nitro r/c
- Thread starter blasterboy32
- Start date
ok so which do i need to adjust or both? like i said i havnt taken a good look at it. ill check tomorrow and see if i can find all these screws and get them adjusted properly and report back with the results
Hey, I used to be fairly active on the forums at Traxxas.com, and I own a Traxxas T-Maxx 3.3, which is fairly similar to the Rusty. If you ever need help with something, you can PM me if you want to. For the upper A-arm, don't get aluminum. There's a company called RPM that makes really well-made A-arms, bumpers, skid plates, etc. that are a rubber-like plastic, so instead of bending like aluminum will do, they will flex and then go right back.
I would link you to a great tuning guide by one of the very experienced guys on the forum there, Nitronaught, but the website seems to be down right now, I'll try to remember to come back and do that. I wrote it out by myself a few minutes ago, but it cleared out and I really don't feel like re-typing that, lol.
I would link you to a great tuning guide by one of the very experienced guys on the forum there, Nitronaught, but the website seems to be down right now, I'll try to remember to come back and do that. I wrote it out by myself a few minutes ago, but it cleared out and I really don't feel like re-typing that, lol.
Hell, I'll give it another go typing it out.
There's essentially three adjustments on your carb. 1) The High speed needle (HSN). This is the one that's sticking straight up, and controls the amount of fuel entering the carb at all times. 2) The low speed needle (LSN). This is the little screw on the end of the carb's bellows, which controls the amount of mixture (fuel and air) entering the carb at low speeds. 3) The Idle set screw (ISS). this one is a small silver screw on the opposite side of the carb as the LSN. It controls the amount of air entering through the air filter. If you pull off the air filter, you will realize the little gap on the left of the slide, that screw adjusts that gap.
Here's how to tune it, hopefully I get everything you need to know. First, set all of your needles to factory. The HSN is 4 turns out from closed, and the LSN is supposed to be flush with the part that it screws into, which is around 1.75-2 turns out from closed. To set your air gap, remove the air filter, and look down the throat of the carb. The gap is supposed to be .7-1mm, or about the thickness of a paperclip. adjust so that the gap is set correctly. Make sure you put the air filter back on, that might not be a good thing if you don't. Next, to set the HSN. Do a few full throttle laps to clear out the carb. Turn in the HSN 1/8th turn at a time until the engine starts cutting out at high RPM, then richen 1/4 turn. After you do around 3/4 to full turn, and still don't have the power that there should be, then look at the LSN. To check the LSN, pinch the fuel line an inch or so from the carb, and count how long it takes for it to shut off. It should run for 3-4 seconds, rev up, then die. More than 4 seconds: lean out the LSN, less than 3 seconds: richen, do that until you're inside that 3-4 second area, then go back to the HSN. These engines should have more than enough power to pick up the front wheels from a dead stop when it's tuned right and everything is in working order.
Some signs of proper tuning: a steady stream of lightly blue tinted smoke, an engine temp of between 210-275 degrees. Getting an infrared temp gauge is a very good investment for this hobby.
Welcome to the hobby
, you'll realize that it's a money pit, just like quads, except a lot smaller and louder. These engines get to 30,000 RPM!!
There's essentially three adjustments on your carb. 1) The High speed needle (HSN). This is the one that's sticking straight up, and controls the amount of fuel entering the carb at all times. 2) The low speed needle (LSN). This is the little screw on the end of the carb's bellows, which controls the amount of mixture (fuel and air) entering the carb at low speeds. 3) The Idle set screw (ISS). this one is a small silver screw on the opposite side of the carb as the LSN. It controls the amount of air entering through the air filter. If you pull off the air filter, you will realize the little gap on the left of the slide, that screw adjusts that gap.
Here's how to tune it, hopefully I get everything you need to know. First, set all of your needles to factory. The HSN is 4 turns out from closed, and the LSN is supposed to be flush with the part that it screws into, which is around 1.75-2 turns out from closed. To set your air gap, remove the air filter, and look down the throat of the carb. The gap is supposed to be .7-1mm, or about the thickness of a paperclip. adjust so that the gap is set correctly. Make sure you put the air filter back on, that might not be a good thing if you don't. Next, to set the HSN. Do a few full throttle laps to clear out the carb. Turn in the HSN 1/8th turn at a time until the engine starts cutting out at high RPM, then richen 1/4 turn. After you do around 3/4 to full turn, and still don't have the power that there should be, then look at the LSN. To check the LSN, pinch the fuel line an inch or so from the carb, and count how long it takes for it to shut off. It should run for 3-4 seconds, rev up, then die. More than 4 seconds: lean out the LSN, less than 3 seconds: richen, do that until you're inside that 3-4 second area, then go back to the HSN. These engines should have more than enough power to pick up the front wheels from a dead stop when it's tuned right and everything is in working order.
