I'm gonna replace my stock air filter with a no toil foam one. Its a direct OEM replacement. I'm assuming since it is a direct OEM replacement part made of similar material and same size as stock that rejetting my carb wont be necessary. Just trying to verify that. My blaster is a 2001. Completely stock, this air filter will be the only aftermarket part on the bike besides wholeshot tires. Will be running with air box lid ON. Thnks
No-Toil airfilter rejet?
- Thread starter ezkill
- Start date
STOP! Been there done that!
READ THIS FIRST....
Here is my experience with air filters on the Yamaha Blaster...
I experimented with MANY different ones...
#1 K&N
#2 No Toil
#3 Stock
#4 UNI FILTER
Uni Filter is my favorite with the stock air filter second. Any oiled foam is the best in my opinion (except for the notoil).
Please read on as I explain...
I'll pass on the K&N. The reason is because that little washer they give you that prevents the steel tube of the cover from sinking into the plastic,can get pulled out of the plastic threaded base when fitting the air filter,and can go un-noticed. This happened to my buddys blaster. That little washer made it through the carb,through the reeds,down into the crank case,and was able to bounce up into EVERY (all 4) tranfer ports and kiss the rings (in all four places) and lock them into the grooves. Instant "no compression". I was able to save the cylinder. Amazing what a "soft" 2 cent washer can do. Thank god it wasn't a "grade 8" washer. This probably wouldn't have happened if the washer was glued into place. In my opinion,they don't filter the dirt as well,so I would recommend an "outer wears" pre filter if your going to use a K&N filter. The draw back to this whole set up is the cost of the filter,and outer wears pre-filter. Your talking around $60 + In my opinion that ridiculous. I can get three (3) INCREDIBLE
Uni-filters for that!
I thought the Notoil filter was a good concept untill I noticed that it was choking off the air do to its thick filtering oil. I had to go down 3 to 4 jet sizes to compensate for the loss in air flow. I lost power because of this stupid air filter.Thats ridiculous. I thought that maybe I put too much of they're oil (actually a parafin mix) on the filter,so I tried they're "spray",but this also did not fix the problem,So I tried they're "Non-alcohol" based spray and liquid,and still was in the same boat. No thanks Never again. Neat concept,but it didn't work for me. I tried more than half a dozen times to make it work. ..Same results. I shouldn't have to go down on my main jet after changing the air filter. Go figure.
As for the stock filter...WORKS GREAT! It has that fine "Hair" on the outside to help catch the fine stuff. Yamaha used this style for a reason. IT WORKS! and IT BREATHS WELL! The reasons I like the Uni filter over the stock one,is because its "RED",and I can see how dirty it is,...its a "Two stage" filter ...it has an "inny" and a "outy" layer,and the glued seams hold up to every solvent I've thrown at it,even though most of the time I use the "Uni Filter" cleaner.
Hope this helps you out. Notice I didn't just say "Uni Filter" as my answer? Those kind of answers SUCK! I just explain "Why".
I hope this helps you out in your decision making.
I would get a UNIFILTER. The notoil is not what its cracked up to be. Its not the filter,its the sticky,waxy,material that you use on the filter.
READ THIS FIRST....
Here is my experience with air filters on the Yamaha Blaster...
I experimented with MANY different ones...
#1 K&N
#2 No Toil
#3 Stock
#4 UNI FILTER
Uni Filter is my favorite with the stock air filter second. Any oiled foam is the best in my opinion (except for the notoil).
Please read on as I explain...
I'll pass on the K&N. The reason is because that little washer they give you that prevents the steel tube of the cover from sinking into the plastic,can get pulled out of the plastic threaded base when fitting the air filter,and can go un-noticed. This happened to my buddys blaster. That little washer made it through the carb,through the reeds,down into the crank case,and was able to bounce up into EVERY (all 4) tranfer ports and kiss the rings (in all four places) and lock them into the grooves. Instant "no compression". I was able to save the cylinder. Amazing what a "soft" 2 cent washer can do. Thank god it wasn't a "grade 8" washer. This probably wouldn't have happened if the washer was glued into place. In my opinion,they don't filter the dirt as well,so I would recommend an "outer wears" pre filter if your going to use a K&N filter. The draw back to this whole set up is the cost of the filter,and outer wears pre-filter. Your talking around $60 + In my opinion that ridiculous. I can get three (3) INCREDIBLE
Uni-filters for that!
I thought the Notoil filter was a good concept untill I noticed that it was choking off the air do to its thick filtering oil. I had to go down 3 to 4 jet sizes to compensate for the loss in air flow. I lost power because of this stupid air filter.Thats ridiculous. I thought that maybe I put too much of they're oil (actually a parafin mix) on the filter,so I tried they're "spray",but this also did not fix the problem,So I tried they're "Non-alcohol" based spray and liquid,and still was in the same boat. No thanks Never again. Neat concept,but it didn't work for me. I tried more than half a dozen times to make it work. ..Same results. I shouldn't have to go down on my main jet after changing the air filter. Go figure.
As for the stock filter...WORKS GREAT! It has that fine "Hair" on the outside to help catch the fine stuff. Yamaha used this style for a reason. IT WORKS! and IT BREATHS WELL! The reasons I like the Uni filter over the stock one,is because its "RED",and I can see how dirty it is,...its a "Two stage" filter ...it has an "inny" and a "outy" layer,and the glued seams hold up to every solvent I've thrown at it,even though most of the time I use the "Uni Filter" cleaner.
Hope this helps you out. Notice I didn't just say "Uni Filter" as my answer? Those kind of answers SUCK! I just explain "Why".
I hope this helps you out in your decision making.
I would get a UNIFILTER. The notoil is not what its cracked up to be. Its not the filter,its the sticky,waxy,material that you use on the filter.
Any change in breathing should be confirmed by a plug chop,
Here we go again.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Here we go again.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
No I have not. I believe that it would be just fine,because maxima uses a filter "oil" not a sticky,viscous wax like notoil does.
