I bought an 03 Blaster from a guy that I've already got parts and ready to assemble a new motor because on of the main bearings was fried and the connecting rod bearing wasn't too good either. Before I blow my $300 I was wondering If there was a way to tell If the Oil Injection Failure was the cause of the engine to blow. Bore looks fine, that's why I was thinking not. If its a possibility is there a way I can test it to make sure Its still working fine?
Oil Pump Failure, Engine Seize?
- Thread starter bfd811
- Start date
There is a test to make sure the oil pump is working, it involves premixing a tank of gas and removing the carburetor end of the injection pump and measuring the output for a specified amount of time.
If the bottom end went out, it's probably an air leak. Do you ever hear this engine run?
If the bottom end went out, it's probably an air leak. Do you ever hear this engine run?
just take that hunk of junk off.. pull the brake pedal side cover off (clutch cover) and take the plastic gear off the back of the oil injection pump seal up the lines throw that piece of garbage away and premix like a real 2-stroke
^Agreed^ There are some people who say the oil injection is reliable/works well, and that they have never had a problem with it. In a perfect world, the system indeed works fine and your engine should last a long time, even with running the oil pump.
However...a broken gear, air bubble in the lines, a sudden wheelie with almost no oil in the tank, or a piece of dirt which falls in the tank during re-filling...all these things can result in a hiccup in the oil injection system that prevents sufficient oil from reaching the engine. It only has to happen once and your top end is fried.
Bottom line? I'd much rather mix my own gas as opposed to taking a chance with a mechanical oil system which can fail. I think most people have gone with a blockoff kit for good reason.
However...a broken gear, air bubble in the lines, a sudden wheelie with almost no oil in the tank, or a piece of dirt which falls in the tank during re-filling...all these things can result in a hiccup in the oil injection system that prevents sufficient oil from reaching the engine. It only has to happen once and your top end is fried.
Bottom line? I'd much rather mix my own gas as opposed to taking a chance with a mechanical oil system which can fail. I think most people have gone with a blockoff kit for good reason.
What do I need to do to get that piece of crap off of their? I saw on the DIY thread where someone just took a piece of 1/4in aluminum, traced the holes off the pump and used silicon gasket an slapped it right on. Any other lines that need to be take off/plugged or what? He said the reasons the bearings went is because he ran it too slow?.....
You don't have to pull the pump out if you don't want to. You can pull the clutch cover off and remove an outside "E" clip and punch out the roll pin. Once you do that, the delrin gear will come off the shaft and you can leave the pump right where it is.
It's not as pretty as a block-off plate but guess what? Most people put a polished aluminum plate on there and then put the pump cover back over top of it so you can't see it anyway!
It's not as pretty as a block-off plate but guess what? Most people put a polished aluminum plate on there and then put the pump cover back over top of it so you can't see it anyway!
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