Oh no, another noobie with questions!

[oldguysrule]

Hi guys..
Only had my blaster for a year.. not sure if motor has been bored or not. When I got it, I had to replace the reeds as one was missing and another was cracked. (my first experience with 2 strokes)
I was not able to get a gasket at the time so I used permatex and put it all together. It ran great... but now I noticed it idling high and from what I've been able to determine through reading here is it has an air leak. I spotted some wetness around the cage and intake boot so I pulled it and sure enough, all the permatex was gone.. also two of the reeds no longer sat flat (boysen power reeds). I went today and got new reeds and since they only had one gasket (I was going to gasket both sides but they said it wouldn't work) I also bought a new intake boot... this leads to the question:
It does not have those curved metal reed stoppers on it. Is this ok? It has been running fine till the air leak..
Also, it is running on premix (tank removed by prev owner) at 40:1 using Motul 800 and prem gas. Can I go to 32:1 without rejetting? or is that enough extra oil that it will require jetting.. or should I just leave it at 40:1?

I know you guys have probably answered these questions before, and I tried to read everything I could before posting, but I'm starting to get information overload (at 50yrs that seems to happen sooner than I remember haha)
Thanks for your patience reading my long winded post this far,,

2000 blaster
FMF Fatty with Power Core II
Premix Motul 800 40:1
Boysen Power Reeds
Stock air filter with special open lid that has outerwear built into it.

 

[Whitty21]

well, i applaud you for doing your research, first off, make or get yourself a good leakdonw tester, slikerthanyou, here on the site sells some that are very high quality, i have one myself.

Where are you at for jetting now? that would help us give you a good start, as for the metal pieces you speak of, they are just to hold the reads from opening too far and are not necessary

 

[oldguysrule]

Thanks Whitty21..
I will pull the carb bowl and get out my magnifying glass and read the # on the main jet before I put in the new reeds. The reed stoppers missing was bothering me, but now I know its ok as is. I'll post jet size and needle clip once I find out whats what..
I saw a post on how to build and use a leak tester, so I will have to give that a go as well..although it may be some time before I can get to that.

 

[Prime]

You *should* get reed stoppers, just so the reeds don't open to far, but aren't necessary.
As for premix, 32:1 is optimal, and the answer is no you won't have to rejet by switching to 32:1 premix.

Also, what size main jet are you running? You might want to check just so you aren't running too lean. (It will fry your top end)

 

[CARNZ]

boyesen reeds do not require stoppers, and actually on my last set they even recommended to not run the stoppers

 

[oldguysrule]

Thanks for the feedback guys!!
I'll get the jet # tonight when I get home and post it here. Like I said, it runs good at 40:1 but if a bit more oil will help with engine life I'm all for it.
Good info on the reed stoppers too.. I really did not want to have to buy those.
I have found many things I want to do just from reading here..like tors disonnect..
You guys are great and I really appreciate the help!!!

 

[Prime]

Thanks for the feedback guys!!
I'll get the jet # tonight when I get home and post it here. Like I said, it runs good at 40:1 but if a bit more oil will help with engine life I'm all for it.
Good info on the reed stoppers too.. I really did not want to have to buy those.
I have found many things I want to do just from reading here..like tors disonnect..
You guys are great and I really appreciate the help!!!

No problem. We are here to help.

 

[Racer51]

When you have the 2 jets out take a straight twist tie wire like the ones you see on loves of bread and clean out the passages in the jets it will make it run easier and work harder under more load for longer than it did with out issues. Most people get the block off kits because premixing is no nonsence and much more acurate and reliable with the help of a ratio rite cup. There is no performance loss with more oil at a 32:1 ratio but any more and it's a waste of money if you were to mix at a redicioulsly ratio. Cause you lose next to nothing because 32:1 is the ideal industry standard to get the most reliability and power out of any 2-stroke motor.

 

[oldguysrule]

Awesome replies! I can't wait for 5pm to get here so I can go home and get to work on it!
Thank you everybody!!!

 

[Racer51]

shure thing thats what were here for now get out and enjoy that thing when you get it done. When tuneing the carb turn the screw all the way in and put it out 1 and a half turns to 2 turns out if it dosent run right ok

 

[oldguysrule]

shure thing thats what were here for now get out and enjoy that thing when you get it done. When tuneing the carb turn the screw all the way in and put it out 1 and a half turns to 2 turns out if it dosent run right ok

Will do.. I can't wait to get home! Thank you I:I

 

[oldguysrule]

Ok,, here's the update. Removed the carb and then fought the two screws down in the slide top.. finally got them out.. needle is on 3rd clip down.
Then I removed the float bowl and between my bi-focals, my head band magnifier, and my desk mounted magnifier with a halogen bulb I managed to see the stamp on the main jet perfectly... 310 ,, I pulled the little jet out and it is 32.5 ,,
Got the new reeds installed, new intake boot, mounted the carb, reset the idle screw at 1.5 truns out, double checked everything, opened the petcock, pulled the choke and kicked.. took about 4 kicks. It was idling faster than I thought it should but I took it out for a spin through the field. When I got back in, it was idling high so I started tweaking.. Between the idle adjuster on top of the tors and the idle screw, I got it idling nicely. Ended up with only 1 turn out on the idle/air screw. Took it back out and it runs great through all the rpm ranges. Plenty of low end, and kind of scary fast up top. (scary if you're 50 and its dark out anyway, haha).
So, to put it all in one place:
Needle 3rd clip
310 main
32.5 idle
1 turn idle/air (I did try 1 3/4 and 2 turns but it got worse) Input here would be appreciated..
40:1 Motul 800 pre-mix
and it runs like a scalded dog.

Now, I say it was idling good but it was warmed up by then. I will know tomorrow how it idles on a cold start.

 

[Whitty21]

still do a leakdown before riding, even a small one can cause damage, and the reed cages are notorious for leaks

do you notice any hanging rpm's?

 

[oldguysrule]

When I first started it, it seemed like the rpms were hanging and coming down slow..when I finished tweaking, it was idling nice and when I blip the throttle, it came right back down.
I struggled with the thought that some black hi temp silicone would have been smart between the cage and the jug, but in the end I just went with the gasket..
I'll be easy on it tomorrow while checking cold start idle and see how she does through warm up. Kind of strapped for cash even for a home made leak down since I just spent $ on the parts to get it back together. If the rpms show signs of continuing to hang or high idle tendencies, I'll park it till I can get it checked out. In the meantime, I'm going to go back through the threads on leakdown testing..
Thanks for the help Whitty21!!!

 

[Whitty21]

no problem man, have some rep for using you noggin

 

[oldguysrule]

Ok, did a cold start this morning. Started on first kick with choke out. Pushed the choke in and let it idle. It idled good then died. Took some quick kicking to get it re-fired but it did and idled nice. Once it got a bit of heat in it, it showed no tendency to die. So I shot this crappy cell phone vid so you all could hear it. After the vid I took it for a spin and it runs great through all ranges/gears and when I came back in, it sat at idle very nice.
Oh, yeah, while I was at it, I disconnected the tors.. nice easy 5 min job thanks to this forum!!