pump to save some money.

You said in your first post that the previous owner said that it lost all power and then parked it. I thought it was not running from a fried top end. I'm confused.
 
Ya drain fuel, oil won't go bad.
Remove bleeder screw from pump. It has a red fiber washer on it. Allow about two table spoons full to drain out. Make sure tank is full. Pour some oil into cyl, leave plug out for now, but cover head with rag. Remove oil line from carb, have to push ór pull that brass ring on hose (I forget, look in manual). Kick over until about tablespoon comes out. Reinstall.

Hopefully you have given this a good bath before starting any wrenching !!


How do I bleed the oil system?

See above /\/\/\.
If you did drain tank it will take a bit to get air out of line to pump. Be patient, if new oil is different color it will be easy to tell when you're done.
 
You said in your first post that the previous owner said that it lost all power and then parked it. I thought it was not running from a fried top end. I'm confused.

I'm trying to do diagnostics on the bike before I pull the engine down. I know the previous owner and he get very frustrated very easily. I'm hoping the top end is ok but expecting to need to fix it. Just want to make sure everything else is working first.
 
After talking with my local Yamaha dealer, I have removed the sprocket for the oil pump and going to run premix. He has seen too many engines ruined with the injected oil system and premix costs the same and protects the engine better.
 
After talking with my local Yamaha dealer, I have removed the sprocket for the oil pump and going to run premix. He has seen too many engines ruined with the injected oil system and premix costs the same and protects the engine better.

Removing the gear is the least expensive and effective way. Doesn't cost a dime.
As for engines being ruined because of the oil injection system, that is incorrect.
Its operator error that causes that.
 
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Removing the gear is the least expensive and effective way. Doesn't cost a dime.
As for engines being ruined because of the oil injection system, that is incorrect.
Its operator error that causes that.
The way it was explained to me was the oil pump is rpm driven, and in high load, low rpm situations (bogged in gravel or sand), the engine leans out. Premix provides lubrication at all times.

I'm learning all this so not trying to make arguments!
 
As to pre mix providing lubrication at all times that is not true.

When you are off throttle, coasting down hill the only oil that gets into the crankcase is what the idle circuit supplies.

That amount is virtually non existent, certainly not enough to lubricate an engine on high rev overrun .

Also if you mix at the recommended ratio of 32:1, you are not able to run at wide open throttle for extended periods as the crankcase will starve for oil.

As the oil pump is rev driven it supplies an adequate amount of oil at around 20:1. Which keeps the bottom end fully lubricated.
 
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The way it was explained to me was the oil pump is rpm driven, and in high load, low rpm situations (bogged in gravel or sand), the engine leans out. Premix provides lubrication at all times.

I'm learning all this so not trying to make arguments!
No argument taken. I think its great your asking questions. That,s how you learn.
Like I said before, just pick one. They both work.
I just prefer the Yamaha oil injection system. It works all the time! No issues on three (3) blasters for the last ten years.

Everything from bone stock to piped,ported,high compression head, etc

Folks take it off for multiple reasons, such as...

#1 They had someone tell them, or they read on the internet how someone else had
they're engine melt down, and it was instantly blamed on the oil injection system
even though the engine had no maintenance, incorrect jetting, ignorant owner
Forgot to fill the oil tank, engine had an AIR LEAK, etc, etc.
#2 They like to run the same pre-mix in all they're toys.
#3 They want to lighten up the quad.
#4 They don't like the looks of the tank.
#4 They are putting on a larger carb that doesn't have the oil nipple (you can add a
nipple to any carb).
#5 They think it will be less things to go wrong, when you can create more issues
if you don't know what your doing. like changing the jetting after removal.
#6 etc, etc.


Bottom line ...pick a system, do it correctly, and you'll be fine.

Last but not least... always ask questions.

 
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