No start plus a couple other problems

hawks2011

New Member
Mar 17, 2011
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Okay so to give a little back story i was given this four wheeler for free. So even if its going to take a few hundred dollars to get it running correctly im probably down for that, i just need a few suggestions. Now i work on cars and have attended tech school so i sort of know what im doing its just that the systems on the ATV are kind of foreign to me. Back to the four wheeler in question, it is a 93 blaster when it was given to me i was told it had no spark and that is why it didnt run well it sat a while (almost 2 years) before i got any ambition to try and fix it and when i did it was simply a crossed wire preventing the spark so thinking i had the problem licked i tried to fire it up with no luck, i then assumed i had a weak spark so i cleaned the inside of the flywheel (magnets) with some emery cloth until they were shiny and clean as a whistle and replaced the coil plug and plug cap still have spark still no start i measured compression and read about 75 psi is this low for this i know a car would probably run (at least a standard compression engine) although it would be a little low and if this is low what would you guys recommend rings and hone like on a car or is there something im missing? also i tried pulling it in gear behind another ATV with no luck but i noticed at that point that the clutch doesnt seem to do much to disengage the engine from the tranny and it doesnt seem to want to shift while moving and a stand still it seems to shift fine (maybe a little hard to move the shift rod) <BR> so if you dont want to read all that my questions are why cant i shift while moving and is 75 psi too little compression and if so how do i fix it... rings?

Sorry if I simply reiterated other peoples questions that I'd like to thank you in advance for any help you can offer
 
compression is low. hone the cyclinder and put new rings in it. download the repair manual from the general support section. it wll help you out.
 
thanks i will definitely do that ... is there some reason i shouldn't hone the cylinder my self i mean i have a drawer full of hones and other engine tools and also does anybody have anything to add about the shifting problem
 
Okay so to give a little back story i was given this four wheeler for free. So even if its going to take a few hundred dollars to get it running correctly im probably down for that, i just need a few suggestions. Now i work on cars and have attended tech school so i sort of know what im doing its just that the systems on the ATV are kind of foreign to me. Back to the four wheeler in question, it is a 93 blaster when it was given to me i was told it had no spark and that is why it didnt run well it sat a while (almost 2 years) before i got any ambition to try and fix it and when i did it was simply a crossed wire preventing the spark so thinking i had the problem licked i tried to fire it up with no luck, i then assumed i had a weak spark so i cleaned the inside of the flywheel (magnets) with some emery cloth until they were shiny and clean as a whistle and replaced the coil plug and plug cap still have spark still no start i measured compression and read about 75 psi is this low for this i know a car would probably run (at least a standard compression engine) although it would be a little low and if this is low what would you guys recommend rings and hone like on a car or is there something im missing? also i tried pulling it in gear behind another ATV with no luck but i noticed at that point that the clutch doesnt seem to do much to disengage the engine from the tranny and it doesnt seem to want to shift while moving and a stand still it seems to shift fine (maybe a little hard to move the shift rod) <BR> so if you dont want to read all that my questions are why cant i shift while moving and is 75 psi too little compression and if so how do i fix it... rings?

Sorry if I simply reiterated other peoples questions that I'd like to thank you in advance for any help you can offer

Has this quad just been sitting around? If so, keep in mind that to do the compression test you need to hold the throttle wide open to allow air flow into the engine. Also, if it has been sitting around and it has a FILTHY filter, take the filter off and kick it over with the throttle open and take the compression reading. Probably stuff you already know, but important to keep in mind.

Compression varies depending on who you talk to, but generally if you are below 110psi(or around there) it's time for a rebuild. Ideal compression is 120-140psi.

If you still have no spark, it might just be a bad CDI box. There are numerous places to get replacement ones. Look at the plug boot too as it actually just slides on to the wire. The part that plugs to the top of the plug is just a rubber housing with an extension from the wire....you can pull it right off the wire, so check and make sure it's connected. Other things to check are the kill switch wiring on the left handlebars, and on/off switch.

