new top end. how do u break the motor in properly?

blasterboy 2000

New Member
Sep 2, 2011
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i am putting together my 2000 blaster Wednesday. and i was wondering how u properly break in a new top end? never put a new top end in one and i dont rlly know much about breaking it in. just want to make sure i do it right. i know how to put it together. but dont know how to break it in.
 
leakdown test it first, should hold 5-7 lbs for no less than 5 minutes
then 3 - 5 heat cycles, lightly revving it no further than half throttle till completely warm and you can't hold your bare hand on the head, then completely cool, repeat 3-5 times, re-torque all head, base and intake bolts after last cool down
adjust airscrew till it idles the highest, adjust actual idle screw to normal rpm's, then plug chops to confirm jetting, adjust if needed.
some like to do a tank or 2 of fuel without any long wide open throttle runs
then grip it and rip it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
leakdown test it first, should hold 5-7 lbs for no less than 5 minutes
then 3 - 5 heat cycles, lightly revving it no further than half throttle till completely warm and you can't hold your bare hand on the head, then completely cool, repeat 3-5 times, re-torque all head, base and intake bolts after last cool down
adjust airscrew till it idles the highest, adjust actual idle screw to normal rpm's, then plug chops to confirm jetting, adjust if needed.
some like to do a tank or 2 of fuel without any long wide open throttle runs
then grip it and rip it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i dont have a leak down tester.:/
 
like $30 from slickerthanyou on here, should be in every 2 stroke owners tool box, the only way to see if it's leakproof. period.
air leaks = boom ....$200+ down the drain
$30 to find and fix any airleaks
piece of mind and good running, long lasting 2 stroke......priceless !!!!!!
 
like $30 from slickerthanyou on here, should be in every 2 stroke owners tool box, the only way to see if it's leakproof. period.
air leaks = boom ....$200+ down the drain
$30 to find and fix any airleaks
piece of mind and good running, long lasting 2 stroke......priceless !!!!!!

im not putting it together alone my uncle is helping me and he has a cr 250 a kx 80. and he has had banshees and blasters for a long time i will ask him if he has one and if he dont i will buy one.
 
our intakes ...being only 4 bolt are common leak places, and be sure to use a factory yamaha base gasket, the green vito's/k&s paper ones will definately leak
 
our intakes ...being only 4 bolt are common leak places, and be sure to use a factory yamaha base gasket, the green vito's/k&s paper ones will definately leak

i know they do suck before it blew up i replaced the clutch case gasket cause it had one of those on it and i replaced it with one from yamaha and it worked beautiful. and replaced the oil and it shifted ten times better it was so smooth.
 
Air is good for fuel mixture but also bad for 2 stroke motors. Too much air meens BOOM if the motor is leaking. Make sure you do the heat cycles and retorque. My wife thought I was kidding about heat cycles till she saw how much the bolts needed to be retorqued after all the heat cycles were done.
 
everyone has their ways of break in, i let it heat cycle twice to get warm and then i took it out and rode it for 4 hrs, no wot runs at the start of the day just easy runs around the trails and having fun through all the gears, my philosophy is break it in like ur going to ride it, it will help seet ur rings properly. just dont beat the sh*t out of it right out the gate obviously.
 
Air is good for fuel mixture but also bad for 2 stroke motors. Too much air meens BOOM if the motor is leaking. Make sure you do the heat cycles and retorque. My wife thought I was kidding about heat cycles till she saw how much the bolts needed to be retorqued after all the heat cycles were done.

lmbo. well know i know to do it for sure.............. i wont forget. but my uncle had rebuilt many many many 2 strokes all his buddys that blow theres up he redoes them for them and the run goldent after hes done.
 
everyone has their ways of break in, i let it heat cycle twice to get warm and then i took it out and rode it for 4 hrs, no wot runs at the start of the day just easy runs around the trails and having fun through all the gears, my philosophy is break it in like ur going to ride it, it will help seet ur rings properly. just dont beat the sh*t out of it right out the gate obviously.

i know not to beat it up i wont even beat it up one its broke in my blaster is my baby i saved up all summer and worked my a** of to get it. i would never to anything to blow it up agien i am for sure going to make sure its not going to blow i got a oil block off kit and premix it now to be save running it not to rich but some what rich just so i dont blow it up from being lean. makeing sure it smokes befor i ride it if it dont smoke i wont touch it till i drain the gas and put more oil in the mixture.
 
a properly jetted bike shouldnt smoke after warmed up
and adding oil leans the air/fuel mix, do not add oil till it smokes, thats more oil = less fuel, and fuel is what keeps the cylinder cool,
32:1 mix only, and do plug chops to confirm jetting. period
 
a properly jetted bike shouldnt smoke after warmed up
and adding oil leans the air/fuel mix, do not add oil till it smokes, thats more oil = less fuel, and fuel is what keeps the cylinder cool,
32:1 mix only, and do plug chops to confirm jetting. period

the jetting should be right on it had the stock jeting on it one i blew it up. and it had the full fmf on it and stuff but with the fmf and the bore and reeds it should be 2 sizes up then the stock but thats what i was told by my local yamaha shop. and i had it running 40:1. but i will run 32:1 if it is beter and makes me feel safe about not blowing it up.
 
an fmf should require at least a 270 jet, don't listen to your local yami shop, they are in the parts business, and would luv nuthin more but sale you more parts
a plug chop is the only way to jet a bike, not the dealer, nor uncles, or my word of mouth

here ya go kiddo, read, re-read, re-read again, and learn..........
you have till wednesday to give me a book report on these 3 articles !!!!!!
it's the only way to not fry sh*t

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/

http://www.blasterforum.com/searchresults.php?cx=partner-pub-9438014176008015%3A9127094460&cof=FORID%3A9&ie=UTF-8&q=leak+down+tester&sa=Search#883
 
plug chop, my advice is to mix at 32:1 and after its broke in the way u want to break it in, do a plug chop, now dont do a plug chop before u break it in, lol
stock carb? all u have is an exhaust? always jet rich to start before plug chops, always do more than one chop to make sure ur jetted right, always jet a tad on the rich side even after the chop.
 
an fmf should require at least a 270 jet, don't listen to your local yami shop, they are in the parts business, and would luv nuthin more but sale you more parts
a plug chop is the only way to jet a bike, not the dealer, nor uncles, or my word of mouth

here ya go kiddo, read, re-read, re-read again, and learn..........
you have till wednesday to give me a book report on these 3 articles !!!!!!
it's the only way to not fry sh*t

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/

http://www.blasterforum.com/searchresults.php?cx=partner-pub-9438014176008015%3A9127094460&cof=FORID%3A9&ie=UTF-8&q=leak+down+tester&sa=Search#883

thanks awk... but if u could tell me what kinda jet to set it at? i have the fmf gold fatty pipe. with a old fmf silencer. and i have boyson reeds and its bored .60 over? what would be a good jet to start with?
 
plug chop, my advice is to mix at 32:1 and after its broke in the way u want to break it in, do a plug chop, now dont do a plug chop before u break it in, lol
stock carb? all u have is an exhaust? always jet rich to start before plug chops, always do more than one chop to make sure ur jetted right, always jet a tad on the rich side even after the chop.

i do have a stock carb. i have boyson reeds and a fmf gold fatty pipe with a older style fmf silencer. and its bored .60 over.
 
i'd start at a prolly very rich 290, you'll prolly end up around 260/270
where you located....elevation ???? < thats why nobody can tell you for sure