no spark (blaster parked for 10 years) update

skelator

New Member
Aug 24, 2012
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hey guys i started working on it today and got it ready to be fired up. i did a compression check and im gonna need a new bore job it only blew 100 psi. but thats an easy fix.

im not getting any spark at all from the plug. i actually have a spare harness and several coils on hand. can anyone point me in the right direction on fixing this?

pretend i just got the thing and know nothing about it as ive been away from the machine for 10 years.


also my damn pipe was packed solid with mouse nestX( i got it all cleaned out. i blew some air in the pipe and it seems the pipes rotted i could see some water comming from apparently what is pin holes in the pipe. i may cut out the rot and weld in a patch or just get a new pipe when i get her running.
 
Grounding of the wires present a problem when being parked up for a while, remove and clean ground points.

Excercise and spray all electrical joints with an electrical parts cleaner, not WD40.

Don't try to run that pipe the way it is, the breathing will be affected.

Unless you are an excellent welder with a good machine, dont try to weld the pipe.
 
Ditto, what Blaaster says.

Common issues, for sitting a long time, is corrision, grounding.

I would remove the tank , so it's easier to get to the coil and take the wires off, bolts too, and clean them. i prefer some ruffer sand paper to clean up the contacts.

You usually and carefully pull back the connection prongs, that have the rubber covers, and I like to use a dremel with the wire brush on them, they are smaller and harder to sand with sand paper.

You also will want to take the front cover off and any connection wire from the coil onforward.

disconnect and clean them up, the sell electric contact cleaner, and that works well also.

Some of the connectors are aluminuim and they get like this white type haze on them and they needs to be removed and cleaned off of the connectors.

there is also a ground usually connected to the 12volt regulator box, that likely needs to be cleaned also.

Also, if you just disconnect the ign / key. it by-passes that, sometimes, they get corroided in the inside of where the key goes in, buyt impossible to get too. and the electric spray, works good 4 that area too.

now, you might also take apart / split the on / off switch, spray that electric cleaner in there, sometimes it shorts out there too.

other than running a volt meter, and checking to see where it is grounding out at, thats what I would do.

I have done both ways and feel, why not clean and check them all, dont hurt and even if its not the one, that needs it, they are all cleaned up, and you wont have to worry or toss it around in your head if you got them all.


Sporty
 
i'd start by pulling the flywheel and seeing what rust/corrosion may have developed in there possibly effecting the ignition coil ?
and give the wires a good looking, if mice were present, they're notorious wire insulation chewers
 
thanks for the tips guys i really didnt have much time to dive into the wiring. i didnt see anything chomped on. ill check the grounding and pull the flywheel to see if its all rusted up or not.


about the pipe for now im gonna cut it up and see how bad the rust is. i suspect the rusted area is only on one side as it was prolly just soaked with piss for ten years. fixing it will not be a problem as im a metal worker by trade. when i get it running again im sure ill get back into it and end up getting a new pipe anyway knowing me lol im sure prolly more upgrades too
 
you should have no problem cutting/welding the pipe,
there have been guys cut them open to remove the constrictive cast piece in there and reweld them shut
 
i assume the restrictive piece is in the real narrow section?

i believe it's in the section right above the bend where it starts to widen
at least thats where it sounded like it was when it broke loose in my old stock pipe, caused me jetting headaches for weeks, as it would block and unblock flow as it flopped around, i finally found it was broke when i stood it on it's ass to add a belly plate and heard it clunking around in there
 
One thing i learned when i bought my GS1150,it was 30 years old,go through all the maintenace like it needed 30 years of maintenance,that means,every electrical connection,EVERYWHERE.And all nuts and bolts checked,all required maintenence that was absent for so many years.
I once had a tube amp given to me in non working condition that was built in 1965,i cleaned all the electrical components and it worked like new,wish i kept it,it is worth 2 times what i sold it for.
If anything is new to you always go thru everything,have that baseline to go from in the future.Good luck with your find,i know i love my blaster dearly.This is the place to be ,these guys here are awesome with years of knowledge.Prolly just a bad ground or the lie,liek these guys say,if not you cn find a coil here prolly for a song.