While you are working on it, replace the filter if it is dirty. Uni filters are cheap and easy replacements. You will have to oil them(I use PJ1 spray oil), but they flow some more air as well. An always important thing once you gain spark is to take the carb apart and clean it. If it has been sitting for a while, they get gummed up like no other. It's nothing complex and easy to take apart.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-clean-carb-36600/

I wouldn't recommend pulling it. If it has no spark, it's pointless to do anyways. Plus buying it as a "junker", I wouldn't be surprised if it needs a rebuild(hopefully not). It could prove dangerous because when careless owners just ride them without checking compression, they tend to get more piston slap from the cylinder to piston tolerances and the piston skirts break off and can get down in the crankcase........a good reason not to try to pull start a quad that doesn't want to start on what you have described so far as low compression. On the plus side, if it's just a top end that needs rebuilt, with Blasters, it's dirt cheap.....send it out, get the cylinder bored to oversized spec, and buy and oversized piston/top end gaskets, and reassemble yourself. Shouldn't cost much over $100 to do if you have a good local machine shop.
 
thanks i will definitely do that ... is there some reason i shouldn't hone the cylinder my self i mean i have a drawer full of hones and other engine tools and also does anybody have anything to add about the shifting problem

You will probably will have to bore to the next size. Not saying you can't mic it and see the tolerances and replace it with a new set of rings, but for the work involved and considering it's origins, I personally would just bore it 0.020 over and get an oversized Wiseco forged piston. But that's just me. I:I
 
99LRD is right about the bump starting a quad with no history, just a bad idea.

Don't go arbitrarily contacting machine shops talking about a bore just yet... you need to do some diagnostic work first. The first thing to do is disassemble and completely clean the carburetor and find the source of the ignition trouble. No matter what internal engine work you do, you want it to fire up straight away when you go to start it. You don't want it kicking over 1,000 times before break-in, you want it to start second kick after a rebuild and go ahead and heat cycle that top end.

Once you've got fuel and fire, if the compression is still too low (and I do mean still, if the engine is completely dry the rings don't have any oil on them they can chatter and the compression will be artificially low) then you can remove the top end and measure the current bore size, cylinder taper and out of round, and piston to cylinder clearance. Once you've determined it's either still on spec or out of spec, you'll know the next step.

If the top end is in spec and just needs rings you can hone it yourself using a 3 stone hone. Don't go at it with a ball hone, they beat up the ports and can mush metal out into the bore instead of honing the glaze off...

If the top end is out of spec, you can source a local machine shop who can accurately bore it the next overbore, .25mm or .010" (if that will take the top end back to not out of round or tapered)

Unless you are getting porting work done, mailing the top end to an engine builder for a simple overbore will probably cost you a bunch in unneeded S&H as long as you trust the local machine shop. I sent a top end to Ken O'Connor to get an overbore but only because the cylinder was WAY tapered and in order to correct it, it would have to be bored to the last overbore 68.25mm. I don't not trust the local machine shop to do the work but if they messed it up, there was no sleeve left to "fix it".

Make sure if you are going to get it bored, you have the machine shop measure it (if you don't have/don't trust your bore measurements) and then order the next oversize piston which will clean up the damage and once the piston arrives, drop it off for the bore. Make sure they have the piston in hand to bore the cylinder to match. Don't trust they're going to bore it to the right size blind and that the piston will simply fit it because the numbers (stated piston size) are the same... tolerances in a blaster engine are actually fairly tight and sometimes machine shops are used to dealing with a certain type of piston or engine where the numbers mean one thing and the blaster numbers mean another. It's just a better bet to have the piston in hand before they go cutting on your cylinder.
 
Might want to take the clutch apart and soak overnight in oil. Sounds like the plates are sticking a bit from sitting so long. I picked one up was doing same thing from sitting so long. Clean out the carb real good and make sure if oil system is eliminated that it is done correctly like electrical part and oil block offs Does it have a tors on it still? Did it sit outside? was it rusted bad?