Some signs of proper tuning: a steady stream of lightly blue tinted smoke, an engine temp of between 210-275 degrees. Getting an infrared temp gauge is a very good investment for this hobby.
Welcome to the hobby
, you'll realize that it's a money pit, just like quads, except a lot smaller and louder. These engines get to 30,000 RPM!!
Hell, I'll give it another go typing it out.
There's essentially three adjustments on your carb. 1) The High speed needle (HSN). This is the one that's sticking straight up, and controls the amount of fuel entering the carb at all times. 2) The low speed needle (LSN). This is the little screw on the end of the carb's bellows, which controls the amount of mixture (fuel and air) entering the carb at low speeds. 3) The Idle set screw (ISS). this one is a small silver screw on the opposite side of the carb as the LSN. It controls the amount of air entering through the air filter. If you pull off the air filter, you will realize the little gap on the left of the slide, that screw adjusts that gap.
Here's how to tune it, hopefully I get everything you need to know. First, set all of your needles to factory. The HSN is 4 turns out from closed, and the LSN is supposed to be flush with the part that it screws into, which is around 1.75-2 turns out from closed. To set your air gap, remove the air filter, and look down the throat of the carb. The gap is supposed to be .7-1mm, or about the thickness of a paperclip. adjust so that the gap is set correctly. Make sure you put the air filter back on, that might not be a good thing if you don't. Next, to set the HSN. Do a few full throttle laps to clear out the carb. Turn in the HSN 1/8th turn at a time until the engine starts cutting out at high RPM, then richen 1/4 turn. After you do around 3/4 to full turn, and still don't have the power that there should be, then look at the LSN. To check the LSN, pinch the fuel line an inch or so from the carb, and count how long it takes for it to shut off. It should run for 3-4 seconds, rev up, then die. More than 4 seconds: lean out the LSN, less than 3 seconds: richen, do that until you're inside that 3-4 second area, then go back to the HSN. These engines should have more than enough power to pick up the front wheels from a dead stop when it's tuned right and everything is in working order.
Some signs of proper tuning: a steady stream of lightly blue tinted smoke, an engine temp of between 210-275 degrees. Getting an infrared temp gauge is a very good investment for this hobby.
Welcome to the hobby
that is a huge help. it must not be tuned right right now bc it can barely lift the front wheels up at anytime. ill let you know if i have anymore questions. thanks
along with that, ^^^^^ never adjust the needles when the motor is off. the engines are very finiquy, and sometimes will never start if u touch them when its off. happened to me.
tuning:
always adjust the high speed first, then the low speed, then the idle.
highspeed:
start it up, run it down the street a bunch of times. bring it in and check the temp.
if u dont have a temp gun, u can spit on the engine head, and if it boils away in less then 3 seconds, ur running lean and hot. richen the needles 1/4-1/2 turn.
start it up again and start running down the street. try and make it past 1/2 throttle, cause thats where the high speed starts playing a toll. by tis point, it should be bogging and booobling and maybe clear out. if that happends, then turn the high speed 1/4 turns to the right (leaner) run it agin down the street. and keep doing the samething until it reaches the max speed, and has no stutter or anything from 1/2 throttle to full throttle. if u make it too lean, it will sound like its bogging out and stuttering. kinda like its rich. if that happneds, turn the high speed needle to the left (richen) 1/2 turn. run up and down the street at 1/2-full and see how it goes and preforms. u dont want to be on the verge of perfect, cause conditions change everyday, and u dont want have to do this everyday. once the high speed is set, bring it in and check the temp. rember if it boils away in less then 3 seconds its too hot and too lean. adjust accordingly.
low speed:
bring the rc to a dead stop. now pull the throttle in from nutral to 1/2 or full throttle really quickly. the engine should stutter and bog till it reaches 1/2 throttle and the high speed takes over. bring it in and locate the low speed speed. turn it 1/4 turn to the right (lean). keep doing this processs exactly like the high speed needle. once it starts to studder and maybe even stall out, back it out 1/2 turn.
idle:
now at this point, the idle should be pretty high because the low speed effects it.
adjust the idle as low as possible, but not too low so that it stalls out, and not too high where it it trying to inch foward.
after u do all that, check temp again. and adjust accordinly.
the low speed should never really change. the high speed will change often from day to day experience.
make sure u shut it down and let it cool after every tank of fuel.
now for the alunium parts:
dont get chassie
dont get a arms
tuning:
always adjust the high speed first, then the low speed, then the idle.
highspeed:
start it up, run it down the street a bunch of times. bring it in and check the temp.
if u dont have a temp gun, u can spit on the engine head, and if it boils away in less then 3 seconds, ur running lean and hot. richen the needles 1/4-1/2 turn.
start it up again and start running down the street. try and make it past 1/2 throttle, cause thats where the high speed starts playing a toll. by tis point, it should be bogging and booobling and maybe clear out. if that happends, then turn the high speed 1/4 turns to the right (leaner) run it agin down the street. and keep doing the samething until it reaches the max speed, and has no stutter or anything from 1/2 throttle to full throttle. if u make it too lean, it will sound like its bogging out and stuttering. kinda like its rich. if that happneds, turn the high speed needle to the left (richen) 1/2 turn. run up and down the street at 1/2-full and see how it goes and preforms. u dont want to be on the verge of perfect, cause conditions change everyday, and u dont want have to do this everyday. once the high speed is set, bring it in and check the temp. rember if it boils away in less then 3 seconds its too hot and too lean. adjust accordingly.
low speed:
bring the rc to a dead stop. now pull the throttle in from nutral to 1/2 or full throttle really quickly. the engine should stutter and bog till it reaches 1/2 throttle and the high speed takes over. bring it in and locate the low speed speed. turn it 1/4 turn to the right (lean). keep doing this processs exactly like the high speed needle. once it starts to studder and maybe even stall out, back it out 1/2 turn.
idle:
now at this point, the idle should be pretty high because the low speed effects it.
adjust the idle as low as possible, but not too low so that it stalls out, and not too high where it it trying to inch foward.
after u do all that, check temp again. and adjust accordinly.
the low speed should never really change. the high speed will change often from day to day experience.
make sure u shut it down and let it cool after every tank of fuel.
now for the alunium parts:
dont get chassie
dont get a arms
ok thanks q10. i think i understand it all. im gonna go try all this in a little bit. it already has the rpm a arms instead of aluminum and its not the stock chassis. it looks like some type of carbon fiber maybe? not sure exactly
did i screw up my transmission or clutch or something. i was driving it trying to tune it and it just stopped moving. it still runs and revs but wont move. when i spin the tires the gears wont spin with them and when i spin the gear coming out of the motor the wheels dont sppin heres two vids to show it.
MOV081.mp4 video by blasterboy32 - Photobucket
MOV080.mp4 video by blasterboy32 - Photobucket
MOV081.mp4 video by blasterboy32 - Photobucket
MOV080.mp4 video by blasterboy32 - Photobucket
on that big gear thats spinning, tighten that nut. hold the gear with ur hand and tunrn it clockwise. also check the drive shafts. one could have broken.
ok ill go try to tighten that gear and the drive shaft isnt broken. so if its not that gear does that mean its one of the gears in the transmission?
yes, check the gear mesh between the clutch and spur gear too.
not u got me going with this.... ima fix mine now
I:I lol
both the small and big gear move together they just wont move the driveshaft. and i tried tightening the gear. so should i take the transmission off and open it up and see if there is something obvious wrong?
check the drive shafts before u do. one could be broken and would do the same thing
from that vid, it looks like its stock alumi. my stampede had basically the same one.
its not aluminum. it has this checkerboard type pattern on it and so do the shock towers. i didnt get it tuned at all yet. i just got back from getting the gear for the transmission it destroyed the middle one. the guy at the hobby store assured me that the one he gave me would work well it didnt. so i took one out of an extra transmission i had so now i need to get the RIGHT replacement for that. are there any online storesto order parts from? the store i went to has good prices but i dont think the people that work there know what theyre doing
Before you go pull out your trans and look for something in there, check your slipper clutch. It's attached to the back of the spur gear (the big one attached to the trans) and it basically consists of three friction plates against a steel plate, that is designed to slip if, for example, the wheels are spinning and are forced to stop when you hit the ground, instead of something breaking, that takes the load. Try tightening that up. Put a wrench or nut driver on the nut at the end of the gear, and then there should be a shaft sticking out of the other end of the trans with a hole in it, put an allen inside that. Tighten it up all of the way, then back off 1/4 turn. You might be fine there, just way easier than opening up your trans case.
